Thoughts on a new to me P 26

[Jonathan Boright]

Happy Winter all!

I have a new to me P 26 that I bought for "$500" at the end of last summer. Yes... I know there’s no such thing as a $500 boat… so I could use some perspective from you all on the depth of the hole that I have jumped into. For context, I'm moving up from an O'Day Day Sailer... so this is my first 'big' boat and I'm coming at this without much knowledge of boats that aren't dinghies. The decision in front of me is whether to move forward with the maintenance and repair work, or to scrap it, take the loss, and find a different boat (likely with a new/different set of issues).

Here’s the boat in a nutshell:

1973 Pearson 26. Sails seem to be in reasonable shape; main (no reef points) and 130% (ish?) Genoa on a roller furling. The purchase included an outboard - Yamaha 9.9 (T9.9EXHY, circa 2000), which starts easily (electric) but then starts to sputter after 10-15 minutes of running harder (could be as simple as bad gas... or be indicative of a bigger problem).

Some history;

She was sailed on Lake Champlain (VT) for an unknown number of years until abandoned on the hard where the PO acquired it by paying back-storage fees to the yard. It hadn't been abandoned for very long (perhaps a year?) until the PO bought it and sailed it for a few more years with relatively minimal maintenance. I bought it in late August, but due to an untimely back injury, I only sailed it a few times before hauling it out for the winter. It sailed nicely, although I did notice a rudder vibration when going at speed... especially if motoring. I'm assuming the rudder post needs new bushings (which I understand is common for the P26). It certainly needs a new tiller, which was rotten at the bolts and disintegrated when I removed the duct tape holding it together (!).

I did pay someone to help winterize it for me... collectively we did kind of a half-assed job really... but at least the black and freshwater tanks are empty, some antifreeze is in the plumbing, and a tarp is over (most of) the boat aft of the mast. The hired gentleman drained the water tank by removing the thru-hull speedometer, which he claims was barely held in place by the black water tank (yikes!).

So, here's the (growing) list of work to be done before it floats again:

• Rudder/tiller work. At a minimum, replace the bushings and tiller. The surface of the rudder has been damaged (deep scrapes on one face, and a gouge in the trailing edge). Apparently, this happened when an outboard mounting bracket (no longer present) failed and the outboard, held by "the bottom 2 bolts" (PO's words) swung down and bashed the rudder. The rudder will need some minor patching and painting.

• Replace the thru-hull speedometer. Or perhaps just glass over the hole and skip the speedo? (A question for a different thread is "what electronics do I really need for this boat"? ..no nav equipment is currently working except lights).

• Keel bolts. Probably need replacement. Lifting the floor panels on the cabin sole, I've found that the tops of the keel bolts are very corroded. I have no idea about the scope of this job... assuming it involves grinding out the keel bolt heads from below and replacing them one at a time? (first-hand stories and perspectives on this task would be much appreciated)

• Replace the head. It is old, nasty, covered in black mold, and seems to slowly backfill into the bowl while underway.

• The wastewater seacock (from the 'y' in the head outflow hose) is frozen shut. I'm guessing it is old and bronze (it is very green now). I should probably ensure it opens and closes smoothly before floating it again. Replace it if not.

• Deck work. There is a soft spot in the cockpit sole, right in front of the companionway, which will need fixing. I've found videos on how this is done, but haven't done much FG work myself (yet). The balsa core adds an added level of difficulty.

There is also the to-be-expected work to be done too... like cleaning, panting the undersides, replacing running rigging, tuning standing rigging, etc, that I won't list here... I also haven't done a full check of the standing rigging. The boat was hauled out and put in its cradle without stepping the mast so I haven't seen the top of the mast up close yet.

I'll stop there. Any constructive thoughts would be appreciated... others will be tolerated ;-)

Cheers!

Jon

PS I'll try to add some photos... but I might not have sufficient permissions to do so.

Rudder damage

Keel bolts

Seacock (seized)

[Peter Trunfio]

Congratulations Jonathan.

Others may disagree with me, but I think the head discharge seacock is easy chore on this list. That is a Wilcox-Crittenden “tapered” or “cone” valve. They are bronze and very robust.

There are two nuts (the outside nut locks the inside nut) and a washer. The washer has a “flat” on the inside so it locks in place on the threaded stud.

If you remove the two nuts and the washer, you should be able to [gently] tap the cone out the other side (the bronze is very soft, so don’t whale on it).

I think what you will find is the green stuff is just oxidation on the outside of the seacock body, but the “guts” will be fine. You can also use a rag to wipe clean any residual grease inside the body of the seacock.

I take this cone out every fall and bring it home with me. I clean any residual grease off of the cone, nuts, and washer, and then soak them in vinegar overnight…this will remove any oxidation or grime.

I’ve also sprayed the seacock itself with some vinegar and hit it with small a BRONZE wire (steel will rust), just to knock off the green patina. Then rinse the seacock to neutralize the vinegar.

Then in the spring, I grease the cone, nuts, and washer, and reinstall.

We always close this valve when leaving the boat, and open it when we are on board (we only use the head to recycle beer and water).

You should not need to replace these old bronze seacocks. Unless one were to break, they will probably outlive the boat…

PMT

Peter M. Trunfio

S/V Annandale

Pearson 10M

City Island, NY

+1.917.640.6450 (c)

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[Bob Maxwell]

P26s are fairly sturdy, simple boats. They sail well for their day.  Most of the maintenance they need isn't overly intimidating. Some of your questions might require knowing where and what type of sailing you want to do, but I'll take a first pass.  Comments in [brackets] below.  Good luck!

Bob

On Mon, Jan 22, 2024 at 4:00 PM Jonathan Boright <jbor...@gmail.com> wrote:

Happy Winter all!

I have a new to me P 26 that I bought for "$500" at the end of last summer. Yes... I know there’s no such thing as a $500 boat… so I could use some perspective from you all on the depth of the hole that I have jumped into. For context, I'm moving up from an O'Day Day Sailer... so this is my first 'big' boat and I'm coming at this without much knowledge of boats that aren't dinghies. The decision in front of me is whether to move forward with the maintenance and repair work, or to scrap it, take the loss, and find a different boat (likely with a new/different set of issues).

Here’s the boat in a nutshell:

1973 Pearson 26. Sails seem to be in reasonable shape; main (no reef points) and 130% (ish?) Genoa on a roller furling. The purchase included an outboard - Yamaha 9.9 (T9.9EXHY, circa 2000), which starts easily (electric) but then starts to sputter after 10-15 minutes of running harder (could be as simple as bad gas... or be indicative of a bigger problem).

[ A common problem with newer plastic gas tanks is the design of the tank vents is now mandated by the government to reduce evaporation for emissions reasons. The reality is the vents then don't work.  The tank gets negative pressure and the motor sputters or dies. You can open the cap a little periodically to "burp" the tank, or you can modify the cap to make it vent better.  That problem could explain the behavior you noticed, but it's not the only thing that could do it.]

Some history;

She was sailed on Lake Champlain (VT) for an unknown number of years until abandoned on the hard where the PO acquired it by paying back-storage fees to the yard. It hadn't been abandoned for very long (perhaps a year?) until the PO bought it and sailed it for a few more years with relatively minimal maintenance. I bought it in late August, but due to an untimely back injury, I only sailed it a few times before hauling it out for the winter. It sailed nicely, although I did notice a rudder vibration when going at speed... especially if motoring. I'm assuming the rudder post needs new bushings (which I understand is common for the P26). It certainly needs a new tiller, which was rotten at the bolts and disintegrated when I removed the duct tape holding it together (!).

[Rudder bushings are a thing on Pearsons of this vintage. If you can feel a clunk when you wiggle the bottom of the rudder, then yes, they are probably due to be replaced. It's a job, but it's not complicated. You do need the boat high enough, or the rudder over a hole in the ground to drop the rudder out to do it.

I did pay someone to help winterize it for me... collectively we did kind of a half-assed job really... but at least the black and freshwater tanks are empty, some antifreeze is in the plumbing, and a tarp is over (most of) the boat aft of the mast. The hired gentleman drained the water tank by removing the thru-hull speedometer, which he claims was barely held in place by the black water tank (yikes!).

So, here's the (growing) list of work to be done before it floats again:

• Rudder/tiller work. At a minimum, replace the bushings and tiller. The surface of the rudder has been damaged (deep scrapes on one face, and a gouge in the trailing edge). Apparently, this happened when an outboard mounting bracket (no longer present) failed and the outboard, held by "the bottom 2 bolts" (PO's words) swung down and bashed the rudder. The rudder will need some minor patching and painting.
  

• Replace the thru-hull speedometer. Or perhaps just glass over the hole and skip the speedo? (A question for a different thread is "what electronics do I really need for this boat"? ..no nav equipment is currently working except lights).

[This one goes to where do you want to sail and what do you want to do? Obviously for day sailing where you know the area well, you don't really need any instruments.  A VHF radio can be helpful, and as long as you don't want to talk more than 5 miles or so away, a handheld will do. A depth sounder can be comforting if you're in an area of rocks and shallows. A knotmeter is nice, but you can put a free GPS app on a smartphone and know your actual speed and location. If you want to cruise to areas you don't know, a mounted GPS is nice, but you don't "need" much of anything.  Lights if you're sailing at night.]

• Keel bolts. Probably need replacement. Lifting the floor panels on the cabin sole, I've found that the tops of the keel bolts are very corroded. I have no idea about the scope of this job... assuming it involves grinding out the keel bolt heads from below and replacing them one at a time? (first-hand stories and perspectives on this task would be much appreciated)

[I'm not an expert at this one. You have a cast iron keel which changes some things. In general, keel bolts aren't like a normal bolt.  They are cast into the keel when it's made and the threaded ends are what you see.]

• Replace the head. It is old, nasty, covered in black mold, and seems to slowly backfill into the bowl while underway.

[Heads are easy to replace and not terribly expensive unless you want something fancy.]

• The wastewater seacock (from the 'y' in the head outflow hose) is frozen shut. I'm guessing it is old and bronze (it is very green now). I should probably ensure it opens and closes smoothly before floating it again. Replace it if not..
  

[The seacock is a tapered plug type. If you take the nut off the end, and rap on it with a hammer (protect the threads with something) you may be able to knock the plug out and clean it up. You might also want to replace it with a newer ball valve type.  Tapered plugs work fine and they've been around forever, but they require maintenance and can be a bit of a pain.]

• Deck work. There is a soft spot in the cockpit sole, right in front of the companionway, which will need fixing. I've found videos on how this is done, but haven't done much FG work myself (yet). The balsa core adds an added level of difficulty.

There is also the to-be-expected work to be done too... like cleaning, panting the undersides, replacing running rigging, tuning standing rigging, etc, that I won't list here... I also haven't done a full check of the standing rigging. The boat was hauled out and put in its cradle without stepping the mast so I haven't seen the top of the mast up close yet.

I'll stop there. Any constructive thoughts would be appreciated... others will be tolerated ;-)

Cheers!

Jon

PS I'll try to add some photos... but I might not have sufficient permissions to do so.

Rudder damage

Keel bolts

Seacock (seized)

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[David Walker]

Jon, congratulations on your new boat. We have a 1981 26, number 1728.  Bought it in 2016 and sail out of Marblehead MA.  Good advise fro previous answer.

I will add that standing rigging should be checked by a digger unless you know what to look for. Mine was original based on the turnbuckle design. Also the keel bolts are replaceable. You can grand off the corroded nuts and drive them down out of the keel foot. Should only be fairing compound below the heads. Also  the rudder post should be checked. Originals were aluminum and corroded baldly at the bearings. Stainless steel posted replacement rudders are available. 

Dan Pfeifer , on this list is the guru of all things P26 and 10m. He will most likely chime in and is the expert. 

Dave Walker.  Isabella, P26 1728

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/CAK8p_9MSkOz-TUd7HY1bhh2szbQZPqZaBOMpwtCLC4794RHnaQ%40mail.gmail.com.

[David Walker]

Please excuse the autocorrect typos.  My thumbs are too big for this phone keyboard!

[David Walker]

http://dan.pfeiffer.net/p26/boat.htm

All things to know about the P26 with thanks to Dan. 

Dave Walker

[Jonathan Boright]

Thanks for the very valuable feedback, all! What a great community y'all have going here... :-) 

Peter, I'll certainly take your advice wrt disassembling the seacock. Now that I have the brand and style names, I find that there are plenty of instructional web resources (diagrams, YouTube videos, etc.) to go along with your guidance. The task now feels less daunting by far. 

Thanks for all your comments as well, Tom. I think you are spot on with your diagnosis of the outboard issue... When I took out the gas tanks (2 metal 6-gallon), I noticed that one of them was indented... like the air was being sucked out of it... which it was. The air vent valve was closed down tight. As soon as I opened it up, the tank started to regain its intended shape. I'm pretty confident that this will solve the sputtering issue. Also, my rudder does wiggle and clunk a bit when I manipulate the bottom of it. Here's hoping that it is just the bushings that need to be replaced... not the whole rudder.  I'll probably have to dig a hole to allow the rudder to drop fully... but I'm not on pavement, so that shouldn't be a (very big) problem.  

Dave, I do plan to have a rigger come check out the standing rigging. Would you think it OK to do this while on land or do I need to wait 'til I'm in the water? I imagine the hull must flex a little and have a slightly different shape in and out of water... which must affect the rigging tension?  The biggest unknown for me is/was the keel bolts... and it is good to know that they can be popped out from the top (inside) down (out). Do you think that this can be done in such a way (one at a time, properly torqued and sealed) that the keel-to-hull seal wouldn't be compromised? 

Finally, Dan Pheiffer, your website is a treasure trove. Thanks for all your hard work putting that together! Part numbers even for replacement keel bolts, nuts, and washers (oh my!). This will help immeasurably.

Now that my sense of optimism has been properly restored... it's time to go part shopping.

Undoubtedly I will come back with other more specific questions as I work through these (and other) issues. 

Thanks again!

J

Jon Boright

Ann Bee

Pearson 26

Burlington, VT

[David Walker]

Jon, I had a 2000 Yamaha 9.9  high thrust on my previous boat. I bought it new and sold it with the boat in 2015. I was glad to see it go. My problem from day one was starting. It had an automatic choke, would barely start, and would not idle until it was fully warmed up. Once warm it was great at power but the idling was always iffy. Tended to stall while docking and picking up a mooring.  After 15 years and about 4 different shops servicing it the problem remained. The final straw was a mechanic that was convinced the idle jet was hopelessly clogged and a new carburetor was the only solution.  When he tried to order one from Yamaha, they would not sell it because they claimed it was a European only engine!  I bought it from a dealer in Ct. most P26’s around here have Toharsu 9.8’s. They are a little lighter, seem to be bulletproof and fit well on the stern well. 

My keel bolts and nuts look pretty much like yours so replacing them has been on my list for a while. My plan was to do them one at a time while the boat was blocked. Grinding down the nuts and driving out the bottom. I asked the list awhile back and got a lot of opinions, most il-informed since the P26 has a very different keel configuration than other Pearsons.  Others had socket damage and leaks, so needed to remove the keel anyway. There’s information on that process on Dan’s site but I haven’t seen any info on the bolt only replacement. My keel joint does not leak, there is no movement of the keel and no sign of ever been grounded so I’m not planning on dropping it. 

Dan does have an article about recording the cockpit floor. It’s a big job mainly because the access is tight unless you are small. 

We weeklong cruise with a self contained head with a 5 gal waste tank and a three gallon fresh water tank. It is plumbed to a deck pump out. The only active thru hull I have are the cockpit drains and bilge pump fitting on the transom.

Dave  Isabella P26 1728

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[James Weiner]

Keep me informed PLEASE..  

I also was given a P26 last summer.. Its an older one (1970s?)and it has been on the land for 20+ years. 
I will be sailing it on Lake St. Clair (Just north of Detroit)
when I introduced myself (8/2023) I received the following email:

Welcome aboard. 

A long time member of our group Dan Pfeiffer used to own a Pearson 26 and spent a lot of time documenting his work with an extensive web site which can be found at the following link.

http://dan.pfeiffer.net/p26/boat.htm

There are also many other P26 owners in the group. 

Guy

Puffin 10M #6

My P26 has a Mercury 9.9 hp that was almost brand new when it was put in storage. Alas it will not start

It took me a full day just to remove the grime and growth with a power washer.

I already replaced the tiller -- and added one battery (it has 2). 

I think mine needs new bottom paint, but I have not done a lot more 

I was forced to stop trying to resurrect it because of cold weather .. 

but will be working on it again as soon as Michigan Winter breaks. 

Jim a/k/a Reddog 
P26

[James Weiner]

BTW The "hatch cover" on my P26 was almost rotted away  when I got it..  

Further, marine plywood is $125-140 or so a sheet.. 

BUT I found a source on Amazon for 24x36 x 1/2 inch thick PVC and replaced the hatch with PVC so it will never again rot..

   (using the screen and fasteners from the former cover) .. I also added some SS handles on the inside so its easier to handle  

    The PVC was about $70 for each piece so the cost was about the same..  
Now I could have done a better job but it looks great

   ( I used a hand held router with a round-over bit and a straight bit plus a hand held jig saw so some of sides are a little wavy)

On Tuesday, January 23, 2024 at 1:30:43 PM UTC-5 dmwalk...@gmail.com wrote:

[Jonathan Boright]

Jim, 

Nice job on the hatch cover. I've used that pvc material for a bathroom interior windowsill that was prone to water damage and it worked well. It does tend to keep fingerprints... especially on the sanded bits.  I'm not sure there is anything to be done about that. I'm guessing (WAG) that paint wouldn't bond too well to it.

J

[Jonathan Boright]

Dave, thanks for sharing about your Yamaha experience... Outboard engines are a new thing for me and if it doesn't work I'd just assume that it was something I did wrong. My experience so far is that mine doesn't have trouble starting, so I'm feeling lucky. Currently, my motor is attached directly to the transom (with some metal flashing to protect the FG).  The attachment feels pretty iffy to me... wiggles a lot and doesn't feel very secure. I worry that perhaps there is some damage to the transom underneath the metal. Will investigate further in the spring when I take off the motor to have it tuned up. 

One thing I'm wondering is whether people generally keep their motors in the water when sailing or if they get retracted (tipped forward or lifted in some way). My outboard pretty much fills up the motor well, and it doesn't look like there is enough room in the motor well to tip the motor forward and out of the water... The PO had a mounting bracket (that ultimately failed) which probably makes getting the motor out of the water easier. 

Question for the P26 sailers in the group; What motor do you use (size and make), do you have a mounting bracket, and are you happy with your setup? Do you sail with the motor in or out of the water? I'm also curious if anyone out there has experience with electric motors (outboards) with the P26. I'm in Vermont, sailing on Lake Champlain, and will mostly use the motor to get in and out of the slip, or to get home faster if the wind totally dies. I'm not imagining using the motor for many hours at a time... this thought will certainly be put to the test come springtime. 

Also, Dave, I'm in the same boat as you (literally!) about the keel bolt replacement. I don't think that I have any leakage associated with the keel... but there is some water in the bilge so I might be mistaken about that. I've assumed that the water comes from elsewhere (like rainwater coming through the hole in the side wall of the cockpit seat, where it appears there was once a speaker... now rotted away). I don't see any cracks or signs of corrosion around the keel-hull seam on the outside. Anyway, let me know if you decide to try the one-at-a-time keel bolt replacement without dropping the keel. I'll follow your progress closely!

     

J 

 

On Tuesday, January 23, 2024 at 1:30:43 PM UTC-5 dmwalk...@gmail.com wrote:

[David Walker]

Jon, I was about to tell you to use the taste test to determine whether bilge is rain water or not - then it hit me you are sailing in fresh water!  While the boat is on the hard you might simulate rain with a hose and see if you have leaks.   Only way to confirm hull leak is to check carefully during  periods of no rain. 

Dave

On Tue, Jan 23, 2024 at 5:18 PM Jonathan Boright <jbor...@gmail.com> wrote:

Dave, thanks for sharing  you to I about your Yamaha experience... Outboard engines are a new thing for me and if it doesn't work I'd just assume that it was something I did wrong. My experience so far is that mine doesn't have trouble starting, so I'm feeling lucky. Currently, my motor is attached directly to the transom (with some metal flashing to protect the FG).  The attachment feels pretty iffy to me... wiggles a lot and doesn't feel very secure. I worry that perhaps there is some damage to the transom underneath the metal. Will investigate further in the spring when I take off the motor to have it tuned up. 

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/da6f05cb-7c6b-41a6-b3e9-960d8c3875cen%40googlegroups.com.

[Jonathan Boright]

Also, Dave, can you elaborate about your "bilge pump fitting on the transom"? My only bilge pump is a manual affair, and the output is just to a hose that almost makes it overboard if stretched out the open lazarette cover. Your solution seems much preferred...

Jon 

[Jonathan Boright]

Good idea... My plan is/was to dry out the bilge as completely as possible and then see what happens when the rain comes (or snow melts). If there's water coming in, it certainly doesn't come from the keel seam.

J 

[David Walker]

My tohatsu power head is smaller than the Yamaha. It lifts by tipping forward into the engine well and fits if you raise the tiller/throttle arm.  I don’t think my old Yamaha would have fit.  My boat came with the motor on one of those folding mounts attached to the transom. It drove me crazy. It was difficult to get up and down, extending toast the transom and the engine transmission shifter is on the power head and was a pain to reach. It came off at the first haul. PO claimed he added it because the extra long shaft caused the prop to hit the rudder when the motor was mounted on the transom as usual. I fixed that by tilting it up one hole. It’s not optimum alignment but I’m not trying to plane and having the bow a little higher under power is not a bad thing. BTW, be careful to rotate the tiller 180 degrees  before backing as the rudder will turn staled if you don’t. It can be violent. 

I find lifting the lower unit out of the water under sail can add almost a knot of boat speed. When I’m day sailing I sometimes leave it down depending on how far I have to go and if I am not (racing) nearby boats. 

Dave

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[David Walker]

Jon, I have a manual Whale pump mounted through the vertical seat base, port side just aft of the main bulkhead. I also have an electric auto pump in the bilge below the step from the cabin to cockpit. They tee into a single hose run under the port bench to the transom where there is a through hull above the waterline.  The strum box for the manual pump is just aft of the casing for the keel, under the spot we keep the icebox under the cabin to cockpit step. 

Dave

[Dan Pfeiffer]

Regarding the speedo, I would keep it.  Fix the thru-hull mounting as needed.  A speedo is particularly valuable as you learn to sail this boat.  Did that last trim change help or hurt?  The first indicator will be speed through the water.  A GPS app or even a dedicated GPS just wont give you the same information on small trim changes.  Also, in conjunction with the GPS it can give you information about the effects of current (with good calibration).   Having said that, I wouldn't sail without a GPS.   I'll also add that I have a very comprehensive instrument setup on my boat (integrated speed, wind, fluxgate compass, GPS,...).  Last summer while casually racing I had some intermittent trouble with the speedo impeller getting stuck.  Without speed I had no true wind angle or direction info.  I found myself looking up more at the windex and sails and I had better than average legs in the race.  I do love all that data I get from my instruments (I find true wind direction especially useful) but it can all be a distraction and hinder performance if you are not mindful. 

Dan Pfeiffer

[Jonathan Boright]

Thanks, Dan, for the thoughtful response... and I've decided to keep the speedo. I'm sailing in a lake (Champlain), so calculating current won't be so useful... but I can see how a calculated true wind angle (and speed) would be useful. I would imagine that I need specialized integrated equipment to make this happen though... and my boat currently has these three (non-functional) gauges;  

  

• speed/log  - Horizon, Standard names on it. The attached thru-hull unit has been removed and has some damage. Will need to be replaced.   

    

• wind gauge (Signet MK254). The top-of-mast unit is still there 

 

• depth gauge (Standard). 

None of them are currently functional... meaning that nothing happens when the power switch is flipped on. I haven't done any real troubleshooting so that's all I really know. 

So my (multi-part) question is this: 

• What are the odds of successfully repairing the existing depth and wind gauges? What usually breaks first on these devices (i.e. where should I start)?       
• Is there an obvious and not crazy-expensive replacement for the wind and speed units that will do the work together to get true wind speed etc?       

I'll post more here when I've done some more testing...

Cheers!

Jon

[Dave Cole]

I have the same speed and depth gauges and they both work.  They are far from state of the art, but they function.  Make sure they have 12 volts at the gauges.  A digital multimeter is a great debugging tool.

Wago lever wiring connectors are great for making temporary connections to debug wiring.  They will also accept multimeter probes for test connections.    Alligator clip jumpers are almost as useful, but the Wagos are very secure.  

Dave

10M #26

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[Peter McGowan]

I had success getting the data from a legacy depth transducer and a water speed/temp transducer.  They were likely 20-30 years old as the display instruments were branded Autohelm (bought by Raytheon in 1990, and rebranded Raymarine in 2001).  They still worked though!

It was a two part solution, the first step was digitizing the analog data from those tranducers, which I accomplished by wiring them into an Actisense DST-2 module.  This successfully converted the analog signals into NMEA-0183 packets output on a NMEA-0183 cable.   The next step was to convert the NMEA-1083 data packets to NMEA-2000 data packets, which I accomplished using an Actisense NGW-1.  This part was plug and play easy as it pulled power off the NMEA-2000 network.

The end result of all of this was the depth transducer and speed/temp transducer outputting data on my NMEA-2000 network making it immediately accessible to my chartplotter and instrument displays (also on the NMEA-2000 network).  I happen to use Garmin displays but any NMEA-2000 compatible display will be able to display the data, just pick your favorite.

In case you’re not familiar an NMEA-2000 network is basically just a network cable with two capped ends.  You connect devices to it with T connectors.  There is always one device on it to provide 12v power which can then be picked up by various devices that don’t need much power (like a depth, speed, or temperature display).  A device that uses a lot of power (like a chartplotter, vhf radio, or stereo unit) will need its own 12v supply.  In my setup the Actisense DST has its own power, while the NGW uses network power.

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[Jonathan Boright]

Thanks Peter and Dave. Great info. Delving into nav electronics now... there doesn't seem to be a shortage of choices online. 

Upon closer inspection, it looks like my wind transducer at the masthead isn't spinning freely, and perhaps one of the paddle/cup appendages is damaged or missing. Looks like I'll need to get up to there and take a closer look... a brand new challenge, and something that I should learn to do anyway. Any P26 owners have advice on do's and don'ts for getting up there?

Jon

   

Jonathan Boright

bor...@isciences.com
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Water and Climate, Corporate Sustainability, Remote Sensing, Human Security

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[Dave Cole]

Is your boat are the hard?  Conventional wisdom says to not climb the mast when the boat is blocked.   But if you can get a manlift to your boat where it is, thats likely the best way if your boat is blocked.  If your boat is in the water you can still use a manlift or you can climb the mast.  There is a lot of info on various ways to do that.

My marina has a manlift.   Last time I used it with the marina staff it was $120 or so.   I tied the boat tightly to a seawall near their boat wells and we did it there.   The manlift takes the drama out of mast work.

Dave

10M #26

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[Jonathan Boright]

Yup... my boat is on the (frozen) hard. Good to know about not climbing the mast when it is blocked... why is that, out of curiosity? Stress on the hull at the block points I imagine?  I don't think my marina could get a man-lift close enough to my boat to be useful (we're pretty packed-in, and I'm deeeep in the back-forty)... but I'll ask. 

Thanks

J

Jonathan Boright

bor...@isciences.com
Research Scientist
ISciences, LLC
126 College Street. Suite 330 (note new address)
Burlington, VT  05401
main: (802) 864-2999; direct: (802) 448-7824

Water and Climate, Corporate Sustainability, Remote Sensing, Human Security

http://www.isciences.com

https://www.facebook.com/ISciencesLLC.USA

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[Jeff Griglack]

Jonathan,

Hull stress isn't the problem. I think the problem is putting a large mass (you) up high in the rigging where it could destabilize the boat on the stands. A smaller, lighter boat like the P26 might have bigger problems with this.

I also store with my masts up, and I leave any work up the masts until spring launch. I sprung for an ATN Top Climber so I can do this myself.

Jeff

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[Peter McGowan]

That mast is quite a long lever and your keel is above the fulcrum (when in the water it would be beneath it so climb away!).

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