10M Proper Keel blocking for winter storage

[Dave Cole]

I am pretty sure that I found out from this group that the keel on the
10M should not be supported on the rear end of the keel, due to it
being hollow fiberglass.

I had my boat pulled out late this year and when I was there they had
some equipment failure and couldn't bring my cradle to the boat to set
the boat while I was there. They left the boat hanging in the straps
until they could get the forklift working again.

I told them how to block the keel. I even marked up the paint on the
keel by scratching "no block" on both sides of the keel with where it
should not be blocked.

I went to see the boat on Sunday and there is a block sitting under
the entire bottom edge of the keel. :-(

The keel looks to be flat on the block, which is a 2x10 on the flat.
The cradle is very rigid steel so it won't rock from its current
position.

Nothing has fractured, yet. How much of a risk is it to leave it like this?
To reblock it, they will have to trailer the boat and cradle out of
its existing position, lift the boat with the travel lift, reposition
the block and put the boat back via the trailer.

I know they won't want to do this. But I did tell them. And I
wrote on the keel and took a picture of it after I did which is dated
of course.

I'm at a very nice marina which is not cheap, and stuff like this still happens.

Dave
10M #26

[Peter Trunfio]

I’ve had that problem in the past as well…

As long as the boat is “tilting” forward in the cradle and not “tilting” aft…you should be fine. You just don’t want the fiberglass fairing supporting the load.

And I usually have to ask the yard to drop the bow a bit anyway, since the cockpit scuppers are forward in the cockpit.

Where it really becomes a problem is a) if you aren’t in a cradle, and b) they put one block under the keel, and another block under the fairing…

PMT

Peter M. Trunfio

+1.917.640.6450 (c)

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[Stephen Craft]

Yes, the yard where I keep my boat has the keel blocked in the front and the back of the keel.  I also have a 10M

The boat was bow high and the cockpit would not drain, so the yard owner lowered it.

I noticed a vertical crack on one side, but not the other.  It looks like nothing has failed at this point, but the yard will be 

responsible if there is failure.

On Wed, Dec 13, 2023 at 10:12 AM Dave Cole <dave...@gmail.com> wrote:

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                    |._
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[JimR]

I had the same issue with my 36-1 this year.  I used a sharpie to draw a line on the keel and immediately told the year to move the blocking which they promptly did.  I saw another 36-1 a couple of years ago with the back of the keel cracked wide open due to improper blocking.  Good advice on the "tilt" of the boat.  The deck suppers on the 36-1 only work effectively when the boat is level or slightly back end down.

Jim

[Jeff Griglack]

You should have them move it before something does crack.  Then you should be glad that you were lucky.

The aft foot, or so, of the keel on the P365 is hollow and that is the deep bilge.  When I bought my boat, there was evidence of a half-assed repair in that area*.  When the moving company brought the boat to my house, they blocked it on the hollow part of the keel and cracked it again to the point that bilge water was leaking out.  I had the trucking company come back and reblock the boat, then I cut out the bad/wet fiberglass and rebuilt the bottom of my hollow keel section.  It was not a fun job, but it's good now.

This is a common design on several Pearson models.  In a P365 discussion group, some people have gone much farther than I did, and one even filled in the bottom 6 inches to a foot with solid epoxy mixed with vermiculite (he had this work done someplace in the south pacific).

Jeff

*The PO said he knew nothing about a repair there, and I believe him.  I suspect the yard where he stored it blocked it wrong and covered it up.  He didn't do any work on the boat himself, opting to just pay the yard for everything, so he wouldn't have seen the patch when the bottom was getting painted.

------------------------------------------------------------------
| Jeff Griglack             "Jabberwocky" P-365 #269

------------------------------------------------------------------
| "Don't take life so serious, son, it ain't nohow permanent"
|                   - Walt Kelly
| 'Years ago my mother used to say to me, she'd say, "In this
| world, Elwood, you must be" – she always called me Elwood –
| "In this world, Elwood, you must be oh so smart or oh so pleasant."
| Well, for years I was smart. I recommend pleasant. You may quote me.'
|               —James Stewart as Elwood P. Dowd
------------------------------------------------------------------

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[James Keszenheimer]

When I bought my 10m a few years ago it had been sitting on the hard for 3 years blocked under the glass portion. I’m assuming the yard had been doing it regularly over the previous 20 years or more. I saw no adverse effects that I could directly attribute to it (a bit of a smile that hasn’t returned after resealing, and a delaminated spot halfway up the keel on the glass portion that hasn’t seemed to take my patch job). Of course now I have it blocked only under the lead. 

That said, you never know, but I wouldn’t sweat it.

Jim

10m #102

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[Guy Johnson]

Jim; 

I'm glad to hear your 10M didn't suffer from improper blocking, my 10M has suffered from improper blocking. 

Most of the aft keel was separated from the lead and I reattached it using fiberglass, epoxy and bolts. No problems since then. 

I'm also very careful about the placement of the keel blocks. 

Guy

Puffin 10M #6

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From: pearso...@googlegroups.com <pearso...@googlegroups.com> on behalf of James Keszenheimer <jkesze...@gmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2023 1:00 PM
To: Pearson Owners Group <pearso...@googlegroups.com>
Subject: Re: [pearson ] 10M Proper Keel blocking for winter storage

 

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[Jim Keszenheimer]

Guy, yikes! Thanks for sharing. I guess I will count my blessings that mine survived!! 

Jim

On Dec 13, 2023, at 2:02 PM, Guy Johnson <guy...@hotmail.com> wrote:



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[darin doherty]

Greetings all,

So this was new to me when I went into the yard in Feb.  I am almost done, and plan on splashing in the beginning of January when the yard operations open back up.

I did not know about the blocking issue when I went into the yard, and there are two separate blocks under the keel.  One under the lead and one under the glass portion.  The boat is tilted forward some, and I don't see any issues with it as it stands now.  I did fix the keel "smile" which was caused by the keel step deterioration and the keel bolts loosening.  I don't plan on messing with it as I don't see any cracks or separation between the trailing edge and keel.

My question is how is this fiberglass portion attached?  I can see the bolts in the top of the lead, and the last bolt which seems to be a few inches lower than the rest of the keel.  Is the fiberglasss trailing edge filled with foam, open?  Glassed to the actual hull aft of the lead and glued on?  Anyone ever actually open this section up on the 10M.

I love the design of the 10M for a lot of things, but there are definitely things that seem iffy also.  This is one.

Thanks,

Darin

P10M  #108

Central Fl.

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[Guy Johnson]

The aft extension is glued on with a rabbit joint. The extension is about 1/4" to 3/8' thick where it overlaps the lead of the keel. 

It overlaps for about an inch. 

When I reattached, mine I used a thickened mixture of epoxy in the joint, tapped 1/4" bolts into the lead and covered with 2 layers of 1708 biaxial with a 6 to 10" overlap. 

Guy

Puffin 10M #6

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[darin doherty]

Guy,

That is interesting, I had about 6 inches of the smile run vertically on one side at the trailing edge joint.  Not wide enought to get any adhesive in, just ground down a bit and filled with epoxy fairing.

Is it actually molded onto the hull or just attached to the bottom of the hull with overlapping glass?  It is obviously not bolted on at the hull joint.  If you cut into the bottom of the bilge where it runs, would it be hollow?

Dairn

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[Guy Johnson]

I believe the extension was attached after the keel was bolted in place. 

I don't know how it was attached to the keel stub, probably just some thickened resin to glue it in place. 

Hollow?, I think it was filled with chop from a gun so solid, but not very structural. 

Dan has some pictures of a 10M hull on his web site that show the keel stub of the 10M. 

Guy

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