Kgalagadi - Nossob to Swarpan (KAA gate area)
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Rob Harvey
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Rob Harvey
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Hennie Rautenbach
Western Woodlands – Botswana – Easter 2011 – Hennie Rautenbach
I once visited the Western Woodlands over the Easter period of 2003. At that time it was done as a guided Legends tour with the late Keith Thomas from Berrybush in Tshabong. To me the area epitomises Africa. It is the most beautiful part of the Kalahari. Miles and miles of pristine Kalahari. I still have very fond memories of that tour, done with a bunch of old Land Rover Series vehicles and good friends:
http://www.overland.co.za/Land_Rover/Legends/2003/
So this year, I failed to get a booking in Mabuasehube N/R in time. Alternatives included Gonarezhou N/P in Zimbabwe but all interested parties cancelled prior to the long weekend. Pierre Radley phoned me and inquired about my plans for the long-weekend. I mentioned to him an email I received from fellow Overland Forum subscriber, Ockert Nel, who mentioned that he is keen to go and drive a few of the Botswana Cutlines during Easter. This presented an opportunity to get away and I included Pierre in our plans. Pierre would be visited by his brother and his girlfriend from Germany and he was keen to take them across the border. I mentioned to Ockert that I have had it in the back of my mind for some time to go and see what Masetleng Pan looks like. Images and reports from Netta van Zyl, Uli von Kappf and Willem Coetsee sparked this interest and it appeared to be doable in the span of just a few days. Ockert and Pierre agreed and the plans were set.
Netta’s images:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/11763349@N06/sets/72157625960323973/detail/
Uli’s images:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ulivonkapff/sets/72157623844858640/detail/
Willem’s images:
https://profiles.google.com/Willem.Coetsee#Willem.Coetsee/photos/5526057954911442769
Preperations:
After five years it was time to replace the dual deep-cycle batteries in my vehicle. I threw out the Deltec Voyagers (very good batteries IMHO) and bought two Optima YellowTop batteries. Reports indicate that they can withstand a lot of abuse and I wanted something reliable. I also wanted to move the on deep-cycle from the Land Rover seatbox to the back of the bin. Reasons are workspace issues and the pain of getting the batteries out or maintenance. This was done well ahead of time. I also decided to fit a new set of BF Goodrich Mud Terrains (T/A KM2). I had terrible experience with the original Michelin XZL’s. In the short span of 4 years I have had 12 flats. Don’t run them with tubes. That is all advice I am going to offer. I also fitted new LED strip-lights in the bin. Best investment I have made in a while.
Lastly I got the new Tracks4Africa Botswana Paper Map (R 150 approx – Outdoor Warehouse). It’s a brilliant map. It shows estimated times along with the distances along all tracks. Just the reference I need to use along with the GPS.
On the topic o Outdoor Warehouse. I also got a set of (terrible) ratchet tie-downs from them. Stay away from the MotoQUIP brand. They frayed quite badly on the trip and appear o be of sub-standard quality. I will replace them with something a lot tougher.
With the wallet dented we were ready to pack. I decided to take a gamble and take both cooked and uncooked meat along. There is lots of debate around taking meat into Botswana. (I respect the moral and ethical positions people take on this). It was not allowed during Easter due to a foot & mouth scare. Suffice to say that I am a fussy eater and certain cuts of meat are not available in the shops in some of the smaller towns. I pre-cooked a smoked pork-neck and leg of lamb. Sliced it and froze it. If the raw stuff got confiscated we’d stock up again at Jwaneng Pick and Pay (which has a good selection BTW).
My two boys decided to stay at home. Appears they are fully cured of the Bushcamp experience. So it would be just me and Ronel. It’s been a while since Ronel joined me on a trip like this so I was thrilled J
Day 1 – Friday 22 April (Good Friday – Public Holiday)
After reports of a Government Strike in Botswana and slow queues at the border posts we decided not to attempt the border on the first day of the long-weekend. Ockert drove out ahead to Kang and we would meet with him there. Pierre and I would do the short hop to Zeerust and stay over there. We decided against camping for the first day and opted for a Guesthouse. I got a very good reference from the Marico Tourism Association. We packed leisurely (still completely overloaded) and after I washed the Landy we said goodbye to the boys and hit the road at 11H00.
Distance for the day: 260 Km
Destination: Bly N Biekie Guesthouse (ZA 083-353-7175)
We saw some spectacularly idiotic driving and overtaking on the N4. The N1 was VERY busy and there were long delays just past Zambezi at Pumelani Toll Plaza. I was still getting comfortable with the vehicle and took it very easy. We stopped in Rustenburg at the Waterfall Mall and had a fantastic burger at Piatto for lunch (washed down with an equally nice Peroni Draught) . The weather seemed promising despite a forecast of rain so we decided to get some meat for a braai the evening. I just just manged to get in at Woolworths before closing time and grabbed a pack of “Morrocan Lamb Tjops” and fresh Ciabatta. We were a bit apprehensive leaving the fully packed vehicle in the car park but all was fine upon return. The trip went incident free all the way. We met Pierre, Deon and Juliet in Zeerust and went to the Guesthouse. Perfect and the best value for money at R 300 per double room (en-suite). It started drizzling lightly but we still managed a good braai.
Day 2 – Saturday 23 April
Destination: Kalahari Rest, Kang, Botswana
Distance: 530 Km (7H30M including all stops and border crossing)
The day was cool, overcast and drizzly. Breakfast (optional cost) was served outside in the cold so wasn’t too great. It was ample and we packed it in despite the cold. We made the call the previous day to try the Ramatlabama Border Post near Mafikeng. We left Zeerust at 09H00 and I stopped for diesel at the Sasol in Mafikeng where the service was very slow L. It was also freezing cold and I was concerned that I may have packed to few warm things. I pulled into the very modern and well represented Mafikeng Mall and bought two additional blankets. These would see no use L
Ramatlama Border Post went very quick (20 mins a side) and I will certainly consider this option again when entering that side of Botswana. Thanks for the reference Eric Sommer. I doubt (however) that it’s much of a time saving because passing through both Mafikeng and Kanye is slow. The rest of the drive went well and the weather improved as we approached Kang. There was a noticeable headwind and my truck was burning diesel excessively. We found a campsite at Kalahari Rest (P80 P/P + Wood P30) and set up camp. Ockert camped a short distance from us.
The weather was great and we had a great braai. I re-heated the Moroccan Chops from the previous evening and they went down exceptionally well. The evening turned quite festive and we went to bed late. There was a spectacular lightning show all around us in the distance. In the middle of the night there was a massive downpour but we slept warm, dry and sound J
Day 3 – Sunday 24 April
Destination: Masetleng Pan, Botswana
Distance: 270 Km (6H including all stops)
After the night’s deluge we woke up to a warm and sunny day. Everything was wet o packing was slow and we left late (09H30). Filling with water and fuel was also slow. I put in a 150L of diesel at Exel Kang (P 1000). After that we were on our way.
Kang to Hukuntsi (tar) = TERRIBLE. The road is broken and pot-holed. Very slow.
Hukuntsi to Zhutswa (gravel) = OKAY. Slightly rough but reasonably good.
Zhutswa to Ngwatle (gravel) = GOOD. We managed a comfortable 60 Km/h.
Ngwatle to Masetleng Pan (sand) = POOR. Very overgrown and lots of scratches from the encroaching thorn bushes L At best 30 Km/h.
We were flagged down in Ngwatle by just about the entire village. The payment process in Ngwatle for camping at Masetleng Pan is unstructured and poorly communicated (P50 P/P and P50 P/V). It is a rubbish strewn Village with equally dirty inhabitants. No paperwork and No receipt. I wasn’t impressed. To top it two teenagers parked themselves down in the track ahead of us to force vehicle to stop so they can beg for Sweeties. Poor show L
After the slow, scratchy and bumpy ride to the pan we found a massive herd of springbuck. They ran and pranced and it was beautiful. I last saw something like this in the CKGR in Dec 1999. Very rewarding.
Sadly the Masetleng (official) Camping Spot was occupied by (what appeared to be) two groups. We battled a bit to locate the completely overgrown access track to the campsite. Most people appear to drive along the edge of the pan. The pan itself was abundant with game. Springbuck, Red Hartebeest and Gnu. Somewhat weighed with the disappointment of the occupied campsite we set up camp along the track on a flat part. It appeared to have been used previously as a campsite by other people too. It wasn’t too bad. It was elevated and had a spectacular view but was (of course) completely overgrown. Anyway – we made the best of it. We were treated to a nice thunderstorm the afternoon. The temperatures were moderately warm. Very comfortable. We parked here for two days and just chilled. No sight or sound of predator other than Jackal howling in the distance. We braai’d the evening. Terrible chops (Hokaai Centurion).
Day 4 – Monday 25 April
(No driving – other than to scout around the pan)
We spend the day leisurely. The pan had lots of game on it. We saw the adjacent campers leave during the course of the morning. Ockert and I went to investigate the official spot. It is very nice but was also badly overgrown after the recent and ample rains in Botswana. We decided not to move there. Good thing too because two new parties arrived separately in the afternoon. All of them battled to find the access track. It was clear that they were all driving on T4A maps J BUT ! Sadly folks, the secret is out on Masetleng Pan. It is unlikely that you will find the pan all to yourself in the popular seasons L
I spent the day preparing a lamb-shank pot and we sat and chatted and watched the sun/rain/game and day go past. All in all it was a wonderful day !
Day 5 – Tuesday 26 April
Destination: Unknown - Kaa Pans Area/KTFP Boundary
Distance: 185 Km (5H30M including all stops)
We packed slowly. I didn’t sleep well the previous night. A thin black snake had slithered past me the previous night when I got up for the call of nature. It was quite eerie in the illumination of the moon. I heard all sorts of noises and guess it was the knowledge that the pot half full of food was still outside and that there may be scavengers in the area. Anyway – I inquired from the neighbouring visitors how they knew of the pan. T4A is the answer... Guess we have all played our part to publicize these jewels. Unfortunately they are no longer ours alone.
Ockert split up from us and started heading back. Pierre and I headed for Kaa Gate along the most direct route. The sand was nicely compacted from all the rain and the driving was very good. The views of the Western Woodlands were magnificent. We were the only vehicles driving those tracks that day and it was fantastic. It was as if the entire Western Woodlands belonged to us.
I drove to Kaa Gate and filled up with water. The officials couldn’t understand (comprehend) that I wasn’t on my way into the park and merely traversing its boundary. We soaked up the surrounds and enjoyed the drive. We called it a day near Bushy Pan when Pierre reported that his Landy lost its clutch. As much as I love these vehicles there are almost always incidents on our tours. We found a spot to camp next to the cutline and proceeded with repairs. It was a crap job but went quickly.
We set ourselves up for a camp the evening and made a nice fire. Fabulous firewood in abundant supply. Ronel and I had the leftovers from the previous day’s potjie and it went down very well.
As the night grew later we could feel the approach of cooler weather. There were some ominous clouds in the distance but we had no rains. There were no sights or sounds of any predators. Deon and Juliet stayed around the fire until very late. Europe doesn’t offer these luxuries. Open skies, Galaxies of stars so close you can almost touch them, Hardwood fires, Large steaks, Owls hooting. Africa at its best.
Day 6 – Wednesday 27 April
Destination: Ceazer Motel, Jwaneng
Distance: 400Km (7H30M)
We woke up to a freezing morning. (The snow in Swellendam refer) J We were up early and got packing soon. We left our camping spot as we found it. The track down to Mabuasehube drove much quicker than the TA suggested times. We saw several herds of Oryx along the way. Wonderful. Near the Hukuntsi intersection we pulled over for a late breakfast. We discussed our options. The original plans were for us to camp along the Mabua exit cutline. The weather became prohibitive and we reached that spot too early. The spot I had designate is also no longer feasible. There are lots of cattle farming activity in close proximity. We made the call to head for Jwaneng and lodge it for the night. The drive along the Kaa/Mabu boundary was very rewarding and I enjoyed it very much. We encountered our first traffic at the Hukuntsi intersection and along the Mabua exit track.
We reached Jwaneng without hiccup and got a nice room for P500 at Ceazer Motel. Pierre and I went to the Restuarant for drinks where we also had dinner. Very good steaks. Reasonably priced. It turned very festive J That evening was very cold and I was happy for the warm bed.
Day 7 – Thursday 28 April
Destination: Home
Distance: 450 Km
I emptied all my Jerry Cans into the tank and we started our drive at 08H00. Saw a burnt-out truck next to the Trans Kalahari. Wonder what happened ? Lobatse Borderpost was a breeze. On the ZA side all my left-over fruit and veggies got confiscated. Zeerust was a madhouse. Filling with diesel was tedious. Breakfast at the Wimpy took forever. I was keen to get going... J Reached home without incident at 14H30. All and all a great trip with great friends.
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Rob Harvey
Rob Harvey
On Friday, May 24, 2019 at 8:21:56 AM UTC+2, Neels wrote:
1bostoe .
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