Andonstar camera

[Matt Brocklehurst]

Hi all

I've got one of these Andonstar cameras for my head camera (its ideal due to tight space requirements), however what i've found is the 8x LEDs are very visible (8x  white rectangles in a circle!) on the captured image - do people use some form of diffuser on the end? 

Thanks in advance

Matt

[Daniel Dumitru]

Please look at my small article about zeva retrofit on wiki

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[Matt Brocklehurst]

Hi Dan

Thanks - i shall take a look

Matt

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[Cri S]

You should check optics if this are loose and secure it with (red) nail lack.
Before doing this you should set focus better.

You have two choice.
Disable LEDs from camera and add own LEDs.
Use offsets for fiducial recognition.

The second possibility include the option to use cropped image having offsets without
The need to change code, just change camera configuration.
For the first option, led config like the tm220 works.

[Mark Harris]

I'd recommend removing the LEDs from the down cam and adding some further out. Angle of incidence is the angle of reflection, so get the angle so it wont bounce straight back at the camera :)

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[Anthony Webb]

I've been placing parts without issue in ambient light all along. I'd like to add some light to see if there is a difference in performance but I've never not been able to place parts without light so I would just kill them and wash the board with some good ambient light. 

Sent from my iPhone

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[Anthony Webb]

Btw. I used to use that camera. You need to be very careful that as you jog your machine the picture isn't twisting on you. It can do that. 

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 25, 2016, at 1:55 PM, Mark Harris <ma...@rris.com.au> wrote:

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[Matt Brocklehurst]

Thanks for the response - I am wondering if i should try and squeeze an Elp camera instead somewhere - i do wonder if it will start moving out of focus etc.. as it vibrates around with the machine;.

I'm surprised Anthony though you don't have any problems with fiducial detection in natural light - i thought it was looking for bright reflections.

I noticed on a really old post Jason was mentioning a ring light from Adafruit - think its a RGB one-wire control type deal - are these still a good idea? They seem really cheap (£5ish) in Digikey.

On Sun, Sep 25, 2016 at 9:12 PM, Anthony Webb <anthon...@gmail.com> wrote:

Btw. I used to use that camera. You need to be very careful that as you jog your machine the picture isn't twisting on you. It can do that. 

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 25, 2016, at 1:55 PM, Mark Harris <ma...@rris.com.au> wrote:

I'd recommend removing the LEDs from the down cam and adding some further out. Angle of incidence is the angle of reflection, so get the angle so it wont bounce straight back at the camera :)

On 25 September 2016 at 09:30, Cri S <phon...@gmail.com> wrote:

You should check optics if this are loose and secure it with (red) nail lack.
Before doing this you should set focus better.

You have two choice.
Disable LEDs from camera and add own LEDs.
Use offsets for fiducial recognition.

The second possibility include the option to use cropped image having offsets without
The need to change code, just change camera configuration.
For the first option, led config like the tm220 works.

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[Cri S]

As said, it seems the lense is too loose and vibrate. The led should be on center of image, but if lenses is not fixed, it produce similar output. You should check on still standing machine, powered, if you Try to move/touch lenses image moves. If this is the case, red screw fixing solution fix it, or cheap diy nail lack.

[Jason von Nieda]

Avoid adafruit / neopixel / ws2812 style leds. The pwm frequency is too low and causes camera artifacts.

On Sun, Sep 25, 2016 at 3:18 PM Matt Brocklehurst <ma...@mattbrocklehurst.co.uk> wrote:

Thanks for the response - I am wondering if i should try and squeeze an Elp camera instead somewhere - i do wonder if it will start moving out of focus etc.. as it vibrates around with the machine;.

I'm surprised Anthony though you don't have any problems with fiducial detection in natural light - i thought it was looking for bright reflections.

I noticed on a really old post Jason was mentioning a ring light from Adafruit - think its a RGB one-wire control type deal - are these still a good idea? They seem really cheap (£5ish) in Digikey.

On Sun, Sep 25, 2016 at 9:12 PM, Anthony Webb <anthon...@gmail.com> wrote:

Btw. I used to use that camera. You need to be very careful that as you jog your machine the picture isn't twisting on you. It can do that. 

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 25, 2016, at 1:55 PM, Mark Harris <ma...@rris.com.au> wrote:

I'd recommend removing the LEDs from the down cam and adding some further out. Angle of incidence is the angle of reflection, so get the angle so it wont bounce straight back at the camera :)

On 25 September 2016 at 09:30, Cri S <phon...@gmail.com> wrote:

You should check optics if this are loose and secure it with (red) nail lack.
Before doing this you should set focus better.

You have two choice.
Disable LEDs from camera and add own LEDs.
Use offsets for fiducial recognition.

The second possibility include the option to use cropped image having offsets without
The need to change code, just change camera configuration.
For the first option, led config like the tm220 works.

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[Malte R.]

Hi Matt,

I also have that Andonstar cam.

I disabled the internal LED and made an external ringh light; just a simple PCB with circular cutout in the middle with a few white LEDs, mounted using a 3D printed holder.

The problems with shifting images are due to the cam electronics not being fixed too good inside the metal tube. Acceleration is not high enough to cause shifts; most likely it is caused by bending or twisting the USB cable.

To conquer those issues, simply fix the cable at the top using hot glue, shrink tube, cable ties, 3D printed part... Whatever fits your machine.

Other than that, I like the camera - good resolution and small form factor for a reasonable price.

Regards
Malte

[Matt Brocklehurst]

Hi Malte

Thanks for your e-mail.

I must admit i like the form factor of the camera - trying to find a 37x37mm area to fit one of the other board cameras would be quite a challenge.

Hows things with you? Have you got any spares of your ring LED PCB?

Matt

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[Malte R.]

Hi Matt,

same here. Also, it was very easy to mount the andonstar to my modified LitePlacer.

I got some PCBs left; both spare boards and populated with LED:



The resistors are optional; if you want to run the LEDs from constant voltage, populate them and open the solder jumpers - for constant current (preferred) jumpers need to be closed and resistors are not necessary.

The PCB is 37x37mm and the mounting holes match the ones on ELP camera PCB - so easily mounted using long screws and spacers or standoffs.

For mounting on the Andonstar, I can supply a 3D printed bracket.

The ring light works well for me; although I think an angled light source (I've recently seen a few around here...) might cause less reflections and thus be even better; but also more complex to make and requiring more space both horizontally and vertically.

Shoot me a private message if you want a board.

Cheers
Malte

[Wireb]

Where did you order that camera from? Looks like a solution to my down looking camera issues (ELP camera board too wide to fit..) 

[Matt Brocklehurst]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Andonstar-500X-8LED-2MP-Digital-USB-Microscope-Camera-Endoscope-PCB-Reapir-Tool-/272307328864?hash=item3f66c81760:g:BGMAAOSwGXtXh0-x

On Tue, Sep 27, 2016 at 12:13 AM, Wireb <wi...@hotmail.com> wrote:

Where did you order that camera from? Looks like a solution to my down looking camera issues (ELP camera board too wide to fit..) 

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[Wireb]

Thanks got one on order. Will see what I can do with it once in to add a focus / twist lock. 

Later,
Peter

[Matt Brocklehurst]

No problem - i think it should be easy to sort with a bit of glue :) - thats what i'm going to attempt with mine.

Malte has got a better ring LED solution than what the camera currently has - i'm in the process of buying one from him...

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[Wireb]

another thing to try on the LEDs is adding a diffuser. A chunk of was paper / tissue paper / or take a piece of clear plastic that has been sanded to frost it are quick ways to test. Slightly opaque milky white plastic is what folks normally use for this. Will help with the hot spots and make a more even ring. If the reflections are too bad will still have issues but should give better results than what your test images were showing. 

[Wireb]

was paper = wax paper

[Jose Silva]

https://world.taobao.com/item/537497973501.htm?spm=a312a.7700714.0.0.iMEvGL#detail