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Link doesn't work for me too.
Your picture looks really shi** but I believe it must be better. Maybe other mirror material is really needed. I have ordered some from China and will get it within one week or so so, at some bigger shipment occasion. I'll come back when after some tests.
PS. Mike's link doesn't work for me too.
my main hobby is astronomy and right now I’m playing with spectrography. So thought I would share what I’ve been learning. Take it FWIW
So just an FYI, RGB LED’s don’t’ give a real white, actually no LED gives a real white, I’ve been playing with spectrum of LED compared to true white which the reference is our sun so daylight.
LED’s tend to be very cool or very warm, ie towards the blue or red with dips between the R,G and B colors especially B to G depending on the LED.
The attached is of a typical Cool White LED, you can see its strong in Blue, dips before going Green then Red rolls off
This is not to say to you to not to do this but to be aware unless you can measure it, don’t’ be sure your white is really white.
camera sensors also tend to be more sensitive to some colors that others. Both of these can have effects that you may not get results you’re thinking you’ll get
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my main hobby is astronomy and right now I’m playing with spectrography. So thought I would share what I’ve been learning. Take it FWIW
So just an FYI, RGB LED’s don’t’ give a real white, actually no LED gives a real white, I’ve been playing with spectrum of LED compared to true white which the reference is our sun so daylight.
LED’s tend to be very cool or very warm, ie towards the blue or red with dips between the R,G and B colors especially B to G depending on the LED.
The attached is of a typical Cool White LED, you can see its strong in Blue, dips before going Green then Red rolls off
This is not to say to you to not to do this but to be aware unless you can measure it, don’t’ be sure your white is really white.
camera sensors also tend to be more sensitive to some colors that others. Both of these can have effects that you may not get results you’re thinking you’ll get
From: ope...@googlegroups.com <ope...@googlegroups.com> On Behalf Of Brynn Rogers
Sent: Friday, July 5, 2019 12:47 PM
To: OpenPnP <ope...@googlegroups.com>
Subject: Re: [OpenPnP] Re: Coaxial Lighting
On Friday, July 5, 2019 at 11:19:37 AM UTC-5, John Plocher wrote:> For illumination, I am thinking at an array of white leds
Some articles I’ve seen suggest red monochromatic is better than white for both contrasts and reflections. You may want to play with both mirrors and colors...
John
I would use RGB LEDs, then you can get whatever color you want, and also 'white'
Brynn
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I’m nor sure what you are trying to say.
My reply was about white LEDs are not white (Fact), they either Warm or Cool (towards Red(gives the yellowish look) or Blue)
Sandra
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Sorry if I created confusion. I was thanking Jason about pointing out WS2812 problem, that led chip is creating various luminosity levels by pwm modulation and I forgot that this will interfere with the electronic shutter of the camera.
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My point on monochrome leds was partly the pen issue and the fact that all rugby leds have the 3x components are in different orientations, and can cause slight orientation or focus issues (I.e., the red Light reflection and the blue reflection may be in different places/planes because the emitters are fractions of a mm off center...)Maybe I’m over thinking this...John
On Fri, Jul 5, 2019 at 12:09 PM Florian Chende <chende...@gmail.com> wrote:
Sorry if I created confusion. I was thanking Jason about pointing out WS2812 problem, that led chip is creating various luminosity levels by pwm modulation and I forgot that this will interfere with the electronic shutter of the camera.
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Has anyone tried something like https://www.aliexpress.com/item/COL-40-Machine-Vision-Lamp-Coaxial-Light-Source-38-42mm-Industrial-LED-Lighting-Detection-Source-White/32919890175.html?I've been looking at a lot of examples and it seems like it might be pretty great for top vision, especially, but also bottom vision.I might pick one up and try it out - but I'm also interested in, if it works well, replicating it much cheaper. It's just a black box, a two way mirror and an array of red LEDs.Jason
Hi,
Can anyone recommend me something affordable (paint, material, whatever) which can absorb light?Thanks.
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Black 2.0 is the way to go. Vantablack is all wrapped up in a bunch of licensing BS. Black 2.0 is basically an "open source" protest against Vantablack :)Jason
On Fri, Aug 2, 2019 at 10:56 AM Florian Chende <chende...@gmail.com> wrote:
Looks good but vantablack it's not available to average joe.--Instead I found some paint called 'black 2.0' which looks good for my purpose. I ordered one and now I'm waiting to arrive.
On Friday, August 2, 2019 at 11:25:07 AM UTC+3, Andreas Bergmann wrote:
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You inspired me to try again and the results were much better- with the camera adjusted the 'glare' was dealt with and the result is pretty good. I'll be tweaking a bit more but I think this a good way to go.
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Instead of black felting check out Black 2.0/3.0 available here
This is a extremely flat black, 99+% non-reflective. Cost for the 2.0 is 15.99
This will kill reflections better than felt.
In astronomy we used to use the black felt but it does still cause some reflection, we’ve been moving to this
The other thing we found was the felt wore out over time and began flaking off,
Professionals use vantablack which is only commercially available with license . the Black 2.0/3.0 are equivelent
If you really want to kill reflection, give it a try
Sandra
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Same here with black2.0. However, I had to put an angled surface behind the mirror, a perpendicular one still gave some reflection.In the mean time I managed to build a 3d printed housing.
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I'm not very sure why anybody may need to see so large FOV for the top camera, like mentioned 80 (in fact 40).