If you can't find these sockets, here are two options both of which I have used.
First option is make your own socket. Copy the pin pattern and drill holes in plastic or wood
big enough to fit snugly some appropriately sized plastic wire insulation pieces. Take a length of
#30 gauge kynar insulated, silver plated wirewrap wire with one end stripped sufficiently long to
go through the insulation and loop back on itself and tightly twisted. Put this into the hole.
The tube pins fit snugly down inside the insulation, and touching the silver plated wire.
Make the wires long enough to terminate elsewhere to suit.
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Option #2 is remove the black plastic standoff from the tube. This exposes the wire leads which are just barely
long enough to hand wrap very carefully some of that same #30 ga wirewrap wire onto each tube pin.
Make these wires at each least a few inches long. After getting them all wrapped on there, then terminate the other
ends of these wires to a 14-pin DIP header plug. I make header pin 1 the anode and then pin 2 is tube digit 1.
The tube digits 1-2-3-4-5-6 occupy the left side of the header. Then on the right side it continues with tube digits 7-8-9-0, then
decimal point or points if it has them. These assemblies can be made to stand the tube up and hold it about 1.5 inches off the socket
where the header ends up being plugged in to.
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I have used both of these methods and I think the best one is option #2. Did this 17 times to create a 16-tube array of NL-1220 tubes,
B-5853, B-5870, a mixture of tubes but they all look identical when lit up. The nice thing about hand wrapping wire wrapping directly to the tube
wire pins is there is no heat applied. And then when you solder the other ends of those 30 ga wires to the DIP header, very little and practically no
heat gets through the wire to significantly raise the temperature of the tube pin.
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Anyway that is what I did. I hope this helps. -Chuck