HLK-PM01

[rubli]

I am making a nixie clock from scratch, I am planning to use this module, so I don´t need any bulky tranformer:

http://smart-prototyping.com/Ultra-compact-power-module-HLK-PM01.html

anybody has experience with this power supply ?

thanx !!

[John Rehwinkel]

> I am making a nixie clock from scratch, I am planning to use this module, so I don´t need any bulky tranformer:
>
> http://smart-prototyping.com/Ultra-compact-power-module-HLK-PM01.html
>
> anybody has experience with this power supply ?

While I don't have experience with that one in particular, they are handy for one-part solutions. Note that it is bulkier than many transformers, and is only good for 600mA (not ideal if you're planning on using 7441 style drivers). You'll also need a source of high voltage for the nixies.

- Cheers,
John

[SWISSNIXIE - Jonathan F.]

You want to use this module to get 5V from AC Line?

That would work, but be careful with the AC Line, can be very dangerous.

[alb.001 alb.001]

Why not use a USB-output wall wart made for charging phones and other devices. You can find them at Goodwill, SallyAnnes and many second hand stores for  $1-3. They will be UL, CSA and often universal 110-220v 50/60 hz AC input and 5V output up to 2000mA. Just make slot thru-holes on your board to solder the ac-pins  and output via flying leads which are double insulated. I did this for a project which needed 5V to power a voltmeter module. Way cheaper than designing making your own though they take up some space on your board. You can also just attach the wall wart to the bottom of your case with zip-ties and solder leads to the AC input (I always double insulate the terminals with heat shrink for safety) to save the space on your board.

Thanks Phil B

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[threeneurons]

Most of us, like bringing in low voltage into our nixie clock, or other nixie project. Then boosting that low voltage to the 170V, or more, to power the nixie tubes. That way the bulky "wallcube" stays by the wall outlet, and only a skinny cable goes to our clock.

My major concern with the AC wall power is safety. Fire hazard more than shock hazard. As long as the electronics is enclosed, there should be no, or little electrocution hazards. But the fire hazard remains. If you use a wallcube that passes your local safety agency standards, then the hazard stops at the wall. If the output leads of a "safe" wallcube are shorted, it will never get hot enough to ignite anything, and it usually dies quietly, and safely.

If you do bring the AC line voltage directly into your "box", take measures to reduce the chance of fire. Use a detachable cord, with it's mating connector on your box. Something like an IEC connector. They have cords, with the other plug that matches most of the countries:

This way if somebody kicks the cord, it disconnects the power, instead of pulling internal wires, and causing a short. A fuse, with holder should be added, too, just in case of overload, or short.

Mike Harrison, has a nixie clock that uses 4000 CMOS logic, and draws very little power on the low voltage side. So his, is powered without a transformer. For the high nixie voltage, the AC is simply filtered, and rectified. Nixies don't need a precise voltage. The make sure its over 170V, and that each tube has a current limiting anode resistor. Value of that resistor depends on the nixie tube type, and the actual supply voltage.

[gregebert]

I strongly suggest using the IEC connectors with integrated fuses; it will protect against internal wiring shorts or other bad things that can happen. My most-recent projects use these, but I have not retrofitted all of my older projects.

I have several PCB's that bring raw 120VAC onboard, but the first thing that happens is both the hot & neutral lines are fused with the lowest-rated fuse that will work reliably. Those fuses are located right next to the power connector.

My first nixie clock design also uses 4000 CMOS, with no transformer. Everything is run from the AC line. I added a lot of extra protection (RC filter, varistor, metal fire-barrier in the case, way-over-rated electrolytics). It's worked flawlessly for years.

There's no need to be afraid of line voltage inside your projects; just be sure to use good design practices and plenty of paranoia.

[Jeff Walton]

I designed a Nixie clock using TTL in the early 70’s which used a transformer inside the case along with a voltage doubler circuit for the HV.  It ran nicely for 35 years until it was consumed by a fire.  My best guess is that one of the voltage doubling capacitors failed and ignited.  The clock had a 1A fuse on the transformer primary and secondary, both of which eventually opened but not until after the old paper electrolytic caps heated and ignited the wood and plastic case.  The circuit main breaker (15A) never tripped.  I was lucky to have suffered only smoke damage and a destroyed clock and counter top.

 

While I am not saying that my overall design was horrible, I will no longer bring 120/230v mains voltage into any housing (that runs unattended 24/7) when there are UL/CSA/VDE bricks or wall warts that are thoroughly tested and engineered to eliminate exactly the hazard described above.  While there may be no issues with the module you are looking at, I would not use it because it brings the full main power into your housing.  After my experience, I would prefer to eliminate a melt-down inside of my housing.  The HLK-PM01 does not provide me with the safety factor that a wall wart or brick provides. 

 

IMHO, life is much better when you keep the main away from the inside of your clock.  If you need to use the main as a time base, you can just go with an AC wall wart or use one of many perfectly good crystal based chips or GPS solutions for timing.  Even though I had no problems for 35 years, I blame the presence of the main power, inadequate fuse protection and a design that was intrinsically unsafe, as the reason for the fire. 

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[SWISSNIXIE - Jonathan F.]

If you dont want a wall brick, you could mount a power-supply with a cable (like the laptop ones, that have a cable going to the laptop and one to the mains socket) and directly mount that inside the clock case, maybe takes as much space as a self designed Off-Line supply. There are even some around that can supply different voltages.

I worked with mains AC in my last job (230V up to 1000V), but i would never make a project with mains ac because if i get injured, or my house burns down, no insurance will cover that..

[Nick Sargeant]

I tend to use laptop power supplies to interface with my projects - I am always picking up power supplies as laptops get replaced at work. They usually kick out 19.5v at 4 or 5 amps. I then design in a small switcher to bring that down to 5v for the using application, and put that on the board with the rest of the electronics. I have been using a small L4960 design for *many* years, which gets copied from project to project. That one doesn't get down to 3.3v, so I have had to find another one for more recent designs.

[threeneurons]

On Thursday, June 30, 2016 at 4:57:12 AM UTC-7, Nick Sargeant wrote:

I tend to use laptop power supplies to interface with my projects -  They usually kick out 19.5v at 4 or 5 amps.

Going on a tangent, this brings up something that happened to me a couple of years ago. I was at the TRW swapmeet, looking to get an old laptop supply, to use on a project that needed that kind of power. I was expecting to pay no more than $5, for one. I went to one vendor, and he quoted $15 ! - Why ? - Answer: "$5 for the supply $10, for not buying it, when you bought the laptop." I bought one for $5, at another vendor.

Back to the original topic. There's a reason most of us go with an external "wallcube" or "wallwart". Mostly, we don't want our houses to burn down.

There is a way to get 5V from unregulated 12V (9-16V), and found at most dollar stores. Get the USB car chargers, that plug into the cigarette lighter socket. Almost all of them use the old MC34063 chip, and they don't get as hot as the 7805. 

Just open them up, and use the board. 

  

[rubli]

thank you for all who responded, I am now more concerned that I was about to use a similar supply as Mike Harrison used for his nixie project, I guess I need something more "safe", I have seen several designs using a 555, but its supply wants more than 5 volts.

has anybody used such designs using 5 volts of supply ?

I am making a PCB for my clock, and plan to make several, I´d wish to mount the components of such 170v supply on board..

(BTW my designs does not expose any conection to the user)

thank you

regards

Alexander