Some of you may remember the issues I have had with cathode poisioning on my in18 clock. I have been using a heathkit ip17 to repair the cathodes which has had some success, though the positioning has creeped back in most cases.
One thing I have noticed is the tubes seem to light better/more evenly with the dc current from the ip17 than the PSU in the clock. It has had me wondering if there is something to the pulsating dc used in these modern clocks to control brightness, perhaps this can cause some tubes to develop poisioning more quickly? I ask because I can have a tube run for hours on the ip17 at 5mA then on the clock at the same current the same digit is poisioned within an hour or less. Why wold this occur?
1) Measured between the annode and anode resistor.
2) On the clock I dont know, I'd have to lift the resistor again and check. On my heathkit 5mA is about 140ish volts. I have a 10k potentiometer installed between the PSU and annode.
3) No idea, I don't have a scope.
5) I have discussed this issue with the creator. Chalked up to in18 being prone to poisioning. I'd prefer not to mention the design. My intention is not to call into question the design, rather discuss pulsating vs continuous dc.
6) Healing was done 10mA at about 149v for 30 min-2 hours depending. I expect their ability to heal will diminish.
7) These are all 1981 tubes. Some are failing, some are chugging along seemingly without issue so far. (Clock running since January 2017)
On the subject of scopes and grounding, is there some reading I should do? I do like to be cautious around these high voltages.
The scrolling date and temperature, if you have them enabled, effectively function as an anti-poisoning routine on the Nixichron. I received mine in October 2011, installed some 9102 date-code nixies and it’s run 24x7 ever since, except for the odd power failure, with no signs of poisoning at all. Other than the scrolling date and temperature, mine only dims from 21:00-07:00 but I can’t remember what my wake and sleep brightness are set to.
Cheers,
Scott.
From: 'Terry S' via neonixie-l [mailto:neoni...@googlegroups.com]
Sent: Tuesday, 30 May 2017 11:47 PM
To: neonixie-l
Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Pulsed DC vs direct DC in cathode poisioned
If the tubes show signs of poisoning within hours, something is seriously wrong with the tubes, not the clock.
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Nixie tubes that are run with too low driving current are very susceptible to cathode poisoning. Glowing cathodes sputter. The sputtering is what causes the gas to glow. The reason for running within spec range is that when the cathodes are properly driven, the cathode that is operating will be driven hard enough so that it will drive off impurities that have been deposited on the surface of the cathode. Driving the cathode at too low current will not allow the normal operation to drive off cumulative deposits from sputtering of other cathodes.
These cathode deposits can occur from:
· Long term storage when impurities in the tube will contaminate the cathode surfaces. This is why tubes that are NOS and in boxes since 70’s and 80’s will often need to be run for some time in order to get them to completely glow on all cathodes.
· Running at too low current means that the cathodes cannot properly “clean” themselves from deposits of adjacent cathode sputtering. Higher currents cause higher excitation of the gas and “heating” of the cathode in operation. The higher excitation and heat cause the contaminants to be driven off of the surface of the cathode in operation.
Running a tube at currents higher than the normal ratings will cause more overall sputtering but cathodes can clean themselves better. That is why higher currents are used to “de-poison” or “clean” a cathode which does not glow completely due to the contamination on the surface from sputtering or impurities in the gas. The downside to high current operation is that the tube life will be shortened significantly if driven too hard for long periods of time.
The conclusion is that reducing the drive current below the tube spec is NOT the way to prevent cathode poisoning, it will actually cause the problem.
Also, pulsed current drive requires higher current levels during the pulse than continuous drive to achieve the same brightness. The debate is in the physics of operation and whether the pulsed current times duty cycle has an equivalent effect to constant current of the same computed value. There is a case to be made that a pulsed tube actually is less susceptible to cathode poisoning but there is insufficient data regarding the long term life of the tube for pulsed vs constant current. I have read conflicting opinions over the usable life of the same nixie using the different drive techniques for operation.
My experience is that a nixie tube operated in spec, with good seals AND mercury doping can run for more than 30 years, as evidenced by a clock that I built in the early 70’s which ran continuously for over 35 years without tube failure. The brightness was lower after 35 years and some of that was attributed to silvering on the inside of the glass envelope after many years of operation.
From: neoni...@googlegroups.com [mailto:neoni...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Tomasz Kowalczyk
Sent: Thursday, June 1, 2017 3:45 AM
To: neonixie-l
Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Pulsed DC vs direct DC in cathode poisioned
There is no "economical" model of a true oscilloscope. You might use some sort of audio card oscilloscope, but with such voltages you have to be very careful not to burn your PC - for example, use a voltage divider made of 330k and 1k resistors (1k between GND and audio card input and 330k from audio card input to HV). This + some software (there are many audio card oscilloscope programs) should do the work for frequencies from audio range (20Hz-20kHz). I would also place two standard diodes in series, anode to audio input and cathode to ground - cheap and rather reliable way to produce a ~1,4V voltage limit.
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I did a lot of depoisioning over the last few days and the tubes (six in total) are mostly clear now so it will be interesting to see if they start poisioning again. They are all 1981 dated tubes purchased as nos.
To reinterate:
HV supply is putting out 170v
5mA after the annode resistors measured with a multimeter.
I have not taken a voltage before and after the anode resistor (10k) but perhaps I should?
I have an entire box of 1988 and 1991 dated tubes at my disposal but I'd rather not simply replace these expensive tubes especially if my problem may be with the clock, for fear of ruining another batch.