Nice clocks! And the features list of your software is impressive.
I want to switch from the ATmega328p to the ESP32 for future projects. That’s why I’m currently building a word clock and trying to learn as much as possible about this module. No single line of code yet, I don’t even know if the controller works… waiting for a 3.3V FTDI board and looking forward to start writing the software.
Just tested the display board, seems to work fine. My only concern is that the short segments are slightly brighter than the long ones. Maybe I can fix it adding some resistors to the brighter rows (segments) …like the cathode resistors for the B-7971…
The case was too wide for my 3D printer, I had to make two halves…
I will only make this one, no kits from my side :-)
Thanks for pointing out the HT16K33 issue with big displays!
I’m currently designing a self-made 16 segment display. The limit of my 3D printer is 250mm (9.8”) but I will start with 140 x 100mm (5.5”). First, I wanted to use a HT16K33. After your comment, I thought to use some mosfet to increase the current. But finally, I've decided to use an ATmega328p in I2C slave mode and RGB 5050 LEDs. That needs a lot more current, but I think it’s nice to have full color control.
Thanks for pointing out the HT16K33 issue with big displays!
I’m currently designing a self-made 16 segment display. The limit of my 3D printer is 250mm (9.8”) but I will start with 140 x 100mm (5.5”). First, I wanted to use a HT16K33. After your comment, I thought to use some mosfet to increase the current. But finally, I've decided to use an ATmega328p in I2C slave mode and RGB 5050 LEDs. That needs a lot more current, but I think it’s nice to have full color control.
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Thanks for pointing out the HT16K33 issue with big displays!
I’m currently designing a self-made 16 segment display. The limit of my 3D printer is 250mm (9.8”) but I will start with 140 x 100mm (5.5”). First, I wanted to use a HT16K33. After your comment, I thought to use some mosfet to increase the current. But finally, I've decided to use an ATmega328p in I2C slave mode and RGB 5050 LEDs. That needs a lot more current, but I think it’s nice to have full color control.
Here is the STL file. This is just a quick and dirty prototype, the segments are not correctly aligned.
I got the idea from the franlab youtube channel, only 7 segments but really nice design. You can also find some of this 3D printed segment displays on Tinkercad.
Is there a web site for the" WordClock-2 with 2.3" displays"?
On Tue, Nov 5, 2019 at 6:35 AM newxito <axt...@gmail.com> wrote:
--Thanks for pointing out the HT16K33 issue with big displays!
I’m currently designing a self-made 16 segment display. The limit of my 3D printer is 250mm (9.8”) but I will start with 140 x 100mm (5.5”). First, I wanted to use a HT16K33. After your comment, I thought to use some mosfet to increase the current. But finally, I've decided to use an ATmega328p in I2C slave mode and RGB 5050 LEDs. That needs a lot more current, but I think it’s nice to have full color control.
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That sounds quite complicated, thanks for sharing!
Here is the working 16 segment display. The board has 27 LEDs (5050). For the led diffusers, I reversed the 3d design and used translucent filament. No glue is needed, the diffusers can just be pressed into the case, they fit perfectly. Still experimenting with the thickness and quality, I started with 3mm, low quality (photo). Probably I will end up with 2mm diffusers, maybe with 3mm spots just over the LEDs.
If all LEDs are set to max brightness, the display draws about 1A. I’m planning an 8-digit word clock, so I will use a 10A power supply to be on the safe side.
Love it.
We demand more details and pics! ;)
Where da kits at?
Michail Wilson
From: neoni...@googlegroups.com [mailto:neoni...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of newxito
Sent: Wednesday, November 13, 2019 11:05 AM
To: neonixie-l
Subject: [neonixie-l] Re: WordClock-2 with 2.3" displays
Here is the working 16 segment display. The board has 27 LEDs (5050). For the led diffusers, I reversed the 3d design and used translucent filament. No glue is needed, the diffusers can just be pressed into the case, they fit perfectly. Still experimenting with the thickness and quality, I started with 3mm, low quality (photo). Probably I will end up with 2mm diffusers, maybe with 3mm spots just over the LEDs.
If all LEDs are set to max brightness, the display draws about 1A. I’m planning an 8-digit word clock, so I will use a 10A power supply to be on the safe side.
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I don’t think WodClock-2 exists in the wild yet.
-1 exists here….. http://angryelectrons.co/wordclock-1
Michail Wilson
From: neoni...@googlegroups.com [mailto:neoni...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Nathan Diniz
Sent: Thursday, November 14, 2019 8:44 AM
To: neonixie-l
Subject: [neonixie-l] Re: WordClock-2 with 2.3" displays
Anyone got a website I can go to where I can get the documentation for this? This is an incredible thing!!!
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I don’t think WodClock-2 exists in the wild yet.
-1 exists here….. http://angryelectrons.co/wordclock-1
Michail Wilson
From: neoni...@googlegroups.com [mailto:neoni...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Nathan Diniz
Sent: Thursday, November 14, 2019 8:44 AM
To: neonixie-l
Subject: [neonixie-l] Re: WordClock-2 with 2.3" displays
Anyone got a website I can go to where I can get the documentation for this? This is an incredible thing!!!
--
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On Dec 21, 2019, at 08:35, Michail Wilson <M...@michail.com> wrote:
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Thanks, Nick!