Clean car power

[Paul Andrews]

I want to power a nixie device from a car power socket - the things that used to house cigarette lighters. I figure I need to clean up the power, as well as source an adapter and probably a cable with a power plug on the end. I seem to have a few options:

1. Use a 5V USB adapter
2. Use a multi-voltage adapter like this one
3. Build a power sanitizer from a resistor, diode and capacitor as suggested in this post on the arduino forums, and feed it to a 5V regulator.

Is the power provided to a modern car power port that dirty to start with? Would either of the adapters (1 and 2) likely provide clean power? Option 3 appeals to the DIYer in me, but would end up being more expensive than the other two. OTH, I could eventually build it all into one enclosure if I end up going that far.

I guess another question is: Would the power provided to an ODB2 port be clean?

[Adrian Pardini]

What are the power requirements of your nixie gadget?
(and how much do you want to spend on this too?)

Regards

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Adrián Pardini

[Дмитрий Шевченко]

When I worked at IC desing center, old automotive engeneer said me that scheme must be withstand Power surges 100V.

пт, 9 окт. 2020 г. в 05:54, Adrian Pardini <pardo...@gmail.com>:

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[Paul Andrews]

Around 3W. I would like to spend as little as possible, this is just a proof of concept, but I don’t want the electronics destroyed!

> On Oct 8, 2020, at 10:54 PM, Adrian Pardini <pardo...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> What are the power requirements of your nixie gadget?

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[J Forbes]

Old cars had really dirty power. Modern cars are better. But still, you might want to put a scope on the power socket and drive around and see what you get.

[David Pye]

Interestingly, my electric vehicle has pretty decently clean power, as there's a 12V lead acid battery, which is float-charged by a DC-DC converter from the HV traction battery.

David

On Fri, 9 Oct 2020 at 14:29, J Forbes <jfor...@gmail.com> wrote:

Old cars had really dirty power. Modern cars are better. But still, you might want to put a scope on the power socket and drive around and see what you get.

When I worked at IC desing center, old automotive engeneer said me that scheme must be withstand Power surges 100V.

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[Dekatron42]

Have you looked at what the different chip manufacturers offer? Most of them are involved with this nowadays in one way or the other, for instance Maxim have this to say in one of their application notes: https://www.maximintegrated.com/en/design/technical-documents/app-notes/4/4213.html

VIN Range: The voltage transient range on a 12V battery powerline determines the input voltage range of converter ICs.

A typical car battery operates in the 9V to 16V range. The nominal voltage of a healthy battery is 12V when the engine is off, and around 14.4V when the engine is on. This range, however, easily extends to ±100V when the transient conditions are involved. For the full specification of these transients, please refer to the ISO7637-1 industry standard. Figures 1 and 2 are part of this ISO7637 standard and outline the most critical conditions that need to be addressed by a high-voltage converter in an automotive power supply. Besides the ISO7637-1, there are new transient conditions defined for battery-operated or environmentally friendly gas engines. Most of the new specifications are driven by individual OEMs and do not necessarily follow an industry standard. Nonetheless, overvoltage and undervoltage protection are required for all new systems.


Figure 1. A cold crank profile.


Figure 2. A load dump profile.

/Martin

[Robert G. Schaffrath]

I have a 1st generation Honda Insight hybrid made in 2000. It has a DC-DC converter that produces very clean power (it takes the 144 VDC and down converts it to high amperage 12-14 VDC). The voltage does swing between approximately 12.1 VDC to 14.1 VDC which is the normal range for an automobile and has never been an issue with any device I have used. Cars I see now include at least one or more USB power jacks so you can also get decent 5 VDC too in those cases. My sister's Hyundai has front and rear seat USB jacks (and there never seem to be enough of them LOL).

[newxito]

In my clock boards I use the LTC4365 for under, over and reverse voltage protection. In my setup, it shuts down if the voltage goes under 11.5V or over 13.2V. One of the applications mentioned in the datasheet is Automotive Surge Protection.

[Paul Andrews]

I found the TL750M voltage regulator, which looks like it would do most of what I want. I also bought a few adapters from Amazon. The first turned out to be just a straight pass-thru from the power socket to a barrel connector. I bought two of the second one because it was more promising and I wanted to take it apart - I wasn't sure if that would destroy it. It turned out to be a lot more than I might have expected for $13. It is basically a buck converter, with the voltage output controlled by the little control unit. I figure this should filter out most of the crap. The controller is a chip called the XL4201. Here's some pics of the innards: