Hello people,
I have recently discovered the world of Nixie tubes.
My first clock was based around 6 x IN-12 and 2 x IN-15A tubes, controlled via 8 x K155id binary converters, using an Arduino Mega 2560.
Powered by a 12v to +200V DC-DC Boost Converter. All of the above worked fine with acceptable brightness of the tubes.
The photo is the DC-DC boost converter I am using.

I use Direct drive to power the tubes, having a separate 12V to 5V step down converter to supply the 5V for each K155id converter and the Arduino Mega.
I have now moved onto my next clock which is largely based around the first clock with the exception that I am using 6 x IN-18 tubes.
Wiring and testing each tube, using 170V as the Strike Voltage and touching each pin with the cathode with a 20K ohm resistor in series,
confirmed that each digit lit to an acceptable brightness.
With the clock fully wired and powered using the same 12V to +200V DC-DC boost converter, I have set the output voltage to 170V,
however some of the tube’s digits do not fully illuminate, especially the 8 and 9, similar to cathode positioning. What I have found is
that no matter what I set the DC-DC boost converter to, as output voltage, a multimeter only reads 148V, with an anode voltage of 130V to 133V,
based on each anode having a 20K ohm resistor in series.
I believe that if I could increase the anode voltage from say 130V to between 140V to 150V this problem of partial illumination will be corrected.
I also suspect that the DC-DC Boost converter I am using cannot supply the necessary current in order to support these six tubes.My understanding
is that these tubes need typically 6.5mA.
I only have a very basic multi-meter and no oscilloscope.
I would be most grateful for any help with the above, I am sure that extra information is necessary, so happy to provide it.
With the clock fully wired and powered using the same 12V to +200V DC-DC boost converter, I have set the output voltage to 170V,
however some of the tube’s digits do not fully illuminate, especially the 8 and 9, similar to cathode positioning. What I have found is
that no matter what I set the DC-DC boost converter to, as output voltage, a multimeter only reads 148V, with an anode voltage of 130V to 133V,
based on each anode having a 20K ohm resistor in series.