Just won auction for idk what yet?

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Bill Notfaded

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Aug 10, 2019, 5:05:11 AM8/10/19
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Dekatron42

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Aug 10, 2019, 5:22:22 AM8/10/19
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It's a clock, says so in the title "Röhrenuhr" = "Tube clock".

/Martin

Bill Notfaded

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Aug 10, 2019, 5:50:52 AM8/10/19
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I actually hope it is a clock... It's kinda neat and different. Of course I'll most likely have to change the power to US standards. Hopefully I can do that without too much trouble. I've never had red 1040's either all my tubes like that are Z566M's.

Bill

Dekatron42

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Aug 10, 2019, 8:32:08 AM8/10/19
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From the looks of the photos (circuit board ic's and buttons on the back) It's probably something like one of the usual TTL clocks.

/Martin

【ツ】John Smout

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Aug 10, 2019, 8:47:56 AM8/10/19
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Single tube test tube clocks with a number of different fading routines. A red and yellow led slowly cross-fade through orange under the tube.

The feet look alumin(i)um, but are actually steel with a coating, so quite heavy, which helps stability. The feet were sold as drawer knobs. The ball base is 3D printed in PLA in two halves and sprayed a gunmetal colo(u)r.

Not really a saleable commodity, as the borosilicate glass is very fragile.


John S

Paul Andrews

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Aug 10, 2019, 9:52:59 AM8/10/19
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You’re lucky I let you win it ;-)

Bill Notfaded

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Aug 10, 2019, 10:56:14 AM8/10/19
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Wow that's really neat John!  Interesting idea.

Bill

Bill Notfaded

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Aug 10, 2019, 11:11:24 AM8/10/19
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Awe I didn't know you were in there still Paul there were a LOT of bidders.  I'm really interested in your single tube clock with the upgrades you've made to it like ability to run B-7971 tubes and adapter for four tubes.  I've got a lot of neat stuff so maybe we can work something out or a trade.  I didn't see any links for the solder mask for the board just a link to the company.  I've been trying to figure out how to build it.  I shouldn't complain... Just the fact that your updated code is on GitHub is really a LOT.  Quick question... Can I mix the A and B tubes on your ITS-1x clock?  I've got one built with A tubes and one of them looks a little weird... All I have right now are the B tubes.

Look at the second tube from the right.

I'm in a good mood I just fixed an HP DMM that wasn't working at all last night!  It's still pretty dang close to cal'd too.  I checked with my voltage reference.



Thanks,

Bill

On Sat, Aug 10, 2019, 6:53 AM Paul Andrews <pa...@nixies.us> wrote:
You’re lucky I let you win it ;-)

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Bill Notfaded

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Aug 10, 2019, 11:17:33 AM8/10/19
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Here's a video that shows the issue better:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/7aKUMUf62ZJf63VY6

Bill

Paul Andrews

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Aug 10, 2019, 11:24:39 AM8/10/19
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Yes, I wasn’t a serious bidder. Still it seems like you got a good deal. I’ve never seen red ZM1040s before.

re. one-tube-clock, PM me. I’m a little snowed-under with projects at the moment, but let’s see if we can work something out.

re. ITS1A clock. I don’t know if an ITS1B would appear the same. From what I can see in the datasheet, the only difference is the maximum control voltage (5V for ITS1B?), so it should work fine. I guess the question is how much does it bother you? If you decide to swap it out, I’ve found that using scissors is the easiest way to snip through the leads. Don’t snip close to the PCB, then you can just use a soldering iron and some needle-nose pliers to get the remains of the leads out of the holes.

To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/CADToqn0c%2BjLV%2Bbm98N5w1%2B2VihctKqXvJwidfQGtSSbgHgKKDw%40mail.gmail.com.
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Paul Andrews

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Aug 10, 2019, 11:30:37 AM8/10/19
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! From the video it looks like there are multiple problems (the tens of minutes digit and the hours digit are flickering every time the seconds changes). I wonder if they are all caused by the one tube? As far as the other digits are concerned, have you tried messing with the timings in the GUI?
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Bill Notfaded

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Aug 10, 2019, 11:31:22 AM8/10/19
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Thanks for the tips Paul!

Bill Notfaded

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Aug 10, 2019, 11:32:35 AM8/10/19
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Actually that was my next thing to try... Mess with the timings to see if I can get the flicker to go away.

Bill

Bill Notfaded

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Aug 10, 2019, 11:34:22 AM8/10/19
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Also... I've got a bunch of B tubes so I might just replace them all... I'll try the one first and messing with the frequencies.

Bill

Dekatron42

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Aug 10, 2019, 12:06:41 PM8/10/19
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You could also try to lower the voltages on the Anode and other supply voltages to the ITS-tubes to check if the problem goes away, aim for 230V, 90V and 36V if at all possible without modification - looking at Paul's schematic it seems like they are controlled by zeners so not easily adjustable unless you replace the zeners.

Most Russians that I've talked to say that the ITS1A/B work a lot better at lower voltages (especially the ITS1A), and you should also be sure not to let them draw excess current on the second Anode which happens if the Thyratron in the ITS1A/B is driven improperly, you can of course also limit the current on the other pins by suitable resistors, one resistor per tube that is, and you should also make sure that the control voltage is in the correct range for the ITS1A.

Looking at some panels with these from Russian original designs they have incorporated these current limiting resistors just behind the ITS1A/B tubes as well as zeners protecting them from over voltage and sometimes also ordinary diodes to protect them from reverse voltages if the Thyratron fires in an erroneous mode (one set of components per tube that is).

I've built a few of the Russian designs with both ITS1A and ITS1B tubes and I've use the lower set of voltages and never had any mishaps. But before that when I experimented myself I could see that the Thyratrons misfired but fortunately I had the electrodes current limited with resistors so they weren't damaged as far as I could see, they behaved normally after turning of the voltages.

/Martin

Bill Notfaded

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Aug 10, 2019, 12:29:50 PM8/10/19
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For that it's worth I have to travel to Dedham, MA mid September for some work. I gotta install a NetApp NAS and a stack of new Cisco catalyst 9300 switches. I'm not looking forward to that traffic around the airport there!

Bill

Michail Wilson

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Aug 10, 2019, 3:34:36 PM8/10/19
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https://imgur.com/a/QLszW69

The issue I have with the clocks is that the MC is running at 100%, so it's difficult to connect to in order to make changes.

I've run into many problems with the tubes I have been getting. From outgassed, to rusted legs, to simply not firing or shorted internal segments. Uggg. Even had a couple outgas days after installing.

As for desoldering, I use a Hakko. I like to save money just like everyone else; however, this is now my favorite tool. It's fricken awesome.

Michail Wilson
206-920-6312
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Paul Andrews

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Aug 10, 2019, 5:10:46 PM8/10/19
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That’s a lot of clocks!

Naturally I haven’t had any problems connecting to my clock. Are you connecting directly to the access point or to the host name after it is connected to your router?

> On Aug 10, 2019, at 12:29 PM, Bill Notfaded <notf...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> For that it's worth I have to travel to Dedham, MA mid September for some work. I gotta install a NetApp NAS and a stack of new Cisco catalyst 9300 switches. I'm not looking forward to that traffic around the airport there!
>
> Bill
>
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Michail Wilson

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Aug 10, 2019, 9:20:27 PM8/10/19
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Paul,

I think you were responding to me.

I was connecting to the clock directly since I had not yet put in wifi settings.
So, iPhone to clock directly.

Blue light on ESP-01 is constantly on (busy).

Michail Wilson
206-920-6312

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Paul Andrews

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Aug 10, 2019, 9:48:23 PM8/10/19
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Yes, I’ve noticed that direct connection can be a little flaky. The blue light will go off if you turn the back light and underlight off, but that won’t make a direct connection more responsive. Connecting via a router works much better.
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Bill Notfaded

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Aug 11, 2019, 11:05:04 PM8/11/19
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I'm excited to what Ian comes up with modifying your design. Really neat these tubes are!

Bill

Tyler Bourne

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Aug 12, 2019, 1:53:57 PM8/12/19
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I have a few of these tubes as well.  I've been looking for a good schematic for a ITS1A clock.

Michail Wilson

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Aug 12, 2019, 2:08:28 PM8/12/19
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From: neoni...@googlegroups.com [mailto:neoni...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Tyler Bourne
Sent: Monday, August 12, 2019 10:54 AM
To: neonixie-l
Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Just won auction for idk what yet?

 

I have a few of these tubes as well.  I've been looking for a good schematic for a ITS1A clock.

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Tyler Bourne

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Aug 13, 2019, 3:14:50 PM8/13/19
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I was thinking of adapting that schematic.  I'll have to take another look at it and see if it's taking what is being said above into account.

On Monday, August 12, 2019 at 2:08:28 PM UTC-4, M1 wrote:
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