Re: [neonixie-l] Digest for neonixie-l@googlegroups.com - 8 updates in 1 topic

[Ryan B]

I accidentally bought these once thinking it was the kind used for IN-2, IN-18, Z566M,  etc. The hole is too small to accept the pin but does fit a wire, 0.8mm. I've seen 3D printed sockets that take these and you solder them to the wire nubs of pulled wire nixies in order to create a socket.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/174310210331

Ryan

On Wed, Mar 3, 2021, 11:43 PM <neoni...@googlegroups.com> wrote:

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• NIXIE TUBE SOCKETS - 8 Updates

NIXIE TUBE SOCKETS

Jon <deka...@nomotron.com>: Mar 03 12:20AM -0800 Not sure the IN14 spacers on their own help the OP's question.   As I understand it, ZM1000 do have pins and were (unusually) designed to be either soldered in or socketed. You can still find the original sockets for sale - a quick Google throws up this listing as the first hit: https://www.ebay.com/itm/ZM1000-Nixie-Tube-Socket-/302926727122 (usual disclaimers apply).   IN14 and IN16 have wire terminals designed to be soldered and I am not aware of any original sockets for these. The wires are quite soft and flexible. I'd imagine they wouldn't have the mechanical rigidity to work well as pins even if cut short - very likely to bend. If you are absolutely set on socketing these tubes, then one way might be to 3D print a custom spacer to arrange the wires into a DIL array (ie two parallel rows of connections each 0.1" apart, the rows spaced 0.3" apart), cut the ends of the wires so you have 5mm or so protruding from the spacer, and then insert the assembly into a 14 or 16 pin ZIF socket (available from Mouser, Farnell etc, but also on eBay much cheaper).   I've not tried it - suspect it'd just be a lot simpler and possibly cheaper to buy two sets of tubes - one to solder in and one to keep as a reserve! They don't fail very often in a properly designed circuit.   Jon.

Richard Scales <ric...@scalesweb.co.uk>: Mar 03 03:46AM -0800 For all wired tubes i would mount them on something like the tube cells from the PV Electronics QTC clocks which would then allow you to Quickly Change the Tube! As previously mentioned, the wires on these tubes can be very soft and liable to breaking off at the tube base - nobody wants that. I tend to design 'tube cell' PCBs that match the position of all the wires perfectly - least strain on the tubes. I have seen others mount tubes on to DIL headers and plug them in to DIL sockets. The ZM1000 fit a 0.1" pitch so something like turned pin IC sockets can be used to make a socket. I have made ZM1000 tube cells for QTC Clocks. - Richard     On Wednesday, 3 March 2021 at 08:20:14 UTC Jon wrote:

Paul Andrews <pa...@nixies.us>: Mar 03 04:33AM -0800 I use some milk-max sockets. Contrary to what others have said, I find that the tube leads are stiff enough to be pushed in to these when cut short. You still have to make your own PCB though. Here is an example <https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/xD4cGoKd>. The MillMax part number is on the second image. It is fair to say though that if your concern is replacing bad tubes, then just using a separate board for the tubes should be sufficient.   For the ZM1000, I think the turned socket strips, like this one, would be a good solution - these might work for the other tubes too. https://www.ebay.com/itm/8-WAY-SOCKET-STRIP-TURNED-PIN-TAICOM-QTY-10-/124448142756?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292 On Wednesday, March 3, 2021 at 1:51:50 AM UTC-5 MrThe50sanchez wrote:

peter bunge <bung...@gmail.com>: Mar 03 09:29AM -0500 I bought some Ebay sockets and bent the pins to fit (IN16). They do plug in: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/1X-IN14-IN-14-Gold-Plated-Tube-Socket-Nixie-Colck-Tube-Base-Tube-Fixer-Assembled/312831469485?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649   [image: IN16 Module 1.jpg] [image: IN16 Module 4.jpg]

Toby Thain <to...@telegraphics.com.au>: Mar 03 10:02AM -0500 On 2021-03-03 7:33 a.m., Paul Andrews wrote: > is on the second image. It is fair to say though that if your concern is > replacing bad tubes, then just using a separate board for the tubes > should be sufficient.   Have been looking into these options for a small CRT and will probably design a small OSHpark PCB like this one.     > be a good solution - these might work for the other tubes > too. https://www.ebay.com/itm/8-WAY-SOCKET-STRIP-TURNED-PIN-TAICOM-QTY-10-/124448142756?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292 > <https://www.ebay.com/itm/8-WAY-SOCKET-STRIP-TURNED-PIN-TAICOM-QTY-10-/124448142756?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292>   These are also available in solder cup termination, which might help people soldering wires.   As an alternative to using milled pins, there are spring connectors which seem to work well too, e.g.:   Digi-Key Part Number SAM1011-01-ND Samtec Inc. BCS-101-L-S-TE 1 Position Receptacle Connector Through Hole Gold     I am planning to use these on the 8LK3B crt base socket pcb as long as spacing allows (there are 7 pins in a 6.8mm radius).   --Toby

Toby Thain <to...@telegraphics.com.au>: Mar 03 10:29AM -0500 On 2021-03-03 10:02 a.m., Toby Thain wrote: > ... > spacing allows (there are 7 pins in a 6.8mm radius).   I mean DIAMETER...

gregebert <greg...@hotmail.com>: Mar 03 08:55AM -0800 I use the connector pins frequently listed on Ebay as nixie tube socket pins, then 3D-print a collar. They have low insertion force and work on a wide range of tubes (IN-18, NIMO, b7971, R|Z568m, 5092, and probably many others).   My first 2 nixie projects used ceramic sockets, and they have a very high insertion/removal force which I fear could damage these irreplaceable tubes.   On Wednesday, March 3, 2021 at 7:29:22 AM UTC-8 Toby Thain wrote:

Toby Thain <to...@telegraphics.com.au>: Mar 03 12:35PM -0500 On 2021-03-03 11:55 a.m., gregebert wrote:   > My first 2 nixie projects used ceramic sockets, and they have a very > high insertion/removal force which I fear could damage these > irreplaceable tubes.   I suspect the Samtec spring socket part that I cited might help that problem. I would guess milled pins need greater insertion force.   --Toby

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[Richard Scales]

In my experience there are generally two sizes in use. 

1mm for tubes like IN-12,  IN-18, Z566, B-7971 etc

0.75mm for tubes like NL5441

It looks like your parts are for the tubes with the smaller pins like the NL5441 etc.

Oddly, I too accidently bought a pack of the smaller ones which I had hanging around for ages. Finally I found I needed them for NL5441 and I ended up having to buy more!

- Richard