OK, I've repurposed 2 gun assemblies. Let me describe the process. As
y'all found out the indirectly heated cathode is coated with a
strontium/barium/calcium carbonate mixture. During processing this is
turned into oxides by simply heating the filament while under vacuum.
When vented to air, the oxides can do one of two things. Return to
carbonates or absorb moisture and turn to hydroxides. The later process
essentially ruins the cathode because the hydroxides are hygroscopic
enough to liquefy and drip off the cathode.
The solution is to ensure that CO2 gets to the cathode first. I do that
by bathing the area where I drill the vent hole with dry CO2.
Once vented, I cut the neck using a hot wire cutter. The first couple I
did I then sealed some 25mm neon tubing onto the assembly, drew a vacuum
and sealed it off. I had to heat the assembly in an oven to about 400
deg prior to that to keep the moisture from the flame from condensing in
the cool parts. That was a pain, involving handling the assembly in
gloves and so on.
what I've done on my last few is cork the open end of the assembly with
a silicone rubber cork and then place it with others in a Cambro
air-tight container that I purged with CO2 and include a desiccant pack.
The Cambro is a restaurant container made of clear polycarb and is very
useful in the shop.
http://www.webstaurantstore.com/3095/square-clear-food-storage-containers-lids.html
When ready to use, heat the assembly as above, seal it off to the tube
of interest and immediately pull a vacuum. The vacuum doesn't have to
be high. Just enough to get rid of the water vapor of combustion.
Include a new getter in the assembly. I use a 10mm getter with a copper
stem that can be sealed directly into the glass.
Make up your tube, evacuate to as high a vacuum as possible, illuminate
the the filament to yellow red heat and seal off the tube. Fire the
getter AFTER sealing off the tube using an induction heater and you're
ready to go.
John