Shaft Seals?

[Paul Kekalos]

Hey all!

Well, the "dripless shaft seal" is dripping. Current model is a PSS from PYI. Ive tried cleaning, burping, etc, but still, it leaks. The currentunit is nearly 14 years old, so it seems like maybe its done its job. Anyway, may be time to replace. Wondering if anyone has tried any of the other shaft seal options (Lasdrop, Glide, etc...) or has any thoughts about replacement?

Appreciate any thoughts.

-PK

[Michael Moradzadeh]

That's a definite need service item.  They need it every five years or so or, they tell me, there is a risk of catastrophic failure.

Had I known that when I put in the last one, I'd have stuck with the stuffing box!

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[Chris Campbell]

I recently had mine leak also, and managed to stop the leak by moving the bellows closer to the collar to increase the pressure on the seal. In my case it was caused by getting a line snagged around the prop and almost certainly moving the shaft in the coupling, but it was easy enough to stop it by pushing the two elements of the seal closer together. I have no idea if that'll work to solve a leak caused by wear, of course. I do know that I've not serviced it myself in the four years I've owned it, so it's on the list for service and/or replacement this winter.

[David Jade]

I'd be cautious about doing that. It is those bellows that need preventative replacing every 5-7 years (depending on the model). The seals wear out as well. When the bellow fail or lose their springiness, that's where you can get a catastrophic failure and a leak that is hard to plug. Also, if you just move the collar back to increase the tension and re-used the set screws, that's another no-no. They are single use only and have to be replaced. They should also be doubled (one stack on another in each hole). Again, if they slip it's a hard hole to plug. It is also good to have a second, backup shaft retaining collar on there as well. They make one for this purpose or you can use a hose clamp in a pinch.

[Joe Murli]

Gave up and went back to conventional packing. Simple and effective. 

Joe Murli

“Sirena Bella” J44

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 1, 2025, at 6:15 AM, Chris Campbell <camp...@ramoak.com> wrote:

I recently had mine leak also, and managed to stop the leak by moving the bellows closer to the collar to increase the pressure on the seal. In my case it was caused by getting a line snagged around the prop and almost certainly moving the shaft in the coupling, but it was easy enough to stop it by pushing the two elements of the seal closer together. I have no idea if that'll work to solve a leak caused by wear, of course. I do know that I've not serviced it myself in the four years I've owned it, so it's on the list for service and/or replacement this winter.

To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/j4x-owners-group/aef120d1-84db-4769-8c72-9edc159b7f75n%40googlegroups.com.

[Dick York]

I have the Volvo (?) seal on my 2000 J/46.  Still working fine (knock on wood).  One thing you should do is get grease under the bellows.  Volvo used to make a packet of grease, a bit larger than a soy sauce packet, where you could cut the corner off and slip it between the seal and the shaft, then squeeze the grease in there.  

I have forced grease in there with the tip of a grease gun, without any fitting on the tip.  It worked, but I still am trying to find a better way.

Greasing and burping are things that most yards don't know of.  Fortunately I had a brilliant, now-retired mechanic who taught me these kind of things.

...Dick York, J/46 #9 ARAGORN

To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/j4x-owners-group/C7CBB177-780E-4D95-BF27-44DFC4CBCD82%40gmail.com.

[David Jade]

The way I do it is to put some grease into a plastic straw. Flatten the end and it will slip right into the seal. Pinch and squeeze straw to ‘inject’ the grease into the seal.

 

This also works for sealants, etc… as well to get stuff into tight places.

 

David             _/)

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[Dick York]

David-  Well done!!  I will try that.

Plastic or paper straw?  (JK)

.....Dick

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[Fred Hawes]

Not sure this weird fact pertains, but on J46 Hull #16, the shaft has two different diameters, which it turned out, matters. Unfortunately I don't remember the details, but it was like 1.25" and 30 mm. Several years ago replaced with a Volvo product, works great.

Fred Hawes

ANONA J-46 16/35

https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/j4x-owners-group/C7CBB177-780E-4D95-BF27-44DFC4CBCD82%40gmail.com

.

[rers...@netscape.net]

On my 2002 J42 the drive shaft was tapered by about 1/8" from where it came out of the stern tube, and where it went into the hub and flange at the transmission.  The reason for this was the original shaft seal, supplied by J Boats,  was the rubber Volvo sleeve type.  The tapered shaft was necessary for this simple rubber shaft seal to work effectively, as it gave the rubber ribs inside the sleeve a sloping surface to bear against.  Frequent application of silicone grease inserted between the sleeve and shaft (not easy) helped the Volvo seal last several years, but the friction finally led to a dripping leak.  I discovered the taper on the shaft when I shifted to the PSS Dripless shaft seal and found that the 1 1/4" stainless steel rotor was too big for the nominal shaft size.   I had to get a 1 1/8" rotor and have it machined to fit snugly on the shaft.  

[Bernie Coyne]

On Mystic Rose hull #10, the shaft measures 1.25” outside of the hull and 30 mm inside the hull where the seal lives. 

 

Bernie

 

Bernie Coyne

Email: bernie...@outlook.com

Cell/text: 781-789-0762

 

From: j4x-owne...@googlegroups.com <j4x-owne...@googlegroups.com> On Behalf Of Fred Hawes
Sent: Thursday, July 3, 2025 10:16 AM
To: j4x-owne...@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [J/4X-owners] Shaft Seals?

 

Not sure this weird fact pertains, but on J46 Hull #16, the shaft has two different diameters, which it turned out, matters. Unfortunately I don't remember the details, but it was like 1.25" and 30 mm. Several years ago replaced with a Volvo product, works great.

To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/j4x-owners-group/803791354.2280997.1751552177203%40mail.yahoo.com.

[York.richardw]

Wow!

Who would have guessed that!! 

On Jul 3, 2025, at 10:45, 'rers...@netscape.net' via J/4X Owner's Group <j4x-owne...@googlegroups.com> wrote:

On my 2002 J42 the drive shaft was tapered by about 1/8" from where it came out of the stern tube, and where it went into the hub and flange at the transmission.  The reason for this was the original shaft seal, supplied by J Boats,  was the rubber Volvo sleeve type.  The tapered shaft was necessary for this simple rubber shaft seal to work effectively, as it gave the rubber ribs inside the sleeve a sloping surface to bear against.  Frequent application of silicone grease inserted between the sleeve and shaft (not easy) helped the Volvo seal last several years, but the friction finally led to a dripping leak.  I discovered the taper on the shaft when I shifted to the PSS Dripless shaft seal and found that the 1 1/4" stainless steel rotor was too big for the nominal shaft size.   I had to get a 1 1/8" rotor and have it machined to fit snugly on the shaft.  

To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/j4x-owners-group/1693c7cb-0f16-48ec-b062-e6a898cdb6d8n%40googlegroups.com.

[Rod Deyo]

In 15 years and 20,000 NMs we've had Volvo, PYI PSS, and Tides Marine SureSeal shaft seals. All have worked fine over 5000 engine hours with proper use and maintence on a 1-1/4" shaft and MaxProp. 

- The Volvo seals works suprisingly well if not worn and kept greased, but it always looked delicate and was replaced early-on with the PSS seal.

- The PSS seal is easy to inspect and adjust, and works well with proper burping or with the newer vent models. It can heat up quite hot if water isn't getting to the bearing surface. The bellows needs replacement if hardened or takes a set that gives unequal pressure on the bearing surface. Following PYI's advice on using new set screws along with a locking ring or hose clamp is an important safety measure.

-  Four years ago, our very experienced local boat yard (CSR in Seattle) wouldn't warranty a replacement PSS seal because of a series of bellows failures from newer installed units and recommended instead the Tide Marine SureSeal. The Tides Marine seal uses a lip seal and seawater from the engine for lubrication and cooling. No burping is needed with the positive pressure flow. The plumbing on our original Yanmar 4JH3-E or newer 4JH57 cooling is similar the PSS vent. So far it has worked well after an initial breakin period and shaft placement adjustment.

All-in-all, I'd probably recommend the PYI PSS seal if they've now fixed their bellows problems. 

Rod Deyo 

J/42 Northern Lights

To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/j4x-owners-group/036E8888-750D-447B-822C-63451CD2E0EF%40gmail.com.

Rod Deyo

[Paul Kekalos]

Yes, I am inclined to replace like-for-like and stick with PSS Seal. Based on documentation found in paperwork from Previous Owner, teh current unit is nearly 14 years old, and definitely due for replacement. My inclination is to stick with what has been in place. Will report back,