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Little about the finishes on mid 90ties to like 2005 Jboats. On the interior they used a Sherwin Williams conversion varnish it’s a two part finish that needs a very controlled environment can’t be brushed and doesn’t play well with other finishes and doesn’t strip very well using chemical strippers. The good news is marine varnishes like Epifanes and Cetol you will get a chemical bond but still scuff and clean before applying. Poly anything or water base finishes you won’t be getting a chemical bond so if you HAVE to use any of them sand just to like 180 to get a good mechanical bond.
Now the floors/soles in jboats of that era teak and holly veneer over 1/2 or 3/4 plywood (i’d suggest adding 1/4” layer to 1/2” if you some of the unfortunate that have the 1/2”) according to Everett Pearson’s son ( I never can remember his name pretty sure he doesn’t remember mine either) says that Tpi used a base coat of epoxy with a finish coat of conversion varnish but from the huge of some I’ve seen I think some are a polyester and the way I’ve seen some wear I’d say are just the conversion varnish and nothing else.
Me I use the Epifanes simply because I like it’s amber huge flows good easy to brush or spray. On the floors I seal with epoxy thinned 70% (yes 70%) with xylene rolled on 2 coats then spray the Epfanes gloss on top until the gain is filled.
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On May 31, 2020, at 07:09, Robert Kowalski <rc...@charter.net> wrote:
Little about the finishes on mid 90ties to like 2005 Jboats. On the interior they used a Sherwin Williams conversion varnish it’s a two part finish that needs a very controlled environment can’t be brushed and doesn’t play well with other finishes and doesn’t strip very well using chemical strippers. The good news is marine varnishes like Epifanes and Cetol you will get a chemical bond but still scuff and clean before applying. Poly anything or water base finishes you won’t be getting a chemical bond so if you HAVE to use any of them sand just to like 180 to get a good mechanical bond.
Now the floors/soles in jboats of that era teak and holly veneer over 1/2 or 3/4 plywood (i’d suggest adding 1/4” layer to 1/2” if you some of the unfortunate that have the 1/2”) according to Everett Pearson’s son ( I never can remember his name pretty sure he doesn’t remember mine either) says that Tpi used a base coat of epoxy with a finish coat of conversion varnish but from the huge of some I’ve seen I think some are a polyester and the way I’ve seen some wear I’d say are just the conversion varnish and nothing else.Me I use the Epifanes simply because I like it’s amber huge flows good easy to brush or spray. On the floors I seal with epoxy thinned 70% (yes 70%) with xylene rolled on 2 coats then spray the Epfanes gloss on top until the gain is filled.
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Ed Sitver
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On May 31, 2020, at 12:27, Al Goethe <ankg...@gmail.com> wrote:
I have found that the white goes away faster if you ‘wash’ the area with fresh (not salt) water first.
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On May 31, 2020, at 6:06 PM, Robert Kowalski <rc...@charter.net> wrote:
With conversion varnish the whitening from moister normally goes away in time, you can try some denatured alcohol sometimes that’ll draw it out.
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On Jun 12, 2021, at 18:25, Jay PA <svh...@gmail.com> wrote:
Following advice from TPI, years ago, I use a heat gun with success. Go slowly, being very careful not to heat it too much, to get the moisture out that causes the whitish cloudiness in the cabin sole varnish.
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On Jun 14, 2021, at 09:30, Sweet Ruca <rucas...@gmail.com> wrote:
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<20210614_142021.jpg>
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On Jun 15, 2021, at 07:37, Sweet Ruca <rucas...@gmail.com> wrote:
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On Jun 15, 2021, at 12:02, Al Goethe <ankg...@gmail.com> wrote:
The picture looks gorgeous! I was worried about the glossy surface being slick when wet. What is your experience with that?
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Let me start off by saying, I am not a wood worker. But, it is easy to redo your floors. Remove old floor. Buy new sheet of teak and holly ply. Lay the old sheet on top of the new sheet and clamp down, making sure the holly yellow lines match up. (this is where you will get waste) Buy, rent or borrow a router, with a trim bit. Trace the old sheet, it cuts the new sheet perfect.
Go to boat see if it fits. Then 4 coats of west system epoxy on bottom, 2 coats on top followed by 4-6 epifanes coats.
Also, while the old floor and the new floor are still clamped together, drill the screw holes, through the old holes.
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On Jun 16, 2021, at 11:06 AM, Marina Gmail <chiarap...@gmail.com> wrote:
Have you checked if the water is coming from the rudder bearing? We had this problem sailing across the Sea of Cortez. Our solution will be to add a gaitor from the bearing to the rudder post.
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On our J42, I have found that when beating to weather in heavy air on starboard tack, especially if you bury the rail, water can and does come up through the head sinks; both forward and aft. In the aft head, the water can and does find its way to the galley area and if you tack to port is then in the nav area.
The solution that we use is if you know you will be beating in heavy air, close the thru-hulls in the head sinks before you start.
Ward
Mistral #22
From: j4x-owne...@googlegroups.com <j4x-owne...@googlegroups.com>
On Behalf Of Albert Bossar
Sent: Wednesday, June 16, 2021 10:35 AM
To: j4x-owne...@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [J/4X-owners] Varnish?
I think that a number of owners have well documented the habitual wet sailing or standing water when beating to weather either at the Nav Table or in the galley areas for the J40s/42s. I curse every time it happens to us. Once we start beating heavily to weather or bury the rail (both port and starboard tack) we get a decent amount of water entry that we need to sponge bail every watch. I cannot for the love of life find where the water is coming from.
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"...get back aboard the boat where everything seems to make better sense." M. Roye
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On Jun 16, 2021, at 12:58, Dick York <york.r...@gmail.com> wrote:
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On Jun 16, 2021, at 09:46, rhall...@gmail.com wrote:
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Yes. You need to seal top bottom and all side edges. I then lightly sanded the top to remove imperfections. Then added 4-6 coats of varnish, on the top.
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On Jun 16, 2021, at 09:07, 'Graeme Nichol' via J/4X Owner's Group <j4x-owne...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
Anybody else have 'spongy' floors?
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On Jul 2, 2021, at 9:56 AM, Al Goethe <ankg...@gmail.com> wrote:
So, I started my sole project. I quickly recognized that sanding the sole back to the bare wood is a bigger deal than I thought. With a random orbital sander I don’t seem to get down to the wood using 100 or even lower grit even after substantial sanding time. Another issue seems to be that the wood may have been stained originally - and it’s pretty impossible to get to the wood and NOT also take the stain off.
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On Jul 3, 2021, at 14:35, William Stellin <wste...@hotmail.com> wrote:
Be very careful sanding as the veneer is thin and you are apt to sand through it. I used stripper on the vee berth sole and was disappointed with the results. The stripper got down to the bare wood and it also removed the grain filler as well as the stain. Refinishing with polyurethane looks great but doesn’t match the factory finish. The color and grain are different which I am sure is due to not using a wood filler. I didn’t do that for the main cabin. There I just lightly sanded and used 2-3 coats of polyurethane. It has held up perfectly and still has the even color and grain look that it always had. I am afraid if you try to sand out the dings and dimples you will ruin that part of the plywood veneer. It’s best to just live with it and be super careful about dropping heavy stuff on the sole. I guarantee you will never duplicate the factory finish on any wood surface down below. Unless it really looks like crap I’d just leave it alone. I tried to fill my dings with wood filler but it doesn’t match and are more visible than if I just varnished over them. Using epoxy which has more body to fill them might work but you will have to be supper careful you only fill the ding and when you sand, to make sure you just sand the epoxy. I’ve built and finished quite a bit of furniture so I know how difficult it is to match a factor finish especially when you don’t know what grain filler they used and what color stain. FYI grain filler is used to control the stain so it doesn’t go wild in the more porous parts of the wood. Generally the stain is more of a dye not just thinned out pigmented color. If you don’t do it right you could end up with splotchy color where the grain soaked in deeper.
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