J42 water heater replacement

[WSC]

Time has come to replace the og Atlantic water heater.   Mounted under the galley, I measure 14w x 16h x 17d and it looks like "drop in" options are the Seaward and Kuuma 6 gal units.   But also looks like the ISOTemp SPA 15 or 20L models would fit.   The main difference is their length is 19.3" and 23.2" respectively, but I think I could extend the tank into the space under the galley sink.   Anyone done this before with any of these models?

much thanks.. 

Sean C - J42 VIDA (#1).

[William Stellin]

Luckily I’ve only had to replace the electric element, the pressure relief valve and I changed the thermostat to a lower maximum temperature device  Now the water is heated to hand or dishwashing temp without adding cold water. I think this has added to the tanks life by preventing it from getting too hot. Unless your tank is leaking from a hole in the tank itself, everything else can be sourced and replaced. We have hull 6 so it was built alongside hull 1. Maybe you can save yourself a lot of work if you don’t have to remove it. Everything I’ve done can be done without removing the tank from the boat. 

Bill #6

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 4, 2023, at 4:17 PM, 'WSC' via J/4X Owner's Group <j4x-owne...@googlegroups.com> wrote:

Time has come to replace the og Atlantic water heater.   Mounted under the galley, I measure 14w x 16h x 17d and it looks like "drop in" options are the Seaward and Kuuma 6 gal units.   But also looks like the ISOTemp SPA 15 or 20L models would fit.   The main difference is their length is 19.3" and 23.2" respectively, but I think I could extend the tank into the space under the galley sink.   Anyone done this before with any of these models?

much thanks.. 

Sean C - J42 VIDA (#1).

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[rers...@netscape.net]

RE: J42 Water heater replacement

In my 18 years of ownership have followed the same part replacements mentioned by Bill on my 2002 J42 (2 heater elements, lower temp 120F thermostat, pressure relief valve).  Not sure lower water temperatures can improve longevity, as the engine coolant loop inside the tank heats the water up to engine temps while motoring (180 F.), definitely too hot for showering.  Changing the generic 110V heater element is not too hard, but it's a bolt on plate and gasket, which must be well coated with sealant and cranked down very hard or it will leak.  The stainless steel heater housing has wickedly sharp edges.  It's hard not to slice fingers in the course of changing either the heat element or thermostat.  Removing and replacing the original heater is not a project I am looking forward to, given the inaccessibility of its location. 

Good Luck

Reed  J42 #65 Cayenne

[WSC]

I wish I were just able to follow your recommended maintenance items, but it looks like I have a leak that requires pulling the tank at least inspecting.. my fat squash barely fits through the doors, so this will be interesting.. leaning towards the Isotemp models... a bit more room up and down and stainless tank.. hopefully worth it!

[gale...@gmail.com]

You might consider relocating the new heater unit in the starboard lazerette locker thus freeing up the space next to the refer for cooler dry storage. This would simplify the installation and might improve refrigeration performance. This was a plan when I was pondering a water heater replacement.

Galen

J42 Tango

[William Stellin]

I have replaced the heating element several times. I never have used any sealant; the rubber gasket that comes with the element has been all I’ve needed and the tank has never leaked. One issue however needs  attention before installation. The bolting studs are not perfectly aligned to the holes in the element. I’ve had to carefully file with a rat tail filed the offending hole slightly larger so the element slips on and off without binding. You can sort of force the element on but then it’s almost impossible to remove when it eventually burns out. Other than that it is straight forward. The thermostat just mounts on the surface of the tank. It does not penetrate the metal. I would move haven and earth looking for any attached part for leaking before remove the tank. If none of the several fittings on the face of the tank are leaking after a through inspection I guess I would have to give in and expect the tank is leaking. As I recall the tank itself is aluminum and only the outer box is SS. 

Bill #6

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On Jun 5, 2023, at 12:55 PM, 'WSC' via J/4X Owner's Group <j4x-owne...@googlegroups.com> wrote:



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[Ed S]

Sean,

I just put an IsoTemp20 in as a replacement.  With all the fittings, it protrudes, just a hair beyond the original. I had to raise it up a bit so I could extend the back over a piece of trim, which puts it even closer to the fridge. I think I’d step down to the 15 if I were to do it again. Because of the way the isotemp mixes, I think 15L would go a pretty long way.

Galen’s suggestion to relocate the heater is excellent. I considered that, but in the end decided to leave it where it was. It was a combination of already having preferred uses for the other locations, and not wanting to increase the complication of the plumbing, which I was replacing at the same time. But my top choice for a new location was to try to crowbar something under the aft head sink. Also not ideal, because my DC fridge compressor is in there trying to stay cool.

Instead, I’ve stuffed some wool insulation up around the fridge, and I will lay a layer on top of the heater as well. It really is a shame to have the fridge between the oven and water heater. 

¯\_(ツ)_/¯ 

I’m on my phone and wasn’t able to get the message to send with photos attached due to size, so I’ll try sending them in a separate post. 

Ed

[Ed S]

On Sunday, June 4, 2023 at 4:17:33 PM UTC-4 WSC wrote:

[WSC]

Thanks Ed and to all who chimed in.  I think all your input has already saved me a lot of grief.  I plan to pressure test the tank in place to confirm leak and go from there.   Good to know an ISOtemp model can fit if I go down that path, and Ed's install is an inspiration for what can be accomplished with a replacement.    Will advise as I fail and learn...

Sean C

[WSC]

Does anyone know if and how OEM Atlantic Marine water heaters were fastened down?   From an old brochure, it appears there are tabs on the base that would be used to screw the tank down, but there is barely 1/4" clearance on each side of the unit to see anything let alone access.   heater tank is empty and mostly disconnected, but not wanting to budge..  arrggh.   

[Ed S]

I don't have a picture, unfortunately, but I think -- can't recall -- mine was held down with wood "tabs" placed tight against the top of the tank and screwed into the sides of the cabinet. If you can't see them when looking in via the opening for the lower drawer in the galley, then you've got something else going on.

Ed

[WSC]

Been meaning to post follow up since I pulled the OEM Atlantic Marine water heater out.  In case anyone was curious what a 25+yr old leaky tank actually looks like...the foam encapsulating the tank was 100% water logged on the bottom half and you can see how the welded seams rusted away.   I'm replacing with an Isotemp Spa model.   With everything pulled out, thought I'd get better access to the cooler drain hose where it connects in the cooler, but alas, it remains as elusive as ever.

Sean J42 no.1

[WSC]

[Galen Todd]

Ugly!

I assume you were experiencing some leakage into bilge?

I have a slow pressure water leak that I can’t locate after serious investigative effort.

Could this be the source?

Galen

Tango #57

On Nov 4, 2023, at 6:09 AM, 'WSC' via J/4X Owner's Group <j4x-owne...@googlegroups.com> wrote:



Been meaning to post follow up since I pulled the OEM Atlantic Marine water heater out.  In case anyone was curious what a 25+yr old leaky tank actually looks like...the foam encapsulating the tank was 100% water logged on the bottom half and you can see how the welded seams rusted away.   I'm replacing with an Isotemp Spa model.   With everything pulled out, thought I'd get better access to the cooler drain hose where it connects in the cooler, but alas, it remains as elusive as ever.

Sean J42 no.1

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<IMG_4339.jpg>

[WSC]

Think so Galen and I think we both had the same symptoms.  Been chasing a slow leak for a couple of years and had water collecting in the shallow bilge just fwd of the deep bilge area.  Plus, pressure pump would kick in every 15-20 min if left on.   Resigned to pulling tank after lifting it up an inch and saw the false floor soaking wet.   Took it home and pulled the ends of tank enclosure off and all the foam was soaked.   Guessing the welds we're just deteriorating over time, and/or someone use chlorine at some point.  Think getting tank out was the hardest part...

Sean

[Galen Todd]

Thanks Sean

Bummer. I have been dreading this as my issue.

Same MO with fresh water collecting in the shallow bilge area when system is pressurized. Guess I have a sucky winter project.

Thanks

Galen

On Nov 4, 2023, at 8:26 AM, 'WSC' via J/4X Owner's Group <j4x-owne...@googlegroups.com> wrote:

Think so Galen and I think we both had the same symptoms.  Been chasing a slow leak for a couple of years and had water collecting in the shallow bilge just fwd of the deep bilge area.  Plus, pressure pump would kick in every 15-20 min if left on.   Resigned to pulling tank after lifting it up an inch and saw the false floor soaking wet.   Took it home and pulled the ends of tank enclosure off and all the foam was soaked.   Guessing the welds we're just deteriorating over time, and/or someone use chlorine at some point.  Think getting tank out was the hardest part...

Sean

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[Ed S]

Install of new tank wasn’t too bad, so I complicated it by replacing all of the vinyl supply lines with the Whale system. Could have saved a bit by using home supply pex. 

I did make some tweaks to the mounting of the new water heater, so I could mount the tank closer to the fridge, so it protrudes less into the area under the sink. 

I don’t know about other 42’s, but my fresh water tank diverter valve was in the shallow bilge next to the sink. It was nice to move it to individual valves under the galley sink, and also build valved manifolds for hot and cold runs. 

Regards,

Ed

------------------------------------

Ed Sitver

esi...@gmail.com

WhatsApp:  +1 303-570-5071
Mobile: +1 303-570-5071

On Nov 4, 2023, at 08:47, Galen Todd <gale...@gmail.com> wrote:

Thanks Sean

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[WSC]

Thanks Ed - I'm using the pics you shared earlier as a template - definitely want to move the diverter valve from that shallow bilge as well.   Did you cut out the "wall" next to the fridge to push the tank farther back? 

[Todd Stevens]

Tough to know whether to keep patching up these old systems or just rebuild from scratch.  FWIW, my J42 has a different water heater.  It’s a rectangular stainless steel case labeled “Atlantic Marine Systems.” I know because I am anchored here in the Channel Islands replumbing the darned thing instead of out enjoying the island.  Next up: figure out what’s wrong with the bilge pump and get 50 gallons of freshwater out of the bilge.  

Ah, the lazy relaxed lifestyle of the sailboat cruiser!

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[Ed S]

I do not have a wall or other barrier there. All I need to do was shave down a piece of trim that runs fore and aft near the fridge. I think I also added some blocking to raise the tank up a bit to further help clear the trim. Unfortunately, I’m out of town for at least a week, so I can’t take more pictures at the moment. But depending which size heater  you bought, you may not need to bother. 

Regards,

Ed

------------------------------------

Ed Sitver

esi...@gmail.com

WhatsApp:  +1 303-570-5071
Mobile: +1 303-570-5071

On Nov 4, 2023, at 12:18, 'WSC' via J/4X Owner's Group <j4x-owne...@googlegroups.com> wrote:

Thanks Ed - I'm using the pics you shared earlier as a template - definitely want to move the diverter valve from that shallow bilge as well.   Did you cut out the "wall" next to the fridge to push the tank farther back? 

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[WSC]

Yep Todd.  The oem heater is Atlantic Marine Systems.   The outside shell is a rectangular box, but when you open it up, the round tank is inside.   Suspect you have a similar leak.

[Todd Stevens]

Actually it was one of the PVC fittings screwed onto it as tubing adapters, and the web of stiff old tubing in front of it.  Not really suitable for hot water service, I fear.  Almost seemed as if it had expanded so that the threads no longer locked together.

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[Wayne Cassady]

Cruising=working on boats in exotic places

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 4, 2023, at 6:09 PM, 'WSC' via J/4X Owner's Group <j4x-owne...@googlegroups.com> wrote:

Yep Todd.  The oem heater is Atlantic Marine Systems.   The outside shell is a rectangular box, but when you open it up, the round tank is inside.   Suspect you have a similar leak.

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[Sam Foster]

Does anyone have experience removing the main Lewmar “Roll stop” hatches on a J/40? I plan to bring them to Hatchmasters for new lenses and am hoping to get enough intel to be able to do it in one visit to the boat. Any insights would be welcome!

Sam
j/40 Cahoots #44

[Jim Bordeaux]

I removed both of the larger hatches on my hull 54 and sent them to Hatchmasters for reglazing. As I recall, there was a circlip on the hinge pins which, when removed, allowed the pin to be driven out. I may still have the instructions that came with the kits; will check.
Jim B
J40 Solstice

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 5, 2023, at 4:20 PM, Sam Foster <jsfo...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Does anyone have experience removing the main Lewmar “Roll stop” hatches on a J/40? I plan to bring them to Hatchmasters for new lenses and am hoping to get enough intel to be able to do it in one visit to the boat. Any insights would be welcome!
>
> Sam
> j/40 Cahoots #44
>

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[James Ashton]

I did the same and found very a helpful video on YouTube for removal .  Just search on Lewmar Ocean Series or whichever model and you should find a good demo. It may also be helpful to take pics so you remember how to put back together.  

James F. Ashton

Arcadia , J42 

646.262.3037

On Nov 5, 2023, at 4:32 PM, Jim Bordeaux <jim...@gmail.com> wrote:

I removed both of the larger hatches on my hull 54 and sent them to Hatchmasters for reglazing. As I recall, there was a circlip on the hinge pins which, when removed, allowed the pin to be driven out. I may still have the instructions that came with the kits; will check.

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[Sam Foster]

Thank you Jim, that would be great. Removing at the hinge was my instinct but they encouraged me to remove the entire hatch saying it was fairly easy.. I feel like there’s interior trim and not sure where the screws and sealant are to be found. Any info on both the hinge removal and the whole hatch would be greatly welcome.

 

Sam/

 

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[Jim Bordeaux]

Hmmm, removing the whole bedded hatch would be a whole ‘nother issue! I don’t know why that would be necessary. The refurbishment at Hatchmasters includes new rubber, and you should get the new dogging kit.

Jim

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 5, 2023, at 6:26 PM, Jim Bordeaux <jim...@gmail.com> wrote:



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[Wayne Cassady]

We removed all the Lewmar hatches and portholes when we first bought Pipe Dream, hull no 75, several years ago. It was surprisingly not that bad. As I recall we used the thinnest possible flat tool (metal scraper) to start under the frame and then graduated to tools like wood chisels. We were removing to replace but the frames were in fine shape when we got them off. They were definitely not bedded with anything like 5200, maybe a polyurethane. Hope this helps.

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 5, 2023, at 6:29 PM, Jim Bordeaux <jim...@gmail.com> wrote:

Hmmm, removing the whole bedded hatch would be a whole ‘nother issue! I don’t know why that would be necessary. The refurbishment at Hatchmasters includes new rubber, and you should get the new dogging kit.

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/j4x-owners-group/9393C3AD-5D05-4B7B-93B2-3A498BB06861%40gmail.com.

[Robert Kowalski]

On the lewmar ocean hatches it is only 2 screws on the hinges they are the allen head screws in the middle that need to taken out. the hinge splits there and the hinge splits there. There are 2 springs in the hinge but lifting the hatch a little they (the split ) comes apart. Normally the seal on the plexiglass isn’t where they are leaking there are several places you want to check the latches and hinges. you want to check the plastic parts that are riveted to the frame make sure they are firm if not remove what I do is drill out the rivets tap with either a 1/4-20 or don’t pre drill and just tap with a 12-24 on the latchet side try with just the 12 because if you don’t have a lath to turn down the head of the screw the 1/4-20 is to big. Now you want to check the screws on the hinge that connect the frame they get loose and there isn’t pressure on the gasket also the screws on the hinge through the plexiglass loosen over time and a source you have to spit the hinge to tighten them tighten proper.

it is rare that the frame is the source of leaks not to mention a pain to remove and checking all the things I mention only takes minutes to check and repair.
hope this helps...
Bob

Sailing a course less traveled
Delightfully typed on a full keyboard on a mac

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[Larry Romano]

I replaced all the hatches. They are screwed down. I removed all the screws and used wooden shims, that I got at the hardware store, tapped them in under the hatch while applying heat to the frame. Start in one corner. Save the hinge area for last. The inner trim is also screwed up.

On Nov 5, 2023, at 5:50 PM, Sam Foster <jsfo...@gmail.com> wrote:



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[Sam Foster]

Larry, all the screws come easily, bedding is loose ing fairly easily but what about the hinge screws/bolts? Are they bolted through?

Sam

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 6, 2023, at 7:57 AM, Larry Romano <j40r...@gmail.com> wrote:



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[gale...@gmail.com]

Just completed an installation of a IsoTemp 15L water heater. Happy to share learnings offline with anyone considering a replacement for the OEM Atlantic unit. Big project but very doable.

Galen

J42 Tango

[Sam Foster]

Our 35 year-old water heater seems to have given up the ghost. It’s an old Atlantic 6 gallon rectangular stainless unit with very compact dimensions compared to the new Kuuma, ISO temp or Whale units. It measures at 14”x12x13 not including the fittings. 

I’d like replace it, in place. Has anyone out there found a unit this compact? Or has anyone ventured to take it apart and see what a repair might involve? 

Looking over the specs of this original unit, it makes me sad for good old American built stuff. This unit is better in every way I can see. 

Sam

Cahoots #44

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 4, 2023, at 4:17 PM, 'WSC' via J/4X Owner's Group <j4x-owne...@googlegroups.com> wrote:

Time has come to replace the og Atlantic water heater.   Mounted under the galley, I measure 14w x 16h x 17d and it looks like "drop in" options are the Seaward and Kuuma 6 gal units.   But also looks like the ISOTemp SPA 15 or 20L models would fit.   The main difference is their length is 19.3" and 23.2" respectively, but I think I could extend the tank into the space under the galley sink.   Anyone done this before with any of these models?

much thanks.. 

Sean C - J42 VIDA (#1).

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[Wayne Cassady]

We just finished a replacement on Southern Cross, hull no 75. Dimensions were almost identical to the original except a little taller so I had to route away some of the cover material on the settee.  Will send some pics shortly. Our old one had developed. Leak on the bottom. Top looked like new, bottom looked like hell.

Sent from my iPhone

On May 10, 2026, at 11:58 AM, Sam Foster <jsfo...@gmail.com> wrote:

Our 35 year-old water heater seems to have given up the ghost. It’s an old Atlantic 6 gallon rectangular stainless unit with very compact dimensions compared to the new Kuuma, ISO temp or Whale units. It measures at 14”x12x13 not including the fittings. 

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[Larry Romano]

The plastic bottle at the bottom of the picture is the expansion bottle for the engine.

On May 10, 2026, at 12:48 PM, Wayne Cassady <wayne.c...@gmail.com> wrote:

We just finished a replacement on Southern Cross, hull no 75. Dimensions were almost identical to the original except a little taller so I had to route away some of the cover material on the settee.  Will send some pics shortly. Our old one had developed. Leak on the bottom. Top looked like new, bottom looked like hell.

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[Rod Deyo]

We replaced the 6 Gal Atlantic Marine water heater on our J/42 last year with a 6 Gal Kumma 11811. The Kumma fit under the galley structure, but was tight. 

Rod Deyo

J/42 Northern Lights (#61)

To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/j4x-owners-group/9D6C9B79-70D3-4AEB-9AD1-B68C38205B14%40gmail.com.

Rod Deyo

[Bill Bowers]

Hi Sean,

As Rod said, very tight knickers. 

We also chopped in a 6 gal Kuuma as part of the keel grid upgrade. Both the under drawer alcove and the cabinet door are large enough. But the door is ~ 2” aft of and higher than the alcove, so the heater cannot make the wiggle without trimming some of the aft corner of the alcove. I also had to reroute water hoses and elevate Seafrost lines a bit higher under the port settee and nibble a bite out of the bunk cushion panel. 

Pics show nibble needed on aft corner alcove and new location of tank select valve. 

Cheers

Bill Bowers

J42 # 3 ConverJence

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[Walter Caldwell]

J40s,

Where is your water heater located?

On #7 it is under the nav station. And yes, we need a new one. 

Walter

Sent from my iPhone

On May 10, 2026, at 19:03, Bill Bowers <wfb0...@gmail.com> wrote:



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<IMG_0991.jpeg>

<IMG_0994.jpeg>

[Wayne Cassady]

Ours is just forward of the galley, port side under main cabin settee, outboard of engine which is under a cover in the main cabin.

Sent from my iPhone

On May 10, 2026, at 10:19 PM, Walter Caldwell <j40shaken...@gmail.com> wrote:

J40s,

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[Bud Cary]

Ours is under the forward end of the port side settee, just behind the bulkhead for the forward head

 

Will send a picture

 

S/V Pooh (#82)

 

From: j4x-owne...@googlegroups.com <j4x-owne...@googlegroups.com> on behalf of Walter Caldwell <j40shaken...@gmail.com>
Date: Sunday, May 10, 2026 at 10:19 

PM

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