Where to buy 55mm enclosure and front panel?

[Martin S.]

Hello,

I've been reading about this great project in this forum for a while now. After my first attempts with shortwave and a NooElec V5, I would like to buy a Hermes Lite. As I will be operating the whole thing fully remotely, I am thinking about buying the io board at the same time to save on shipping costs later. I have read here in the forum about the problem with the installation situation in the 40mm housing and am not satisfied with the current solution. I think many people feel the same way and I think that in the future it will be necessary to optimize the IO board and the 40mm enclosure with sufficient space for the connections on the back. I would therefore like to install the HL2 and the IO board in a 55mm housing for the time being.

My question now is where I can buy a 55mm case with a front panel? The panel on the back is included with the IO board from Makerfabs, isn't it?

BR,

Martin

[David Taylor]

On 19/04/2024 16:38, Martin S. wrote:
> I have read here in the forum about the problem with the installation situation
> in the 40mm housing and am not satisfied with the current solution.

Why?

I have the 40 mm with the filter board and the I/O board, and see no problem...

Cheers,
David
--
SatSignal Software - Quality software for you
Web: https://www.satsignal.eu
Email: david-...@blueyonder.co.uk
Twitter: @gm8arv

[Martin S.]

James Ahlstrom wrote:

" The difference in insulation height is 2.54 mm and the distance from front to back is 5 cm.  Although the slope is noticeable it doesn't affect operation. Either header will work in either enclosure. In the 40 mm enclosure the EXTTR phono connector is quite close to the PURE SMA. I was surprised to find that if I connect the SMA first there is still room for the insulated phono plug I tried. A fatter phono plug might not fit but I could file a flat onto it and make it work."

Maybe I'm too much of an aesthete, but it doesn't look very nice to me in the picture. The distance between the EXTTR and the PURE connector is simply too small. And as I understand it, this is still the version with the larger distance from the IO Board. I don't recognize the advantage that the 40mm housing has over the 55mm housing.

[James Ahlstrom]

The IO boards shipping from Makerfabs will be level  in the 40mm case. In the 55mm case the board will slope upward by 2.54 mm in 5 cm. This gives you more space between EXTTR and Pure. If you can unsolder the 2x25 header and replace it, you can fix this. 

Jim

N2ADR

[Martin S.]

Thank you Jim! I know this already. My question is where I cam buy an 55mm enclosure and a 55mm front panel?

[Max]

Examples (assumed you are in USA?). If you just Google the dimensions there are other sources:

https://www.amazon.com/JIUWU-Electronic-Enclosure-Reinforced-106x55x150mm/dp/B07KYGMW42

https://www.ebay.com/itm/295432483973

aliexpress.com/i/1005006157112740.html

Front panels I would think Makerfabs probably have some left? They are very friendly and accommodating to deal with if you just email them. If they can help in my experience they certainly will. Or there are others on here that I think have had some made up and may have spares?

Maybe Louie has some left?

https://groups.google.com/g/hermes-lite/c/gIA0HIQqBn0/m/nF727y47AwAJ

With Hermes Lite you do need to be prepared to find items and info by Googling and also searching this Group (there's a search bar at the top of the web group interface). I found all the above in the last 10 mins from searching.

Always start with the Wiki. It is a mine of information:

https://github.com/softerhardware/Hermes-Lite2/wiki

Good luck and 73

Max

[andreas grey]

case - aliexpress

front plate - gerber file to pcb -- > jlcpcb vor 5$ for 5 pieces

73 andi

[tmoto...@gmail.com]

Martin –

Here is the 55mm case on Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KYFS9S7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

The slot height sits lower – so the board is closer to the bottom and the shim height is only about 1/8”. I brought a piece of 1/8”thick  by 1” side copper bar and cut off enough to make a shim.

 

As for the front plates – where are you located? This is what I’ve been doing of late…

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

From: herme...@googlegroups.com <herme...@googlegroups.com> On Behalf Of Martin S.
Sent: Saturday, April 20, 2024 9:03 AM
To: Hermes-Lite <herme...@googlegroups.com>
Subject: Re: Where to buy 55mm enclosure and front panel?

 

Thank you Jim! I know this already. My question is where I cam buy an 55mm enclosure and a 55mm front panel?

James Ahlstrom schrieb am Freitag, 19. April 2024 um 22:59:00 UTC+2:

The IO boards shipping from Makerfabs will be level  in the 40mm case. In the 55mm case the board will slope upward by 2.54 mm in 5 cm. This gives you more space between EXTTR and Pure. If you can unsolder the 2x25 header and replace it, you can fix this. 

 

Jim

N2ADR

On Friday, April 19, 2024 at 2:17:30 PM UTC-4 Martin S. wrote:

James Ahlstrom wrote:

 

" The difference in insulation height is 2.54 mm and the distance from front to back is 5 cm.  Although the slope is noticeable it doesn't affect operation. Either header will work in either enclosure. In the 40 mm enclosure the EXTTR phono connector is quite close to the PURE SMA. I was surprised to find that if I connect the SMA first there is still room for the insulated phono plug I tried. A fatter phono plug might not fit but I could file a flat onto it and make it work."

 

Maybe I'm too much of an aesthete, but it doesn't look very nice to me in the picture. The distance between the EXTTR and the PURE connector is simply too small. And as I understand it, this is still the version with the larger distance from the IO Board. I don't recognize the advantage that the 40mm housing has over the 55mm housing.

 

David Taylor schrieb am Freitag, 19. April 2024 um 19:41:44 UTC+2:

On 19/04/2024 16:38, Martin S. wrote:
> I have read here in the forum about the problem with the installation situation
> in the 40mm housing and am not satisfied with the current solution.

Why?

I have the 40 mm with the filter board and the I/O board, and see no problem...

Cheers,
David
--
SatSignal Software - Quality software for you
Web: https://www.satsignal.eu
Email: david-...@blueyonder.co.uk
Twitter: @gm8arv

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[Martin S.]

Hello,

thank you very much for the information!

I am from Germany. So the housing doesn't seem to be the problem. The difficulties are the front panel and the shim.

If I change the color of the PCB from black at jlcpcb it is very expensive. So not really an alternative. Does anyone from Germany have a front panel in 55mm height?

If not, I will probably try the 40mm case first. It's not pretty, but the other one might be too complicated.

[Franz Schöning]

Hi Martin,

I am also in Germany and am also looking for a 55mm panels. If we can get the PCB layout we could do a group buy and order from JCL in China. I have had PC boards made there before and it is quite easy. I have just never looked hard enough for the existing PCB design.

Franz

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[tmoto...@gmail.com]

Hi Martin –

The shim for the 55mm case is something that I have not found or easy to purchase – so I cut and file my own.

It’s a 10 minute job if your have a saw and grinder.

 

I ordered a dozen or so of the latest SDR stenciled ones from JLCPCB, it was like $30 USD delivered or so, but Ive built a few of the HL2’s in the 55mm case – so it made sense.

 

I like the extra height and at the time – the spacer was part of the I/O board – so it all lined up. I had the extra room and liked the front power switch.

 

Current production has the spacer deleted – so the I/O board fits the 40mm case better, and you do not have to deal with fabricating a new shim.

 

All a matter of choice.

 

Tom -K2TC

 

 

FRom: herme...@googlegroups.com <herme...@googlegroups.com> On Behalf Of Martin S.
Sent: Monday, April 22, 2024 3:13 AM

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[Martin S.]

Hi Franz,

Good idea with the Group Buy. I would be there. That means we still need a gerber file for the front that fits with the current HL2. The back is included with the IO board from makerfabs and possibly even available separately from makerfabs if someone needs one without the IO board. The front panel from TOM K2TC looks good. The power button could be removed if not needed.

I have not yet created any PCBs and am not familiar with the file formats. I also don't know how to view them. I have looked in the github repository of HL2 to see what is available, but I can't view the files. Does anyone have a tip for a freeware SW with which I can open these files and possibly edit them?

[Max]

KiCad (Free/donation)

https://www.kicad.org/

Max

On Monday 22 April 2024 at 21:27:28 UTC+1 Martin S. wrote:

I have not yet created any PCBs and am not familiar with the file formats. I also don't know how to view them. I have looked in the github repository of HL2 to see what is available, but I can't view the files. Does anyone have a tip for a freeware SW with which I can open these files and possibly edit them?n%40googlegroups.com.

[Martin S.]

Thank you Max for the link.

@Tom K2TC: Where can I find 55mm actual gerber files of the endcaps? I can only find some on github that are 4 years old.

(why can i only reply to everyone here and not to individual people? somehow i can't get along with the clarity in google groups...)

[jason kitchens]

The discussion is relevant to others as well, so unless it's a personal message don't stress that it goes out to a broad audience.

At least that is my 2 cents worth....

[tmoto...@gmail.com]

Hi All – Tom, K2TC here

 

So for those that are interested – no credit on my part, as the base files came from Ramon a while back, and straight out of github.

All I did was add the hole for the switch and put SDR in place of my call, slid some holes around…. You can edit as you like… but the zip is what I sent into JLCPCB for the latest SDR tagged version for those who didn’t want to see my call on their HL2’s

This was edited using KiCAD 7.0

I order these as 2 sided – so the back inside is PCB plated also…does not flex …no warping  as its plated on both sides… looks cleaner, and the connectors all fit nicely

I order them in Black – you can adjust color when ordering as you like…its in the order form

I order them with the order number removed… no need to see some meaningless text along the bottom of the endplate.

Review the order selection items below… choose your desired preferences

A you can see I ordered 25 of these – and they were under $20, about the same $20 or so to ship….. so delivered under $2 per endplate.

I used most of what I ordered for builds…and handed off a few remaining to friends who went to the 55mm case.

 

Some one in each region should group buy them – and share as I have in the past.

 

 

 

Here is the SDR front end plate that’s in the file.

 

 

Case I used from Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KYFS9S7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

 

Lighted Switch I used from Amazon – I like this as the switch can be disconnected from the leads

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08P4HKCVX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09CYPDFHS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Copper Bar that I trim off a piece to make the shims….you can make a lot of shims from this 12” bar… cut, file, drill as needed.

The 55mm case slot height is much shorter than the 40mm case – so you will need something in the 1/8” range.

Be careful not to sheer off those SMT devices noted in the build instructions.

 

 

 

Happy Hamming!!

 

Tom – K2TC

 

 

 

From: herme...@googlegroups.com <herme...@googlegroups.com> On Behalf Of Martin S.
Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2024 3:20 AM
To: Hermes-Lite <herme...@googlegroups.com>
Subject: Re: Where to buy 55mm enclosure and front panel?

 

Thank you Max for the link.

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[Martin S.]

Hello Tom K2TC,

thank you very much for the detailed description and the files you sent. I am currently trying to familiarize myself with KiCad in order to make changes to the gerber files. Unfortunately I am not successful. Is it even possible to edit them or do I need a project file?

For the heat-shim you use a 1/8" x 1" piece of copper. It is difficult for me to find something like this in a metric country. Is 1/8" (3.175mm) the distance between the housing and the PCB? Is it the exact distance or do you need to file something off.
It is easier for me to get to 3mm or 4mm.

Martin

[Sid Boyce]

All of my HL2's use 3mm copper sheet in contact with the FET tabs and bolted to the case. Never had a problem.

As a matter of fact this was the method used before the shim was thought of.

73 ... Sid.

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[Martin S.]

But you have to bear in mind that you are using a fan.

How is the copper plate inserted? The PCP sits in a groove, doesn't it?

[brhl...@gmail.com]

Hey Martin and Franz,

i have a few Panels for the 55 case left from my last order.

Drop me an email. Look at qrz.com DF1UB

[brhl...@gmail.com]

[Sid Boyce]

With the copper plate screwed to the bottom half of the case, the top half fits in the groove perfectly.

I have only used a fan on this one, a tangential blower mounted over the FPGA. The blower exhausts through the hole cut in the top of the case as shown.

73 ... Sid.

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[Sid Boyce]

No fan fitted to No.2 or No.3. No.2 has the I/O board installed and I have ordered I/O boards for the other 2.

73 ... Sid.

 

On 25/04/2024 08:35, Martin S. wrote:

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[Martin S.]

i now have all the parts together. makerfabs was kind enough to send me a heat shim, even though i didn't buy the 40mm enclosure. to adapt it to the 55mm enclosure, i filed it down to 3.5mm with a file. unfortunately, it didn't turn out quite flat. is that a problem or can the heat-conducting paste compensate for it? is the heat shim big enough or is it at the limit?

[Steve Haynal]

Many early adopters run without the heat shim. I don't have a heat shim in most of my HL2s. Just make sure the thermal connection between the edge of the PCB and the enclosure slot is good. Anything additional a quite not flat heat shim does should help.

73,

Steve

kf7o

 

[Martin S.]

From my point of view, the support of the PCP with the heat shim is statically over-determined. Both the heat shim and the enclosure have tolerance. This can result in either good contact between the PCB and the heat shim or good contact between the PCB and the enclosure. In my case, the heat shim is slightly higher and therefore the contact to the PCB is good. The contact between PCB and enclosure is rather poor. On the other side, the PCB is only loosely inserted. The heat transfer there is not so good anyway.

What are really the places on the PCB where good heat transfer is necessary? Is it just the place where the heat shim is located or are there other areas?

[Max]

Martin, as per Steve's post, just make sure to add some heat transfer compound in the slot of the PCB just in the area where it's possible to see the heat-sinking area of the PCB around the PA transistors. Just be careful not to get it plastered all over the place. Then if you tighten down the single PCB bolt as per the assembly Wiki it holds the heat sink area against the slot of the case. Job done.

TBH I think having read about heat shims in this group over a long time people seem to over-think it somewhat. I bought my first HL2 before the heat shim even existed and I don't use a fan either. Have run it on FT8 and WSPR on full power for extended periods, sometimes during 30C+ summer days. Yes, the reported temp goes up into the 40s (C) occasionally but it's never caused a shutdown. I've even done it (poor practice I know - not proud of it, but just wanted to be on the air) into unmatched end fed wire antenna. My first HL2 is still going strong after nearly 5 years. It's pretty bomb-proof in my experience. I'd not worry about it too much especially if into a good matched antenna or load.

Again, I know it's not quite the same, but bear in mind PC processors can frequently hit 100C under heavy load in gaming machines. Mid 40s C is not ideal but it's not huge for most semiconductors by any means.

73

Max

[Steve Haynal]

The HL2 enclosure includes a hole and screw. This is so you can tighten the PCB (it may deform slightly) to have good contact with the shim and the enclosure slot.

73,

Steve

kf7o

[Duncan Woodall]

  Hi  Tom – K2TC  , I have just been reading you're QRZ page and love the 55 mm case, so I ordered one myself and got some end plates made up like yours.

Looking at the way you wire the switch you have one green and one black wire directly into the board. What did you connect the other red and green wire to ? or are they just joined together? I am struggling to get the LED lit when unit powered on.