Add far as hot ends go, you will have trouble with just about every hot end on the market when it comes to printing in all filament types. The best/only option is to wait for the new one to be launched soon by John and Michael. I'm using one of their beta versions and it's pretty good.
For electronics, RAMPS is good for beginners because it is a bunch of separate parts that you can swap out if you do blow something up, and everyone at the hackerspace knows everything there is to know about it. Get a kit from reprapdiscounts.com that can handle 24 volts.
For the power supply, an ATX will often struggle if you have a heated bed, so will that 240watt one you are looking at. Get a 24 volt 500 watt power supply for around $30 from aliexpress.com. Use a 24 volt ceramic heater cartridge for your hot end, and a 12 volt bed heater running at 24 volts for quick heat up.
I would also get 2.5amp nema 17s, not just the standard 1.2 or 1.8 amp ones, and the 8825 drivers rather than the 4988 drivers because a bit more power in your motors is always good.
Rob.
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Regarding RAMPS:
The guys in the German RepRap Foundation did a version with blade fuses instead of the PTC's. Google GRRF Ramps 1.4.2 and you should find it.
Would post a link, but currently a passenger in a car, on my phone.
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Have fun,
Darren
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I sometimes think Darren is too cautious, but not this time. I also have personally torn down 2 cheap USB chargers, and 2 Apple made dongles (one mine, one donated to the cause of science) :-).
The Apple stuff is quite simply a work of engineering beauty, with massive dedication - I even once thought excessive - to long-term reliability. VGA connector with full metal trapezoidal case hand-soldered shut on all 12 edges, enclosing all wiring up to the external strain relief, for example. I have several in daily use, often under significant stress, for upwards of three years, the only failure being one, at the 5 year mark. I will never again begrudge them the price of such quality. ASUS I have similar respect for, though slightly less.
The cheap USB devices OTOH, were not able to survive even one month of careful gentle usage at 240v, and although both filed safely, that was pure luck - both had likely failure modes that could kill me.
Never again will I buy off-brand 240v devices. I was also going to mention the Gosford woman's death. If you can't afford to play this game safely, just stay away until you can. And that's advice from a die-hard risk taker.
Clifford Heath.
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On 27 Jun 2014 12:35, "Gareth Pye" <gar...@cerberos.id.au> wrote:
> "People should also not use any electrical devices while they are plugged in and charging." - the Age article above
It should say, while charging from any mains adapter. Charging from a good computer's USB with branded power supply (not cheap ATX) adds enough layers of safety, even if the computer is on the mains - I believe.
Clifford Heath
Darren
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"People should also not use any electrical devices while they are plugged in and charging."
I've made sure my electrical devices are unplugged while I'm using them but my cup of tea is cold, my toast is white and my microwave popcorn is very crunchy!
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+1 on the RCD. No matter the failure it would have saved this lady.
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On 27 Jun 2014 13:26, "Darren Freeman" <dar...@freemaninstruments.com> wrote:
>... even a
> small chance of a horrible outcome just doesn't seem worth it, when the
> benefits are so small.
That's the same reason I'm participating in this discussion from a hospital bed this morning. No, no electrical devices were involved. Diagnosis of gout attack in right hand is now in doubt.
Clifford Heath
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If you use an ATX power supply make sure it is high enough output. The average pc has a 300watt power supply which will struggle to heat your bed so go for at least 500 watt.
You need to connect the green wire to a black wire to turn it on.
You need to put a big resistor across the 5 volt, so the red and black, which will stop the voltage drop across the 12 volt. Make sure you have a big heat sink on the resistor because it will get hot (I have the burn on my kitchen table to prove it).
There will usually be two 12 volt circuits (yellow), one with more current than the other. If you are using RAMPS as your electronics there are separate 12 volt inputs for the bed: 11amp minimum and for everything else 5amp minimum, so connect the higher current output to the higher current input.
Do all that and then apart from not being as neat as other options it will work fine.
Rob.
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You need to put a big resistor across the 5 volt, so the red and black, which will stop the voltage drop across the 12 volt. Make sure you have a big heat sink on the resistor because it will get hot (I have the burn on my kitchen table to prove it).