34+ sealing hull deck joint

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Richard Bigley

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Dec 14, 2025, 12:22:50 PM12/14/25
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Last week was the annual 30 nm Winter Vashon race in Puget Sound,  blowing a near gale, our 34+ performed fantastically. We probably needed a second reef for the last 5 miles, but never got around to it. The toe rail spent a while submerged. After the race it appeared there was some seawater seepage from the area of the toe rail. Has anyone ever removed the rub rail below the toe rail to reseal the hull-deck joint on a 34+?
Richard  


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Ben Sutton

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Dec 14, 2025, 4:31:50 PM12/14/25
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Hi Richard,
It would be surprising if the hull deck joint leaked. It is a permanent bond unlike earlier C&C designs. I am speculating but from experience, water will accumulate at the lowest point when healing. The water could have come from anywhere, including the head sink if the seacock wasn’t closed.
Obviously I could be entirely wrong but I would hate to see you mess with the hull deck joint unnecessarily.
Ben Sutton
SV Evangeline 

On Dec 14, 2025, at 9:22 AM, Richard Bigley <bigl...@gmail.com> wrote:


Last week was the annual 30 nm Winter Vashon race in Puget Sound,  blowing a near gale, our 34+ performed fantastically. We probably needed a second reef for the last 5 miles, but never got around to it. The toe rail spent a while submerged. After the race it appeared there was some seawater seepage from the area of the toe rail. Has anyone ever removed the rub rail below the toe rail to reseal the hull-deck joint on a 34+?
Richard  


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Jim Morse

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Dec 14, 2025, 6:53:47 PM12/14/25
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I am with Ben.  The first thing I would check is your Genoa tracks.  
Jim Morse

On Dec 14, 2025, at 4:31 PM, Ben Sutton <sutt...@gmail.com> wrote:



Chuck Scheaffer

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Dec 14, 2025, 10:06:54 PM12/14/25
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I have an R model and it does not have a liner, and the joint between deck and hull can be seen from inside.  I can see butyl tape squeezing out along that seem.   I would snug the nuts from underneath  Don't torque them, just make them snug.

Chuck

On Sun, Dec 14, 2025 at 12:22 PM Richard Bigley <bigl...@gmail.com> wrote:
Last week was the annual 30 nm Winter Vashon race in Puget Sound,  blowing a near gale, our 34+ performed fantastically. We probably needed a second reef for the last 5 miles, but never got around to it. The toe rail spent a while submerged. After the race it appeared there was some seawater seepage from the area of the toe rail. Has anyone ever removed the rub rail below the toe rail to reseal the hull-deck joint on a 34+?
Richard  


Chuck Scheaffer

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Dec 15, 2025, 4:40:33 AM12/15/25
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Found a drawing of the deck to hull joint used on the C&C 37/40.  They used the same method on my 34R except mine has the more traditional butyl instead of the "polyuethane adhesive" and the flange is less than 3", I think it's 2 or 2 1/2" inches.  Like many other features of the C&C design, it's clever, simple, and extra strong, compared to other brands.

Chuck's Note: The first nine R models were built in a rush to get them out to races in the summer of 1989.  My boat is Hull #2 and it was started in April and delivered in June to race at Block Island Race Week.  It seems the R's were sold to experienced and committed racers to showcase the new C&C design and create buzz at various regattas like Block Island Race Week and the Swiftsure and other venues around the country..  They seem to have done a few things to my boat to reduce weight when that was not as important when building a plus.  I expect workers took more time building the plus version and the quality is even better, because they weren't as rushed.  . .  

Chuck

.  
Deck to Hull flange.jpg

Matt Cowan

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Dec 18, 2025, 12:46:21 PM12/18/25
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I’m looking at installing an in hull transducer for sonar. This only works if I can find a hull area with no coring. 

Chuck - do you have a drawing that shows the layup schedule for the hull?  (36+ if that makes a difference.)

Thanks. 

Matt. 

Jack Huttner

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Dec 18, 2025, 2:07:05 PM12/18/25
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Hey Matt,

I have a never used Raymarine Transom Transducer that came with my system bundle a few years ago.  Let me know if you're interested in it.  

Regards,

Jack


Matt Cowan

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Dec 18, 2025, 3:12:27 PM12/18/25
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Thanks, Jack.  I'm looking at a Garmin package - with one option that doesn't require a through hull sensor.

Matt.

On Thu, Dec 18, 2025 at 2:07 PM Jack Huttner <jhut...@gmail.com> wrote:
Hey Matt,

I have a never used Raymarine Transom Transducer that came with my system bundle a few years ago.  Let me know if you're interested in it.  

Regards,

Jack


On Thu, Dec 18, 2025 at 12:46 PM Matt Cowan <mcowa...@gmail.com> wrote:
I’m looking at installing an in hull transducer for sonar. This only works if I can find a hull area with no coring. 

Chuck - do you have a drawing that shows the layup schedule for the hull?  (36+ if that makes a difference.)

Thanks. 

Matt. 


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Francois Rivard

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Dec 18, 2025, 3:49:14 PM12/18/25
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Hi Matt, 

The transducer area is not cored. You access that with the small removable sole panel between the table and the forward bulkhead. That's factory location for the speed and depth transducers. 

I've researched the "Through the fiberglass " transducers in the past and the consensus was that they're not very reliable / not worth fooling with. 

I replaced my speed transducer with a speed / depth / heel angle / water temp combo a few years ago.

 (Airmar DST810 Smart Multisensor | Defender Marine https://share.google/5Pp3wewmHoshLCyOU)

 It's excellent, it even has a Bluetooth connection to your phone to get that info anywhere on the boat in addition to connecting to my NMEA 2000 network. It compensates the speed for the heel angle (healing causes traditional paddle transducers to exaggerate speed) It's an impressive piece of kit. 

It fits in the same hole in the factory non cored area, you don't have to worry about drilling through the core and potential serious water seapage issues.

It's an easy swap but needs to be done on the hard. I didn't see any reasons to circumvent C&C's engineering and it works wonderfully with my B&G instruments / chartplotter. 

-François 

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Matt Cowan

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Dec 18, 2025, 4:26:01 PM12/18/25
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Francois Rivard

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Dec 18, 2025, 4:47:44 PM12/18/25
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Also, I believe there's enough room in the same area to install the sonar sensor, especially if you remove the depth sensor which is no longer needed if you replace the speed paddle with a multi sensor.

Since it's forward of the keel it's probably a good spot for those "forward looking" sonars. 

-François 

Chuck Scheaffer

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Dec 18, 2025, 4:50:22 PM12/18/25
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Hey Matt,
I don't have drawings but the entire hull on the R model has balsa.  Wherever they placed a thru-hull or installed speed and depth, balsa was left out, and the balsa rounded over and the inner skin laminated onto the outer skin.  I attached a picture showing the area for my sensors.  They provided for three sensors, the middle one is on centerline and intended for speed.   Depth is installed in one to port,   The sink drain thru-hulls done in the same way.

Francois says his boat is not cored in that area, so maybe they changed how they did things on the + model.

Chuck

Speed and Depth Thruhulls inside.jpg

Tim Aseltine

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Dec 18, 2025, 4:58:27 PM12/18/25
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That’s very interesting. My transducers are under the v berth in the storage area. I guess  I should like under the floor panel for a look and see. #27.

Tim Aseltine

Sent from my iPad

On Dec 18, 2025, at 4:50 PM, Chuck Scheaffer <scheaff...@gmail.com> wrote:


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