Engine Alarm Mystery & Resolution – Loose Wire Behind the Binnacle

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Mike Maksimchuk

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Jun 1, 2025, 8:28:52 PM6/1/25
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Hey all,

Wanted to share a recent experience with our Catalina 355 (Amadeus, #94) in case it helps someone down the road with a similar issue.

The Problem:
We were out for our season shakedown sail last weekend—engine started up fine at the dock and idled smoothly. After a great sail around White Lake, I fired the engine back up to motor toward Lake Michigan. About 1–2 minutes after startup, the alarm buzzer went off unexpectedly. No warning lights came on (no high temp, no low oil pressure), but it definitely startled everyone onboard.

Water temp was reading normal (~150°F), voltage looked good (~13.5V), and the engine was spitting water just fine from the exhaust. Oil level and coolant levels were nominal, per the dipstick and the coolant reservoir.  We shut the engine down and sailed back in.

Initial Troubleshooting:

  • Cleaned out the raw water strainer and confirmed good flow through the intake hose.

  • Checked coolant and oil levels—both normal.

  • Verified the raw water impeller was intact and looked good.

  • Blew air through the intake hose with a shop vac to clear any possible blockages.

  • Used a multimeter to check the oil pressure sender before and after engine start—confirmed that it was functioning properly.

Still, the alarm would return within a minute of starting, with no indicator lights.

The Fix:
This weekend I decided to dig a bit deeper and removed the gauges from the binnacle. Sure enough—I found a disconnected wire behind the instrument panel, which I believe was the cause of the phantom alarm. It went from the low oil pressure to the alarm.

Once reconnected, everything worked exactly as expected—alarm behaved normally on startup, oil pressure light came on before cranking and turned off once the engine fired.

Final Thoughts:
Sometimes it really is a loose wire. I’m posting this in case anyone else experiences:

  • An alarm buzzer going off shortly after startup

  • No indicator lights triggering

  • All engine readings appearing normal

Check the connections behind your panel—it might save you a lot of head-scratching. Thanks to everyone who’s contributed to past threads—this forum is a great resource!

Mike Maksimchuk
295 Indian Bluffs NE | Sparta, MI 49345
email: mtma...@mtu.edu 
| mobile: (231) 225-5060

ken magida

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Jun 1, 2025, 8:51:22 PM6/1/25
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My tach has been flaky for some time.  It will work normally and then go to zero and after a few seconds or minutes will continue to work fine for a while.
I also checked the connections behind the tach and all were tight enough that I do not believe that was the problem. 
I will continue to check and will advise if I find the cause.

Ken
 
Ken Magida
FOREVER YOUNG
C355 #46
Port Washington, New York 11050
cell:      (516) 428-4577

From: catal...@googlegroups.com <catal...@googlegroups.com> on behalf of Mike Maksimchuk <mtma...@mtu.edu>
Sent: Sunday, June 1, 2025 20:28
To: catal...@googlegroups.com <catal...@googlegroups.com>
Subject: [Catalina 355:5769] Engine Alarm Mystery & Resolution – Loose Wire Behind the Binnacle
 
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Phil Kling

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Jun 1, 2025, 9:11:06 PM6/1/25
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Ken. 
I had the same issue last summer. The tachometer has a selector switch on the back that you can adjust using a small screwdriver. The setting is related to the number of alternator poles, which determines the number of electrical pulses per engine revolution.   
Note the position of the arrow on your tach.  It will point to one of the numbers on the case.
Now rotate the selector back and forth a few times using a small screwdriver. 
This should clean the contacts in the selector switch

Return the arrow to its original numbered position
Now start the engine and check the tach’s operation. 
If good reinstall the panel and have a rum. 

Phil Kling
Hull #5
“Perfect Day”



bill pittore

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Jun 1, 2025, 9:11:42 PM6/1/25
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Hi Ken,
 The tach receives a signal from the alternator. If you have the stock alternator then there is a yellow wire coming out of the alternator that connects to an orange wire that goes up to the pedestal. If that connection is loose you might get this problem.

Bill

ken magida

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Jun 2, 2025, 7:55:55 AM6/2/25
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I have a Balmar alternator but will check that next.
Ken Magida
Sent from my iPad,
An intelligent device which corrects my typing.


On Jun 1, 2025, at 21:11, bill pittore <bill.p...@gmail.com> wrote:

 Hi Ken,

bill pittore

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Jun 2, 2025, 9:23:35 AM6/2/25
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Hi Ken,
 I have a Balmar as well with the Balmar external regulator and I have the same issue. When the batteries get charged the regulator shuts off the field drive to the alternator and you don’t get the AC signal from the alternator to the tach. Occasionally if I’m desperate for a tach reading I turn off the ignition key (engine keeps running) for a moment then turn it back on. This turns the regulator back on even if for a moment and I can get a tach reading.

Bill

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