New Owner questions...

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Jeff Hare

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Sep 13, 2021, 9:30:12 PM9/13/21
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Hi all,

 

We’re new to the C355 community having recently purchased the super well-cared Solstice #17 from our good friend Jon Vez.  We have a few newbie questions for the group.  All of these are 2nd order importance, just working through my spare time list…

 

- Has anyone here replaced/altered the chocks on the toe rail with ones that have a wider line opening?  We find it a little difficult to get more than one line through the chocks and it’s challenging enough just to get one through. 

 

- The caulking/seal that joins the transom component to the main deck starts near the stern cleat and goes along the top of the transom and over to the other stern cleat area.  It’s time for me to renew this sealant. Has anyone else done this and what materials and advice do you have for doing this project?

 

- The mainsail furling is really nice, but the continuous furling line runs down to a pair of mast step blocks.  As a result, the inner of the two lines has a tendency to interfere with the center hatch. We’re considering replacing the outer mast step block a single Garhauer Double block (https://www.garhauermarine.com/blocks/double-blocks/double-blocks-with-shackle/double-block-with-shackle-25-17-ub.html)  and running the continuous line pair through that.  Looks like that would solve the hatch interference issue from that side anyway.  I’ll have to resplice that continuous line, but that shouldn’t be a big deal.

 

- The Garhauer rigid boom vang we had on our C320 could be easily adjusted by hand.  The Selden vang here is very stiff to adjust, it requires the use of a winch.  Is this normal or is there something I can lubricate or adjust to fix this? I did spray it and the blocks with SailKote which helped a lot, but it’s still not very usable.  I might consider replacing the small Selden blocks with Garhauer blocks and possibly add more purchase if there isn’t anything I can do to loosen it up a bit…  Also I plan to relocate the mast step block for this out to the port side aft-most mast step bail slot to help get it out of the way of the center hatch. That’ll require shifting two of the existing blocks forward one slot but should still have a fair lead up.

 

- Has anyone installed the Garhauer SB-4 Stanchion Blocks so that the furling line can be run in the gap between the stanchions and the toe rail?  Seems like it will increase the side deck walking area and reduce the number of toe stubbers up the port side.

 

- Interior LED lighting question.  Has anyone added a central dimmer to the interior main cabin overhead LED lights?  The ones there are bright which is great when you need that, but we’re looking to be able to soften them for the evening and/or maybe change the bulbs to a softer color index.

 

- Interior upholstery question.  We haven’t had the opportunity to see the interior salon cushions being made for the current hulls and how they’ve changed from the very early hulls. Would anyone care to share pictures of their interior main salon upholstery in some of the latest hulls?  We are considering upgrading to an UltraSuede/Alcantara or possibly another high end synthetic upholstery fabric. We love the feel of Ultra Leather but it’s just too darn slippery and if we’re going to remake them we’d like to lighten up the feel of the main cabin just a bit.  😊

 

- We’re hoping to install A/C and this hull doesn’t have factory ducting.  ☹  I just completed this project on our C320 prior to upgrading so I’ll be starting over here but at least have the benefit of a trial run even if this one will be quite different.  I know this topic has had quite a lot of discussion, but I’ll be considering several different options from a split compressor/air handler system to all in one units but it seems that getting adequate ducting run through the boat is going to be the main factor. I’m sure the swear jar will be super full by the time this particular job is finished.

 

Cheers!

-Jeff Hare

Solstice #17 

(Formerly Woodbine II C320 #809)

Jon Vez

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Sep 14, 2021, 6:42:24 PM9/14/21
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Hey Jeff,
Welcome to the forum, you have a great boat there 😎
The Vang-it is adjustable to a point and Selden has a couple of different spring mechanisms that you can swap out for less/more pressure. I know some hulls had the opposite problem and wanted something more stiff on their hulls.

Transom-scrape out the old with a plastic razor blade and then a plastic caulk remover (I believe the previous owner left one in the goop kit). I would use 3M UV4000 (won’t yellow) or sikaflex. Since the original is not silicone you don’t need to dig out all of the old stuff as it’s largely cosmetic…

Sent from my iPad

On Sep 13, 2021, at 9:31 PM, Jeff Hare <Cata...@thehares.com> wrote:


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Jonathan Salter

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Sep 14, 2021, 7:01:40 PM9/14/21
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Another thanks to Jon. I haven’t been here long but you’ve already provided a ton of info and experience.  Thanks so much!

Jeff,

We’re have some similar situations.

Recently there was a good discussion on running the Genoa furler outside the stantions, and even switching it to the stand side if needed. I haven’t made it to that project yet, but plan to at least switch to an outboard run.

Thanks for asking non the caulk, we also need to do that soon.

A winter project for me this year will
Be to install a diesel heater. Although not the same, I think my biggest question right now is the duct run also. I still haven’t picked a good route for this although I’m leaning towards the stand side. Any info anyone has on existing ducting out be appreciated.

Thanks all I have, more questions than help. Welcome to the group!

Jon Salter
Salty Cloud  #9

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On Sep 14, 2021, at 3:42 PM, Jon Vez <jonve...@gmail.com> wrote:

Hey Jeff,

Jeff Hare

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Sep 16, 2021, 10:27:31 PM9/16/21
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Bill,

 

Thanks!

Here are two kinds of ducting hoses I am looking at next.  If these don’t meet the need, I’ll keep looking.  I am not a big fan of running uninsulated ducts because of the condensation but really want the smoothest inner wall possible that will still retain shape in bends.  I am not afraid to pull the counter to run hidden ducting if needed, but I think I’ll be looking at a number of different options this fall, but really want to have something running for next summer if that’s possible.

 

This is a more industrial hose sized 2” and up.  I think I found a supplier for it.

https://www.novaflex.com/productcart/pc/U-Lok-900-73p632.htm

 

This looks like a good ducting hose, but I’d have to find a way to insulate it or see if this hose comes with an insulated option.

https://tridentmarine.com/product/trident-polyduct-481/#.YUP6QVVKhaR

 

As for the heat and A/C, it would be interesting to see whether a diesel forced air heater could be mounted in a way that would also use the same ducting as the A/C. 

 

-Jeff Hare

Solstice #17

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