CR34 chainplate measurements/diagrams

[Chuck Batson]

Does anyone have any diagrams or measurements for the CR34 chainplates?

I'm looking at potentially having to replace mine.

Chuck

CR34 #34 Sparklemuffin

San Rafael, CA

[Leslie Owen]

Chuck you can take your chain plates to a shop, instructing them to duplicate the design of the chain plate. If your design is two pieces sandwiched together (I doubt Your’s will be two pieces but the solid plate) you want to ensure they are made from the full, solid thickness as your plates probably currently are. 

Our vessel ( Hull no. 2) had the chain plates with two pieces of steel welded together. Also they were not the advertised 316 L stainless. The end result was she lost her rig around 13 or 14 years of age. Fortunately the owner had installed a very stout gallows that he said saved their lives. They were motoring in calm conditions in daylight with the main in the center of the boat just giving stability as they traveled in mild swells. He said that long boom would have been on them without that gallows. He had the plates analyzed. They failed due to crevice corrosion along with the fact they were not solid. The outside looked perfect. The inside was like dust. 

I don’t think you would want to change the chain plates. Just replace so it is a plug and play replacement. Good luck!

With kind regards,

Leslie

s/v Tango, CR 34, Hull no. 2, 1989

Sent from my iPad

On Sep 1, 2021, at 1:12 PM, Chuck Batson <cbat...@gmail.com> wrote:

Does anyone have any diagrams or measurements for the CR34 chainplates?

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[Chuck Batson]

Thank you Leslie, all very good info. I do indeed have the solid (not welded) plates. A couple are starting to show horizontal scratches or cracks. I was hoping to save some yard time by beginning the chainplate fabrication (using measurements and/or diagrams) before the old ones are pulled. Agreed on the 1:1 replacement without changes.

Best,

Chuck

[cab...@aol.com]

The solid chain plates should not have a problem. Have them die penetrate tested before you go to all that trouble. You can probably by a kit to test them yourself.

Sent from the all new AOL app for Android

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[LARRY BARKER]

I agree with with testing first.

L

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 2, 2021, at 9:16 AM, 'cab...@aol.com' via caborico <cabo...@googlegroups.com> wrote:

The solid chain plates should not have a problem. Have them die penetrate tested before you go to all that trouble. You can probably by a kit to test them yourself.

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/caborico/609639558.2188327.1630588585154%40mail.yahoo.com.

[Chuck Batson]

Had a metal expert look at the chainplates today, in situ. The "head" part where the clevis pin hole lives was made thicker by welding. It was welded on the top and sides, but not the bottom. You can see some staining at the bottom where there's no weld. At least one of them had some staining on the sides where there's been some water able to get in. A couple photos below. Also, the backing plates are aluminum.

I'm sure they're probably good for some additional time. But given their present age and my plans for several years of bluewater cruising, I'm leaning toward just getting it over with now. Considering having them fabricated in titanium by Colligo, which will be much less susceptible to corrosion.

Chuck

On Wednesday, September 1, 2021 at 10:12:06 AM UTC-7 Chuck Batson wrote:

[cab...@aol.com]

There fine. Spend the time sailing. I used washers to fill the gap. Still have one spot where the line will catch. One more washer. The welder was smart enough not to run a weld across the bottom. That is what causes the cracks to form.

Sent from the all new AOL app for Android

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