A few timely spring questions:
Is there a preferred length (each) for the
front/rear when upgrading to a coil-over set for a Dime,
assuming a lowering between 2 - 3 inch? I've seen after-market
sets with lengths that vary about 4-inches for either end (8" to
12"). Longer seems to allow more travel, thus preferred.
Is there any benefit for shorter/longer
lengths for a given rate (let's
assume a 200-lb/in rate)?
Reasons/logic for answers appreciated.
Paolo_____
Too long in the front and you will run into tire clearance problems. Too short in the rear and they can unweight and clank around corners. Many factors at play, length of shock or strut and desired final height being two main ones. Most of the time 8 in the front is good.
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Thanks for feedback.
Front tire clearance issues understood. Still, depending on strut tower mounting setup, there can be a 1-in height difference. It seems the length of strut tube should be irrelevant. Also, on a typical stock 510 setup with 14-in Z-type rims (or equivalent) with low C/L offset and wide-ish (195) tires, I typically measure about 1.6 to 1.75-in from strut to tire surface - enough to clear (it seems) a 3.5-in OD coil-over setup. Larger diameter rims with lower profile tires an/or more offset should provide even better clearance. As noted, a 2.5-in drop is the target lowering (3.0-in max).
Let's assume tire clearance is not an issue.
The rears could easily support 12-in
tall springs.
Examples of personal setups appreciated.
Paolo_____
Paolo,
While I can’t speak to rear coils, I recently went from 8” to 10” Springs on the front of my wagon. I wanted to lift it up a little and the collars were too close to the top of the strut for my liking. My wagon is lowered about 2” from Stock. 225# Front w/T3 Rear Leaf.
Nathan
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Great treatise Dave, thanks. I am aware of
the sizing for ride height and available travel. The ballpark
numbers you offered were damn close to this case in question.
My question was more theoretical and based
on not designing for the minimum safe size but using a
longer spring than needed for potential future changes and/or
better spring action. I've targeted a 10-in spring (QA1
hi-travel in this case) as best fitment but I could also use a
12-in spring. Spring weight difference is essentially
negligible. As I understand, the rate changes slightly (e.g.
chrome-silicon wire) as the spring compresses, thus a longer
spring should have a more linear behavior. Better, right? Is
this a reasonable approach?
Paolo_____
Ted,
Nice photo. If I scale your photo, I get about 23-mm (0.9-in) at tire's outer edge perpendicular to the strut tube and about 30-mm (1.2-in) at a point 2-in lower from bottom of spring perch to upper part of tire. Rather tight?
What is x-member-to-road clearance for typical stock ('70+ yr)
ride height using those tires - (165-mm) 6.5-in? Maybe
better to ask how much was the car lowered?
Was there any castor adjustment for that setup?
Paolo_____
Doesn't seem tight to me but those Toyo R888R tires are fat for their size, so there's that. But on my other 510 with the same strut/spring setup there's only ~2-3 mm clearance from the 205/50R15 tire to the strut tube with a 7" +21 wheel with the 15mm spacers. No idea what stock crossmember ground clearance is typical, nor how much my car is lowered relative to stock. I'll post a side view and measurements to the tops of the wheel arches that might help. I can also measure crossmember height on my other 510 with Safari springs/struts. Supposedly that setup raises ride height by 1" over stock. The struts are the same length as the tall '70-71 stock struts.