Removing the Table Cover - 1994 Oceanis 351

[Allen Dick]

I need to get into the guts of the cockpit table and instruments on my 1994 Oceanis 351 and cannot figure how the top is fastened on.  I found the two screws near the helm and now this end flexes up a bit but it seems to be fastened at the table and cooler and the top will not lift off.

Does anyone know where else it is fastened?  These two pictures may help.

[chris evans]

it doesn't its glassed   .What do you need to get to. Side panel comes off port side and engine panel unscrews out.  join 351/352 facebook you will get more info there every manual for your boat ,from rigging to engine /transmission   over 360 members with same boat worldwide

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[DAVID FLETCHER]

If appears the same as the one on my 400.

The top is single piece. Bonded to the base with a 5200 type of adhesive. 

Not sure you are getting them to separate, in a efficient manner. 

There was an access from the side and and another below the cockpit sole. 

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 18, 2022, at 6:28 PM, Allen Dick <alle...@gmail.com> wrote:



I need to get into the guts of the cockpit table and instruments on my 1994 Oceanis 351 and cannot figure how the top is fastened on.  I found the two screws near the helm and now this end flexes up a bit but it seems to be fastened at the table and cooler and the top will not lift off.

Does anyone know where else it is fastened?  These two pictures may help.

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[Mark J Wilme]

you might also cut a hole in the side and add a deck plate or similar afterwards

something like : https://www.fisheriessupply.com/nicro-snap-in-deck-plates

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[allendick]

>The top is single piece. Bonded to the base with a 5200 type of adhesive. Not sure you are getting them to separate, in a efficient manner.    

Thanks.  I was afraid of something like that.  I need to work on the shift lever and it will not go in or out of the hole where it is mounted.  I want to change the side of the shifter rocker that the shift cable is on because my new transmission lever operates opposite to the old one.  It is clear the shifter is designed for that but I cannot reach it well enough through the access holes.  I's also like to take the top off to do a few other things.  I'd also like to lube the shifter. 

Are we certain the top is glued on?  That would seem to be stupid as there are screws at the helm end and lifting it would make a lot of jobs simpler.

I do have the option -- possibly -- of inverting the lever on the transmission but the clearance is iffy.

>> I need to get into the guts of the cockpit table and instruments on my 1994 Oceanis 351 and cannot figure how the top is fastened on.  I found the two screws near the helm and now this end flexes up a bit but it seems to be fastened at the table and cooler and the top will not lift off. Does anyone know where else it is fastened?

[Mark J Wilme]

Did I see cross head screws on the surrounds of the instruments indicating they could be removed from the front? wondering if you could pop those out and put a mirror or small camera (cellphone?) in there and see what's going on inside 

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[Allen Dick]

Yes I removed the two screws by the helm and the piece seems to be one
piece alone until it gets to the table at which point it saddles over
the lower table part.

The only other fasteners I see are the fittings for where the tables
hinge down and fasten.  I had wondered if any of them protrude through
to the inner piece but think not.  The glued-down suggestion seems to
fit unless there are hidden fasteners I have missed.

[Mark J Wilme]

I had one of those perspex screens on our OC381 attached with a couple of chrome hinges. If yours is similar leave them alone, they were affixed with self tapping screws and the act of removing them can erode the threads in the fiberglass to the point that you can't fasten them again without modification.

I could get inside the fiberglass housing by removing a flat panel that the instruments are housed within, but your appears to be one piece

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[Allen Dick]

>  I could get inside the fiberglass housing by removing a flat panel that the instruments are housed within, but your appears to be one piece

Yup.  It is one piece that looks as if it should just lift off but doesn't.

The question is now moot though because I found that the plate and clamp to hold the shift cable at the tranny have hols ore-drilled to allow me to invert it so the cable is lowered and I can swing the lever down instead of up.  That allows the cable to shift in the opposite direction from now without altering the shifter.

Thanks everyone -- and if anyone learns how to lift that piece off, I'd still like to know but it looks hopeless.

[DAVID FLETCHER]

I think if you remove the shifter handle. ( held with a set screw ) you then can pop off the black plastic trim cover. You. An access the shifter mechanism, it is held with a sandwich style

Mount. 

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 19, 2022, at 3:05 PM, Mark J Wilme <mark....@gmail.com> wrote:



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[Allen Dick]

Thanks.  I did all that but the mechanism is out of reach in behind. The
thing won't go in and it won't go out.

That does not matter anymore because I put it back together and inverted
the shifter down below.  I took it for a run and it is all good.

[Allen Dick]

> I could get inside the fibreglass housing by removing a flat panel that the instruments are housed within, but your appears to be one piece

Although I no longer need access right now, I had neglected that possibility.  I have lifted the instrument cluster before and it does allow some limited access.

It also allows reaching the back of the instruments and recently I discovered after buying a handheld strobe tach that when my instrument says 1500 RPM, the accurate instrument says 1617.

So I plan to see if I can adjust it.  I know I could on my Bavarias. That small difference is actually significant especially if that percentage carries on to higher RPM.

As mentioned, I recently changed the transmission and the used one I got is 2.2:1+/-.  It has no label.  i calculated the ratios by marking the crank pulley and turning the output shaft a measured amount. That is a tedious and approximate process unless one uses a protractor.  I did not.

The Hurth I replaced is 2.53:1 and IMO, the boat was under-propped at that ratio.

On previous trips with the old tyranny I had to turn 2800 to match my friends who were turning 2200 or so and full throttle was at least 3400.  That is the power point but IMO it is too high for comfort.  I figure is 2800 was the max I'd be happy.

On my short test after installing the almost new unit, I was going 6.2 knots one way and 5.8 the other at 2400 RPM and that was the highest the engine would rev under that load so I think I need to adjust the max prop a bit.  (The bottom was pretty dirty)

Thanks for all the inputs.  I'm always happy to hear any thoughts before I go do something stupid. (Like force that tabletop)

[Allen Dick]