End of Confusion

[the web guy]

I'm getting requests for the Owners' Contact list. Sending me your mobile number alone is not adequate, so I am learning the most secure way to share it. Email fails any security test, however I will be sending a secure link to everyone on the list using Dropbox. It will go to your email address, and all you do is click on the link to download the list in PDF format. Dropbox uses end to end encryption, so unless your email is hacked, the document is secure.

Again, let me know if your want your contact information REMOVED from the list. Otherwise it will go out this week to all owners whose email addresses I have on file.

[Gary L]

Hi,

I would like to receive the list. Previous owners (and worked at the factory) of 3 Aurora's and would like to track down where they are.

Thanks,

Gary

[adrien...@gmail.com]

Hello Tom , 

How are you doing in those crazy times ? 

I would love to have the list of Aurora owners please . My mobile is +33620818080 , wasap or messenger works .

You already knew that I purchased #141 from California end of 2019 to import it to Corsica , France but I also purchased #126 from Mecum Auctions in Arizona in 2020 to import it to Paris France . I now am lucky enough to have one Aurora in each of my houses :-) .

Best Regards, stay safe.

Adrien Pierini

[Tom Wallerich]

Adrien

Very nice to own two Auroras, congratulations. We need good pictures of both for your gallery page on the web site.

[Fabrice FRAYSSINET]

Good evening, I have recently become the proud owner of the cobra Aurora 142. I see on this list of owners that it belonged to Mr. Terrance Kane. 
I introduce myself in a few words. my name is Fabrice Frayssinet and I live in the south of France in the department of aveyron. I am extremely happy to discover this car which brings me a lot of pleasure right now. I will keep you informed of the small changes I plan to make. From now on, I see that the engine is poorly cooled. so I have to consider improving the ventilation. Do you have any advice to give me ? see you soon Sincerely, fabrice

Le lundi 15 mars 2021 à 23:22:43 UTC+1, the web guy a écrit :

[comp...@cox.net]

Fabrice

 

I was the owner of # 156 and it also has a cooling problem.

I looked on the internet to find an aluminum radiator fabricator.

I made very precise measurements and the unit fit properly and stopped the heating problem

 

John Perry

California USA

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[pet deg]

Fabrice 

We'll let me be first or the last to welcome to you our pretty small club .

As far as cooling or any other problems you might have " Aurora google groups " is a very good source . If you log in and type " cooling " or " radiator" into conversations box you will see what I did . I post under spike until I lost password and started using guzz .

An aluminum radiator and Spal electric fan solve all my cooling problems for about $ 300 US . Thats in Atlanta in summer with A/C running stuck in traffic ( Yes, I have an original air-conditioned car)  and love it .

I also posted about wheels / brakes / Top supports / suspension / engine and electrical , the garage section of the Aurora owner's website is also excellent .

Now you will notice that I do stuff on the " cheap " but that's only because I guess I am cheap , so there are a lot of solutions to problems that are better looking or better performing but I'm very happy with my car now and use it all the time . especially since a guy sideswiped my Alfa and totaled it so now, I drive the Aurora all the time.

I'll be happy to pass along any info I might have and maybe give you some other options on some of the problem areas.

Peter # 78

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From: auror...@googlegroups.com <auror...@googlegroups.com> on behalf of Fabrice FRAYSSINET <fib...@gmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2021 4:14 PM

To: AuroraCobra <auror...@googlegroups.com>
Subject: [auroracobra] Re: End of Confusion

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[pet deg]

Just out of curiosity how much did that radiator cost ? and did you hook up a new electric fan ? I'm always going on about my $300 fix and wondering if I'm full of B/S .

Thanks Peter # 78

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From: auror...@googlegroups.com <auror...@googlegroups.com> on behalf of comp...@cox.net <comp...@cox.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2021 5:58 PM
To: auror...@googlegroups.com <auror...@googlegroups.com>
Subject: RE: [auroracobra] Re: End of Confusion

 

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[Fabrice FRAYSSINET]

hello Peter, thank you very much for your post.  thank you very much for welcoming me to your group of enthusiasts.  I will look in the group.  I'll get back to you quickly.  Again, thank you very much.  see you soon.  I wish you a nice day from the south of France.

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[Fabrice FRAYSSINET]

hello, John

thank you very much for your message.

the former owner had already put an aluminium radiator and it's very good. I think the air conditioning radiator prevents air from coming properly on the engine radiator. So I'm going to remove air conditioning and add two fans to the engine radiator and I'm going to keep the existing fan between the radiator and the engine.

thank you so much for having answered me so quickly.

i hope it’s good in California. We’re here in France, we’re going to have a beautiful sunny day.

it's nice to have you back by e-mail.

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[pet deg]

Let me ask 

Will the car overheat while its moving ? let's say anything over 25 mph ( 40 kph ) ? Does the car cool down once you start moving if it got hot ?

If it does the radiator probably has enough airflow and capacity.

If it only gets hot when stuck in traffic it means your fan is not pulling enough air . Fan should be able to sit and cycle ( run about 50 % of time ) when car is sitting idling in hot weather to keep temp at 185 F ( 85 C ) .

As I said I replaced my original electric fan with a 16-inch Spal fan. Now cfm ratings on fans are misleading but a good way to judge them is by the power they draw , that Spal pulls 30 amps so you need a good relay .

Install is very simple and much cleaner than original ( if your car is same as mine was ) . Just thought you might want to try this before pulling A/C radiator out ( condenser ) unless you were going to do that anyway .

There are a lot smarter guys than me on this website so maybe they will comment but there is no way you should have to have more than one good electric fan .

Post a picture of fan and radiator and condenser if you like , just to make sure what you have installed .

Peter

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From: auror...@googlegroups.com <auror...@googlegroups.com> on behalf of Fabrice FRAYSSINET <fib...@gmail.com>

Sent: Sunday, April 25, 2021 1:16 AM
To: auror...@googlegroups.com <auror...@googlegroups.com>
Subject: Re: [auroracobra] Re: End of Confusion

 

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[AL SINCLAIR]

Good morning before you replace the radiator which is a great fix Perhaps try an old fashioned cooling system flush to remove the sediment (if any)

and the old coolant, which degrades over time and no longer inhibits rust and corrosion, This is usually indicated by the discoloration of the coolant from the bright green to a muddy brown .  Unfortunately  with there is  no radiator cap on the radiator it is hard to see if there is a build up  on the internal tubes.  As Peter suggested it is probably time to change the radiator, in the good old days we used to lightly rub our finger on the fins between the tubes on  the rad  core. If they bend over easily it is time to replace the radiator . One other thing is check the thermostat; it may not be opening all the way or the radiator cap is defective, releasing at a lower pressure .

Good luck 

Al from Ontario 

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[Fabrice FRAYSSINET]

Dear Al Sinclar

  The radiator is not original.  it is about an aluminum radiator which precisely has a cap on it.  the liquid is brilliant green.  I think especially that it is the fan which is not very effective.  when we look inside the radiator we see that all the fins are very clean.  in addition, there is no thermostat because you have to switch on the fan.

Have a good day,

Fabrice

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[Fabrice FRAYSSINET]

Good evening peter,

the car started to heat up after about 40 km.  the temperature rose to over 250 F with the fan on!

  I think it is the fan that is not efficient.  in the photo you can see the radiator and the small radiator of the air conditioning.  I find it very surprising that on this car there is no thermostat to turn on the fan.

The solution considered at the moment is to press the fan against the radiator (remove the 2cm of air between the fan and the radiator to improve the suction efficiency of the fan).  In addition, a fan would be added in front of the radiator to help to "push" the air.  We would add a thermostat to automatically trigger the current fan when the temperature rises + a forced start button for the second fan.  What do you think about this idea ?

Have a good day,

Fabrice

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[the web guy]

I’m told by my mechanic the engine has many things which contribute to overheating. Among them is the diameter of the exhaust. Aurora original exhaust pipes were 1-3/4” and just replacing them with 2” or even 2-1/4” like Aurora #151 did for racing will improve flow and reduce restriction. The emissions suppression schemes of the 1980s were very restrictive. The cast iron exhaust manifolds should be replaced with “headers” for smoother flow. 

[Fabrice FRAYSSINET]

good evening, Dear web guy

indeed, I think you have a very good idea. I will look on this side too because I am quite agreed with you. Do you know where I can order spare parts or do I have them in France?

Have a good day. 

Fabrice 

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[the web guy]

This is a project I’ve been meaning to include in the Garage page - replacing the Ford HiPo cost iron exhaust manifolds with welded headers. The full header kit which most closely fits in the Aurora is Hedman Part 88400. The full kit includes gaskets, bolts, etc. The driver’s side bolts right in with no modification. Your favorite welder will need to slightly modify the passenger side header as shown in the drawing. Mine’s been flawless and really improves air flow through the engine. Audibly different, not so “chuffs” sounding.

[AL SINCLAIR]

Fabrice thank you for your comments. The picture helps a lot. It would appear that a  part of the car is missing the small piece of sheet metal 

that goes between the body and the radiator . 

 I could see from your pictures that the holes are there but no metal . 

This would allow the airflow that should go through the rad to go over the top and not through the radiator.  This over the top airflow could create a slight  vacuum in front of the rad  limiting the airflow 

 I cannot tell by the picture if the overflow tube from the top of the rad is connected to a bottle so that when the car  cools down the coolant is replenished back into the radiator. 

The thermostat I was referring to was the one attached to the engine in the housing the upper radiator hose connects to  It can restrict  flow if they

do not open all the way.  Does the car take a long time to warm up?

I have attached a picture of the metal I am referring to 

When you say the car overheated after 40 KM was this at  a constant speed or in stop and go traffic

Good luck Al Sinclair

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[pet deg]

Evening Fabrice

First let me get you to take some better pictures than the ones I got .

1) close up down low of fan ( is there a shroud ? ) Couple of shots and closeups .

2) couple from " mouth" of car so I can see how much condenser is blocking radiator .

3) how many miles on car ?

Both what Al and Tom said of course are true , but if it was me, I would start with the simplest things first.

1) As Al suggested go ahead and flush cooling system . 

2) check old thermostat , put it in a pot of water bring to boil with meat thermometer in water to see when it opens ,. I use 180 F thermostat in my car . temp should be printed on thermostat but check it's working . ( don't let your wife catch you )

3) squeeze both supply and return hoses of Radiator , see how stong "walls " of rubber feel. Old hoses can sometimes collapse under pressure blocking flow.

4) after you do all that, I would pull fuse to fan or just disconnect it so fan doesn't run ,start car and take for a drive when you're not going to get stuck in traffic. Drive it sees what temp does, I wouldn't suggest letting it get up to 250 again . 

I would say that fan does look kind of puny but car should not even need fan if car is moving to keep it cool, but hard to tell from pictures.

Your idea of closing gap of radiator / fan is good but do one thing at a time , if radiator can't keep car cool when moving and even cool it down after sitting and getting hot ( 210/220 ) then the main problem isn't the fan .

On cars like this its lack of use that can be a big problem , especially on rubber and switches . Something might have very few miles but is 20 + years old .

Fan thermostats are cheap , a setup with probe / relay and rheostat is $50 here in states . I am a big fan of Summit racing they seem to have just about everything . Just put in type of engine in the search box ( they don't have Aurora in their data base ) .

Now remember this is what I would do , but I have always been a safe distance from genius. 

Peter

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From: auror...@googlegroups.com <auror...@googlegroups.com> on behalf of Fabrice FRAYSSINET <fib...@gmail.com>

Sent: Sunday, April 25, 2021 12:32 PM

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[Fabrice FRAYSSINET]

hello, Peter

thank you very much for all your advice!

i will do the tests you tell me and tell you.

i really don’t have all your knowledge and experience.

i think I'm gonna take the car to an old car specialist because I don't want to damage the engine.

excuse me if my messages are not clear because I translate with Google and it is not very effective with technical words.

thank you for your valuable help.

i'll keep you informed.

Have a good day.  

Fabrice

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[pet deg]

Fabrice , 

That's fine but all those checks are really simple and the only knowledge I have are the mistakes I've made that I'm not going to repeat .  I always change all the fluids in an old car when I first get it and I mean engine/ transmission / differential and radiator. That gives you a good starting point for fluid changes down the road as well as helping spot any problems. Make sure your guy checks out this link of goggle groups. The radiator was a stock old mustang item for $160 and fan was at $150 in case it comes to that . add in a rheostat with A/C line for $ 50/60.

As you'll note my car could use a little cleaning and paint but that's down the road . Let us all know what the problem turns out to be.

Peter

https://groups.google.com/g/auroracobra/c/vuH6rBht_eM/m/UGJ4z6a-BwAJ

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From: auror...@googlegroups.com <auror...@googlegroups.com> on behalf of Fabrice FRAYSSINET <fib...@gmail.com>

Sent: Monday, April 26, 2021 6:58 AM

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[Fabrice FRAYSSINET]

ok peter.

I take note of your advice. I found a specialist in vintage cars near my home. I'll take it to him and tell you what he thinks about it.

Have a good day

Fabrice 

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