P40 Ballpark Standing Rigging Cost

[Tim Dollowitch]

Hello, I've just purchased a P40 and am looking for info on ballpark standing rigging costs. I haven't asked for quotes yet as it's in SF Bay and I'm having it shipped to Virginia so it didn't seem worth a survey locally.

Ideally I'll have the shrouds and chainplates made and then install then myself. ANy sort of recent figures would be helpful for my planning though.

Thanks!

[Michael Moradzadeh]

I have rerigged a couple times.  I am thinking $7k

I advise against going with rod, as it will stress the hull.  I wonder, however, whether Cayenne's forestay is still sitting in the yard at berkeley marine center.  I bet Gary would sell it cheap.

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[Jeff Beller]

Tim,

Our rig is an Isomat spar on a 1984 P40. I've done the job twice on our P40, once 19 years ago just after we bought Journey, and then again two years ago.  I did all the work myself, just having a rigger do the swaging.  I had the mast unstepped by the yard, disassembled and reassembled rigging all myself, then the yard restepped the mast.  See the attached document for my inventory of rigging pieces and wire.  The total shows about $2300, but that doesn't include the swaging (ask around but I think it was about $30/swage), any backstay insulator (these run $400-$500 each, Ouch!), and I was able to reuse the norseman fittings inside the forestay furler.  It also doesn't include the cost to have the yard unstep and restep the mast (about $500 for me).  I sourced the rigging through RiggingOnly.com on the east coast. They are very helpful.

I considered doing mechanical fittings but after much research was persuaded otherwise.  They are about three times as expensive, cost a lot more labor wise, and the life of the wire is still the same. On a cost basis, you have to rerig three times to break even, so that doesn't make sense.  Swaged fittings are fine if you swap and replace the rigging on the timely basis (12-14 years where we live).  And I've taken apart a number of norseman fittings that had scary corrosion inside, so they aren't immune either.   All the professional riggers I talked to recommended swaged fittings.  If you want a do-it-yourself at sea repair capability, bring a couple mechanical fittings in your spares.  Also, on my mast the top end of each piece of rigging is a stemball fitting and those are only available in swaged. 

Turnbuckles don't necessarily need to be replaced.  I replaced mine because the chrome was all gone, so for cosmetics.

Backstay insulators, needed if you want to use an HF SSB radio.  On our boat, the bottom of the backstay is not grounded so I only needed an insulator at the top, saving a good chunk of change.

If you have existing Norseman fittings that you want to reuse (like within the headstay furler), the cones for Norseman are no longer available.  However, Tylaska does sell cones compatible for Norseman fittings.

So all total, I probably spent around $4000.  $7000, as suggested by one of the other P40 owners, to have a rigger do everything is probably in the ballpark. 

Later, I ended up replacing my Tides Marine Strong Track, which I wished I had done while the mast was down.

Chainplates:  Over the years I have replaced about half of mine.  Usually, they get crevice corrosion right where they go through the teak deck and you cannot see that without removing them. I would pull them all out while you have the mast down and replace as needed.  I made my own chainplates, as I have access to a band saw that will cut stainless plate.  Grinding and polishing is the hard part and a lot of work. I can't give you an estimate to have these made.

Also, not included here is a backstay adjuster if other than a simple turnbuckle. 

Jeff Beller

S/V Journey

Ventura, CA

On Wed, Aug 10, 2022 at 10:18 AM Tim Dollowitch <tdoll...@gmail.com> wrote:

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[psherwood]

It was my experience as well that the crevice corrosion occurred on the
through-deck part of the chainplates (makes sense that it would happen
there). I had the new chainplates cut and drilled by water jet, to avoid
heat buildup. The water jet did add a bit of cost to the project, but
not that much in the larger scheme of things.

Phil
ex-Cynosure

[Tim Dollowitch]

Thanks Jeff, that's very helpful. I'm headed back to the boat Sunday to prep her for shipping to Virginia next Wednesday so I'll be able to take a look at everything then. I'm planning on labeling the shrouds and marking the turnbuckes before the mast comes off so I'll be able to easily measure everything on the ground. I do have an SSB so I'll have to plan for that. I haven't been up the mast and skipped the aloft inspection since I knew I was going to replace the rigging anyway.

I'm going to price out titanium chainplates I think. We'll see what I go with. Fingers crossed the knees are solid. There's no water stains on them so we'll see.

Question, do you have double spreaders?

I'll update this as I progress.

Tim Dollowitch

[Tim Dollowitch]

I'm measuring my rigging here and all of my shrouds including the forestay and backstay are the same size, 5/16". Aren't fore and back stays usually a larger size wire than the shrouds?

[Kenyon Stewart]

The forestay, backstay and upper or cap shrouds are usually the same.  The lower shrouds will be a size down from that typically.

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[Tim Dollowitch]

I've been doing some digging and found a great post by Bob P on his FB group where he talks about standing rigging sizes and includes some drawings of various designs, the P40 among them. The drawing shows 5/16" wire and 5/16" thick chainplates. My chainplates are 1/4" and I'm considering going with 5/16" as designed. Any one else do so?

I have some thoughts on his calcs but will reserve them u till I've got a copy of Brian Toss's rigging book and SKENE’S ELEMENTS OF YACHT DESIGN in hand.

Bob's post:

Bob P on Standing Rigging Sizes

Tim

SY Aurora

P40 #124

[Jeff Beller]

I checked our P40. All our chain plates are 5/16".

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[Tim Dollowitch]

As an update, I'm having new 5/16" rigging built for $3800. This is in Norfolk, VA. That excludes the backstay which I'm going to have Colligo Marine make for me with a wire for the SSB fed through the center. the insulators are so expensive that I may as well go with dyneema as it'll cost the same. I'm also not having the stay'sl stay done at this time, as I'm going to do that and the running backstays with dyneema also.

My rig was on the ground and I'll re-install and tune everything myself so the cost is really just for material and swagging.

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