Windlass - Plinth

[Peter Grabow]

Hello All!

I would appreciate a bit of input on my upcoming project of installing a windlass on my 30 Ultra - I have not yet purchased the windlass. I have read the other discussions on the group regarding windlass/plinths installations but still have some questions.

1) I have pretty much narrowed down my windlass selection to the Maxwell RC8-8 - vertical windlass (no capstan) using 5/16" chain and 5/8" 8 plait rode.  I like the construction, the small footprint, and Maxwell's customer service seems to be solid. I have pretty much ruled out a horizontal (completely above deck) installation as the units tend to be larger/bulkier and possibly more of a tripping hazard - just my opinion.

2) Maxwell's instruction sheet for the RC8-8 indicates a maximum of a 6 Degree angle is permissible from the bow-roller (my bow-rollers have two height settings available) to the windlass gypsy. On the lower position of the bow-roller, I have calculated that I would need a plinth of 1 1/2" - 2" in thickness to raise the windlass to stay within the 6 degree angle of approach.

a) what is the easier/better material to use to make the plinth? Teak, Starboard, etc?

Can someone recommend a quality source that has good quality and reasonable pricing?

Suggestions on how to fabricate the plinth?

I do not have a workshop, or an abundance of tools with which to construct the plinth (i.e. no power jigsaw, grinders, etc). I do have basic tools, hole saws (correct sizes for the Maxwell RC8-8), Dremel, and proper wire crimping tools. 

I may have access to someone's workshop that does have proper woodworking tools.

b) If using a wood (teak, etc.) which is the best product to seal the wood plinth - an epoxy? 

I read Barry Connell's input (from about 1 year ago) regarding System 3 Silvertip and will look to use that to seal the edges of the drilled deck holes - can this be used to seal a wood plinth too? I have read that some of West System's epoxy may work well too.

3) Is epoxy the best adhesive to use to adhere the plinth to the deck?  Or will LifeCaulk Sealant work as well if applied carefully to the entire lip of the plinth base?

4) As unstepping/stepping the mast in my area (NY/NJ) has become ridiculously expensive ($2000 roundtrip now!!) and I am no longer flexible enough to squeeze back out of the locker compartment (I can probably get in... but would prefer not to stay there indefinitely) I have decided it would be best to put in a 6" access port (Beckson plate) centered on my current hawse pipe location - similar to what Paul Miller did on Sandpiper. 

My calculations show that this will allow for enough arm reach to get to the underside of the windlass/motor to position and tighten the bolts.

I only carry a single anchor on my bow, so with the installation of the windlass the hawse pipe will no longer be needed.

 - Thoughts?

This is where I am at the moment - again any thoughts at the moment, especially on the fabrication of the plinth, would be greatly appreciated!

Thank you,

Peter Grabow

S/V CAKE WALK III

1987 30U 430

Jersey City, NJ

 

[Daniel Weinstein]

Peter-

I would favor using a synthetic material, not teak.  If you go with teak, you can seal it with epoxy, but epoxy has no UV resistance, so you'll still need to paint or varnish it.  Do not epoxy the plinth to the deck- someone will curse you later.  Use an adhesive sealant, a polysulfide like Lifecaulk, or 3M 4200 (not 5200).  For above the waterline, I've actually started using the new water-based construction adhesive sealants, like phenoseal.  Just avoid silicone.

Dan Weinstein

Look Farther  30C  #205

East Greenwich RI 

[Mark Powers La Reina 26C Vancouver, B.C.]

Peter,

 I think any rot resistant dense hardwood would work such as IPE or Purple Heart. If you want nontropical wood Black Locust would also be good.There are a number of species referred to as Iron Wood that would be dense enough but I don't know how they rate in terms of rot resistance.

I used IPE for the plinth because I had some scrap pieces from an old garden bench in the garage. I oiled it because the oil is easier to maintain the varnish. I second Dan's comments.

One issue with Starboard is that it is difficult to get adhesives to stick to it. Something like G10 fibreglass board might be better   https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/product/product-detail/8758

My understanding is that it is important that the chain run in a straight line from the bow roller to the gypsy on the windlass. The chain does not need to be parallel to the water. The chain does need to be high enough to clear any obstructions on the foredeck. It is possible that a plinth that is angled so that it is higher in the front will give you a straight run for the chain without having to raise the windlass as high. 

I helped a friend install a Maxwell RC8-8 vertical windlass on his C&C 34. We need to make a shelf inside the anchor lock for the windlass to mount on. I made a rough mock up of the winch and gypsy out of foam insulation to allow us to get the correct height and angle of the shelf and brackets.  This allowed us to check that the install would work before he purchased the windlass and it was much easier to hold the foam in place than it would have been holding the weight of the windlass.  You might want to consider making sample plinths out of foam to make sure everything works before you start carving and cutting wood or fibreglass.

Mark Powers 

[Bruce Clark]

I would not be wild about using teak. If you want hardwood, consider iroko. It looks very much like teak and is fraction of the price. For my exterior teak I have started using Epifanes two-pack paint. It comes in a clear colour. Follow this up with one coat of Epifanes varnish for extra UV protection. When it needs, just sand the varnish and put another coat of the varnish on. Looks really good and stands up well.

If you want to avoid wood I agree with the comment about G10. I have used it for backing plates for winches that are visible inside the cabin. It is compressed fibreglass so you can paint it. It can be quite pricey in North America. I bought some on Aliexpress and the quality was excellent and the price good. Delivery was fairly quick and cheap.

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[Thor (26C Brentwood Bay BC)]

I used purple heart. No varnish . I oil it from time to time with tung oil  There is so little exposed takes 2 minutes.

Sealed with simple butyl tape. 

On Friday, December 1, 2023 at 8:51:12 AM UTC-8 Peter Grabow wrote:

[Peter Grabow]

Thank you to all for your inputs (if there are more, please continue to add)!

I will take the above recommendations into consideration and try to figure out what will work with my very limited woodworking skills.

Many thanks!

Peter 

S/V CAKE WALK III

1987 30U 430

Jersey City, NJ

[Brian @ SV Serenity]

Sorry to be joining the conversation late.

When I had the bow end of the deck re-done a couple of years ago, the (Maxwell) windlass came off.  I took the opportunity to get the motor and gearbox refreshed, cleaned, lubed, fresh oil, etc.  The windlass sits on a teak plinth, angled to more or less correspond with the angle of the deck, and it is slightly angled from straight fore-aft so that the chain is relatively straight for a significant run from the bow roller.

I sanded the plinth down to bare wood, took care of some cosmetic dings, and put about five or six coats of Halcyon to seal.  It gets a quick rubdown with a white scrubbing pad (along with the rest of the teak) and a coat or two a year.

I did not secure the plinth to the deck, but figured the six or eight bolts would suffice.  I use the windlass once a year, at most.  I sealed the joins between deck and plinth, and between plinth and windlass with caulk, though it ended up being much messier than I would like.

The windlass was originally installed in the late nineties by previous owner, and the teak was still in great shape.

n.b.  Woodworker with a shop, though the vast majority of the stripping and sanding was done with hand tools and by hand.

Brian

SV Serenity

Nonsuch Nereus #003

Pax River, MD

On Friday, December 1, 2023 at 11:51:12 AM UTC-5 Peter Grabow wrote:

[Peter Grabow]

Thank you, Brian.

The additional information is helpful!

Peter