On Jan 24, 2023, at 9:33 AM, David Godfrey <dgodfr...@gmail.com> wrote:
Hello All,
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Model: T-105
Dimensions Inches (MM) - Length: 10.30in (262) Width: 7.13 (181) Height 11.07 (281)
Terminal Height Inches (mm)1.22 (31) - Bolt 5/16
Weight: 62LBS
They are rated at 225ahs. The extra height was an issue for fitting them under the quarter berths on the 26 but they may fit under the berth on the 30 classic. If you can fit them in they probably give the most amp hours for the dollar of any batteries so long as you look after them. They would certainly meet the requirements of your boat. Because they are 6 volt you would have to wire them in series which would give you a 225 ah 12 volt bank or about 3 days on anchor with no other source of charging. You could have two golf cart batteries for a house bank and a group 24 for starting. Alternatively you could use the house bank for house loads and starting and just have the group 24 as a emergency reserve battery. The start battery would rarely be run down and you could get away with the 50 amp alternator (75 to 80 would still be better). I am with Thor on this and would go with the Trojan golf cart batteries. The maroon ones, not the black ones that you can buy at Costco. I don't think you will see enough benefit to justify the extra cost of the AGMs unless you don't look after your batteries. AGMs are sealed and don't need topping up with water. If you don't keep wet cell batteries full you will kill them. As long as your shore power charger is a reasonable size you would not need to replace it.
Mark Powers
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I spend my entire season on moorings. I have 200 watts of solar attached to the Bimini with a 30-amp MTTP controller. On a good day the panels can do about 6 amps with full sun for about 6 to 8 hours. Otherwise, it is about 3 amps
My house back is 3 group 31 deep cycle marine AGMs that are located under the Starboard side settee. The starter is 1 group 31 AGM dual purpose.
I have an ISOTHERM ASU COLD PLATE ASSEMBLY that draws about 3 amps when running.
The boat came with an OFF, 1, 2 and ALL battery switch
The two things I added that you should consider.
1) Blue Sea ACR BatteryLink Automatic Charging Relay, 120A 12V/24VDC | West Marine. This keeps the starting battery separated but allows it to be charged.
2) Blue Sea low voltage cut off. I put this on the Cold Plate circuit. It will automatically shutoff the frig if the house batteries are getting low. m-LVD Low Voltage Disconnect | West Marine.
Peter Farley
Knot in a Hurry u30 #328
Keyport NJ
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The ACR keeps the starting battery separated from the house bank, when it senses the alternator is charging the batteries or the Solar panels are above a certain output it closes and combines the battery banks while the charging current is detected. It will also separate them if one side is too low.
You can think of it as an intelligent 1, 2, all off switch. I just leave my switch on 2, my house bank. Then the Solar panels and ACR take care of the batteries.
In my case my alternator and solar charger are both single line chargers. I do have a dual output battery charger but have not used in in 3 years.
Here is a nice writeup from Blue Seas.
Automatic Charging Relay (ACR) Explained - Blue Sea Systems
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David,
Check out these articles on Marine How To web site…
https://marinehowto.com/automatic-charging-relays/
https://marinehowto.com/1-2-both-battery-switch-considerations/
In the ACR article, about 2/3 of the way down, under the sub-heading Connecting Other Charging Sources, there is a very good wiring diagram that is easy to follow and covers all common 12v devices connected to your batteries. I downloaded the image and enlarged and printed. Used this to install new batteries, bus, 12V wires, fuses, etc, last summer.
Also a note of caution, I found that my the location of the terminals on the back of my main battery switch do not directly correspond with the graphics (1/both/2/off) on the front of the switch. I tested mine and wrote on back with felt pen. Later found it is embossed in the plastic housing, but very difficult to see. Yours maybe different.
Victron also makes a low voltage cutoff switch, somewhat cheaper than Blue Sea depending on the amperage, comes in 3 sizes, 65/100/200 amps.
I know the Balmer volt meter is considered somewhat better than the Victron, but when you add the optional Bluetooth unit, it is a lot more expensive than the Victron. Plus the Victron networks to my Victron Bluetooth solar controller. The Victron can monitor two battery banks, mine is set up to firstly monitor the house bank, with all the battery data Victron offers. Secondary, it monitors the starter battery, but only displays voltage. If you aren’t using your start battery for other devices, I don’t know that you need any more info than the voltage.
Hope that helps,
Don
From: ina-nonsuch-di...@googlegroups.com <ina-nonsuch-di...@googlegroups.com> On Behalf Of David Godfrey
Sent: January 26, 2023 8:04 AM
To: INA Nonsuch Discussion Group <INA-Nonsuch-Di...@googlegroups.com>
Subject: Re: A Battery Question regarding Alternator
Hi Peter,
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On Jan 26, 2023, at 3:44 PM, 'peter farley' via INA Nonsuch Discussion Group <INA-Nonsuch-Di...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
I will have to get you a picture hopefully this weekend..
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On Jan 28, 2023, at 12:58 PM, Mark Powers La Reina 26C Vancouver, B.C. <r...@shaw.ca> wrote:
So Rob,
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Here are the battery pic