wht N36#25 part 2

[Sprio]

Hi there,

As some of you know, work on N36#25 had a few ups and a lot of downs. The paintjob disaster topped it of. And she's not there yet but there's ligth on the end of the tunnel.

After a lot of work removing all the new paint and finishing the precoats for the second time, I painted N36#25 myself. Should have done that the first time. WOW for modern paints.

There are pictures (available) of this process but I guess they're pretty booring. Skipping those and jump straight to the rubrail!

[Sprio]

sorry, i forgot to sign of. here we go: mark H, N36#25, the netherlands, europe

Op vrijdag 26 mei 2023 om 18:29:39 UTC+2 schreef Sprio:

[Bob Gehrman]

Fascinating! What did you use for the new rubrail?

Bob Gehrman

NS36 #52 "Fortunate"

Providence, Rhode Island

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "INA Nonsuch Discussion Group" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to INA-Nonsuch-Discussi...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/INA-Nonsuch-Discussion-Group/0243e839-4734-4d9f-b5f8-cda86a297d5bn%40googlegroups.com.

[JohnS]

Good use of jigs and fixtures, although it looks like you had to do some modifications?? (looks you made a "Mark-2" version!) 

I like jigs and fixtures; taking the time to make them always pays off in the end with a professional looking finish. e.g. my new electrical panels I did a while ago, a simple plastic jig keyed to the LED light and the vertical edge made the application of pre-printed labels fast and professional looking.

Glad to see you are back at it - JohnS NS26C 046 Bath, ON. 

On Fri, May 26, 2023 at 12:35 PM Sprio <ma...@sprio.nl> wrote:

--

[Ken Dakin]

Mark

Do I understand correctly that there were no rub rails on the boat originally, hence, the need for the mounting jigs for accurate drilling thru the rails and hull, vertically and horizontally? I ask because I replaced my rails last summer which required that I drill the rail material to match existing holes in the hull.

Ken Dakin

NS 33 # 7

Sashay

Kingston ON

Ken Dakin

Sent from my iPad

On May 26, 2023, at 12:29 PM, Sprio <ma...@sprio.nl> wrote:



Hi there,

As some of you know, work on N36#25 had a few ups and a lot of downs. The paintjob disaster topped it of. And she's not there yet but there's ligth on the end of the tunnel.

After a lot of work removing all the new paint and finishing the precoats for the second time, I painted N36#25 myself. Should have done that the first time. WOW for modern paints.

There are pictures (available) of this process but I guess they're pretty booring. Skipping those and jump straight to the rubrail!

<IMG-20230526-WA0026.jpg>

<IMG-20230526-WA0027.jpg>

<IMG-20230526-WA0029.jpg>

<IMG-20230526-WA0035.jpg>

<IMG-20230526-WA0034.jpg>

<IMG-20230526-WA0011.jpg>

<IMG-20230526-WA0014.jpg>

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "INA Nonsuch Discussion Group" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to INA-Nonsuch-Discussi...@googlegroups.com.

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/INA-Nonsuch-Discussion-Group/a062646d-1b8b-4b79-9339-394c762c3407n%40googlegroups.com.

<IMG-20230526-WA0034.jpg>

<IMG-20230526-WA0026.jpg>

<IMG-20230526-WA0011.jpg>

<IMG-20230526-WA0035.jpg>

<IMG-20230526-WA0029.jpg>

<IMG-20230526-WA0014.jpg>

<IMG-20230526-WA0027.jpg>

[Bob Gehrman]

Hi Ken - Do you have any pics of your new rub rails?

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/INA-Nonsuch-Discussion-Group/A216A1FA-737A-4454-8D24-62616FCF80D9%40gmail.com.

[Sprio]

Hi Ken, originally there were rubrails on this boat. I didn't remove them, a po removed them. They were leaky and caused serious core problems.

If you want to read all about it, it's on this forum. Here's the link

https://groups.google.com/g/ina-nonsuch-discussion-group/c/hRvm_wEQPNQ/m/j0UbpLq5AgAJ

I didn't use any screws or other fastening materials that need drilling holes. The rubrail is glued!

mark h, n36#25, the netherlands, europe

[Mark Powers La Reina 26C Vancouver, B.C.]

Paint job looks nice. I wonder if you were wishing she was a 22 footer while you were cutting all of the clamps.

Don't forget to put antifouling on the rudder.

Mark Powers

[Sprio]

I'm still considering cutting open the rudder to renew the moist foam inside. That's why it's not painted yet.

I'd love to hear some opinions on the matter, or experiences with moist rudders over time.

My fear is that the "stainless" frame corrodes because the environment inside.

Stainless steel doesn't rust (any further) because of the skin, hide, it forms. This oxidized layer of material protect the metal from oxidizing becuase this layer is air-thight. Just like aluminium oxide. Therefor the process only works when the stainless is in a neutral environment. In an acid or alkali environment the oxidized skin of the metal is affected and not up to the task of sealing off the metal. And so the metal oxidizes further and further.

I've owned an aluminium yacht for many years and in my experience, this process mainly occurs in spaces where (salt)water is trapped.

If someone could assure me that the insides of the rudder is OK, I will just antifoul it and go sailing.

Op zondag 28 mei 2023 om 03:08:32 UTC+2 schreef Mark Powers La Reina 26C Vancouver, B.C.:

[Mark Powers La Reina 26C Vancouver, B.C.]

I can't give you the dry rudder assurance you are looking for.

Some of our members have drilled small holes in the bottom of their rudders to see if water drains out. In your case I don't know if that will work. If water comes out you will know it is wet inside. If no water comes out, you won't know if it is because it never had water in it or because the rudder has been out of the water for so long that the water that was there evaporated.

I did not drill holes in the rudder on La Reina. Each year when I did the annual haul out I could see a small amount of rust where the rudder shaft entered the top of the rudder.  I tapped the rudder and it sounded okay. Surveyors did not find anything amiss. In August of 2020 the rudder came into contact with a log while we were motoring at about 6 knots. The rudder shaft was bent enough that it had to be replaced. When the rudder was cut open it clear there was water in the rudder however the stainless tab (flag?) was not rusted and it was reusable. I will try to attach photos.

Mark Powers

[Sprio]

Mark,

Thank you for the pictures. The steel looks OK indeed.

Drilling holes in the bottom of the rudder didn't show any moisture in my case. Drilling a hole in the area where the steel frame is located did! I drained about 300ml of brownish fluid from there. So I know the rudder is leaky and will fill up with water again. My moisture meter tells me that, eventhough the boat has been out of the water for more than 3 years now, the rudder is still saturated 100%. It will not dry out because the moist has nowhere to go.

I don't suppose a moist rudder will sound any different from a dry rudder as long as the GRP is OK.

It may be a good idea to just coat the rudder in antifouling and use the it as is. It will be eaten by Orkas some day anyway :-)

Mark H

N36#25 (Rollercoaster)

netherlands, europe

Op zaterdag 3 juni 2023 om 18:15:41 UTC+2 schreef Mark Powers La Reina 26C Vancouver, B.C.:

[Bruce Clark]

Yeas ago I had a Niagara 35, also Hinterhoeller of course, that would weep rusty water from around the shaft each winter (in Canada, so freeze/thaw. Drilling holes didn’t seem to accomplish much. I think they used 5200 around the shaft, but over many years this material hardened and cracked. Also, the stainless shaft and glass moulding expand and contract at different rates, so water gets in. I took the rudder off and cut it along the edges with a handsaw so that I had two shells with the hard foam and the shaft and horizontal webs. It was not the same as the photo in this thread. There were four rods of mild (not stainless) steel welded onto the shaft. Water had gotten to these and they were rusting. This was in fresh water, so salt would be worse. I had these removed and replaced with stainless (also will corrode in the absence of oxygen but I figured better than mild steel. I took out all of the places where the foam had failed and cut channels through the good foam. Joined the two shells with layers of fibreglass tape and then poured epoxy through a hole in the top of the rudder to fill and voids and join the original foam to the repair. Faired the rudder and put new 5200 at the shaft/rudder join before reinstalling. One hint: pour the epoxy in very gradually over many minutes. Too much at one time generates very much smoke coming out of the hole, ask me how I know. It sounds complicated but really isn’t, just require common sense and care.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "INA Nonsuch Discussion Group" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to INA-Nonsuch-Discussi...@googlegroups.com.

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/INA-Nonsuch-Discussion-Group/7fbb04c0-5698-4f25-8078-bf85b43a0d0an%40googlegroups.com.