3D Chameleon

[TobyCWood]

https://www.3dchameleon.com

Just ordered one for review and coverage on the podcast. Looks like an awesome alternative to the MMU and Palette!

[Gary Tolley - Grogyan]

Ditto, thought about a number of times when it was first shown off.

But after he did the jousting belt printers, I just impulses bought it. 

Seeing as it is shipping overseas via USPS, goodness only knows if USPS will actually read the country on the shipping label, instead of sending it back and forth across the US 

On Sat, 12 Dec 2020, 10:03 TobyCWood, <andyc...@gmail.com> wrote:

https://www.3dchameleon.com

Just ordered one for review and coverage on the podcast. Looks like an awesome alternative to the MMU and Palette!

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "3D Printing Tips and Tricks" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to 3d-printing-tips--...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/3d-printing-tips--tricks/cb1d58a3-1534-4ad9-884b-fd46ff13e3a8n%40googlegroups.com.

[swb...@gmail.com]

I ordered two during the livestream. Got a shipping notification yesterday and I'm in the US so hopefully they arrive in a few days. plan is to put both of them on a single IDEX machine or start with one of them on my iFactory One that should arrive by next weekend.

[TobyCWood]

So the vids online that show how to install are all the previous version with switches on the left and right sides of the gantry. Version 2 uses button press time to encode which filament spool to switch to and there are no vids on it out at all including nothing on the code in the tool change scripts.

Mine is due on the 23rd.

[Kurt at VR-FX]

Andy - this does look VERY Interesting. Sorry I didn't review the prior link. I did just now - and, Wow - I'd be thrilled if it worked! It claims 4 colors - but, in theory - 1 or more could be a different material. Right? I suspect so...

-K-

--

You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "3D Printing Tips and Tricks" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to 3d-printing-tips--...@googlegroups.com.

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/3d-printing-tips--tricks/159a491f-b3ab-4c7c-acbe-193b739e8d51n%40googlegroups.com.

[Steve Blum]

I reached out to Bill and he gave me the following info. I do have two units (arrived last week) but I was assembling my iFactory One printer all weekend so I have not set up the 3D Chamelons as of yet.

"

We do have some videos on YouTube.  Search for 3DChameleon Mk2.

Start here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GaWiYqWP_s4&

And then PrusaSlicer is here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZxRBXXvShtQ&t=691s

3DChameleon Prusa QuadMini Profile - YouTube In this video I cover using PrusaSlicer on the the Prusa Mini with a 3D Chameleon. I discuss the customizations needed to run it and how it works.Download t... www.youtube.com

3D Chameleon Mk2 Basic Installation - YouTube In this video, I will walk through the basic installation of the 3D Chameleon Mk2 Four Color Extruder. You will see how to install it in either a Direct Dri... www.youtube.com

"

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to a topic in the Google Groups "3D Printing Tips and Tricks" group.
To unsubscribe from this topic, visit https://groups.google.com/d/topic/3d-printing-tips--tricks/Xas_AEzfDBk/unsubscribe.
To unsubscribe from this group and all its topics, send an email to 3d-printing-tips--...@googlegroups.com.

[Kurt at VR-FX]

Andy - did you ever actually receive the unit???

I'm just curious...

-K-

On 12/21/2020 10:00 AM, TobyCWood wrote:

--

You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "3D Printing Tips and Tricks" group.

To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to 3d-printing-tips--...@googlegroups.com.

[TobyCWood]

Yes, but the iFactory had all my attention and desk space. Time to move the iFactory out to the garage and bring in the Ender3 to install the 3D Chameleon.

[Kurt at VR-FX]

Awesome. I look forward VERY Much to see how that turns out. Maybe I could get it for my WanHao D6. Assuming you give it high kudos...

-K

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/3d-printing-tips--tricks/212838dd-afe6-4046-a013-5b4d766aceben%40googlegroups.com.

[Daniel Rosen]

YAY! Thanks so much. You guys are awesome!

[TobyCWood]

The iFactory is now on a table in the garage and the table in my office has my Ender 3 and the 3DChameleon kit on it. Starting it today. Rewatching the vids and going over the parts. One thing worth mentioning here is Bill has already sent out replacement parts for the controller block. All of the parts he sent that were 3D printed are stunning. Perfection. Rare in the hobby 3DP world.

[Kurt at VR-FX]

Wow - great - glad to hear you're moving forwards with this. As for Bill - am thrilled to hear what you said about him. He was the Belt printer guy at MRRF 2018 - and Dan worked with him (re: SW) - Right?

-K-

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/3d-printing-tips--tricks/10420f88-a49a-4c61-b442-e83532d9a3e4n%40googlegroups.com.

[TobyCWood]

Assembled, but tons of issues. All the issues are directly due to the use of low tolerance 3D Printed parts. First the cam bearing part was too large for the bearing. I printed one myself and it fit fine. Next the two halves of the control block would not move. Swapped those out but now it won't work unless all the bolts are way too loose for this to work correctly. I'll probably have to insert washers. 

Too bad. Not lookin too good.

On Friday, December 11, 2020 at 1:03:36 PM UTC-8 TobyCWood wrote:

[Kurt at VR-FX]

SHIT - pardon my French - but, WOW - I was hoping this would be a GREAT solution for mulit-materials or MultiColor printing!!!

Bummer indeed...

Next option???

I know there's the TC - but, its a BIG Deal - not simple - not an Addon.

Oh well...

--

You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "3D Printing Tips and Tricks" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to 3d-printing-tips--...@googlegroups.com.

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/3d-printing-tips--tricks/184e1e6a-0868-4ec8-8048-a4cd52089420n%40googlegroups.com.

[Daniel Rosen]

WOW! Thanks a lot for doing this to you both. I guess this is not a surprise. No wonder there is not other information except for the one the 3D chameleon developer posted. I was able to find only a horrible 3d printed fish on reddit. https://www.reddit.com/r/ender5plus/comments/fpe71d/3d_chameleon/

[Kurt at VR-FX]

OMG - now its time to Find the REAL Nemo!!!

On 2/17/2021 5:46 AM, Daniel Rosen wrote:

WOW! Thanks a lot for doing this to you both. I guess this is not a surprise. No wonder there is not other information except for the one the 3D chameleon developer posted. I was able to find only a horrible 3d printed fish on reddit. https://www.reddit.com/r/ender5plus/comments/fpe71d/3d_chameleon/ --

You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "3D Printing Tips and Tricks" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to 3d-printing-tips--...@googlegroups.com.

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/3d-printing-tips--tricks/297752E1-E8C5-4B87-A419-508C3CCE9CD5%40gmail.com.

Too good to be true.

You received this message because you are subscribed to a topic in the Google Groups "3D Printing Tips and Tricks" group.
To unsubscribe from this topic, visit https://groups.google.com/d/topic/3d-printing-tips--tricks/Xas_AEzfDBk/unsubscribe.
To unsubscribe from this group and all its topics, send an email to 3d-printing-tips--...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/3d-printing-tips--tricks/464ee60e-f003-4cb2-65c3-0dfe1ec8c7b2%40optonline.net.

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "3D Printing Tips and Tricks" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to 3d-printing-tips--...@googlegroups.com.

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/3d-printing-tips--tricks/297752E1-E8C5-4B87-A419-508C3CCE9CD5%40gmail.com.

[TobyCWood]

I am far from finished.

[markni...@gmail.com]

Andy,

Please pass your feed back on to Bill Steele.

He is far from an idiot, and will work to address the issues.

It sounded like he was under the gun to get an unexpectedly high volume of orders our fast.

This almost always causes problems.

[TobyCWood]

Yes, I've been in constant contact with him. He's juggling a number of production issues.

Ideally, I would simply print the parts myself, however two of the parts have small metal spring inclusions.

[TobyCWood]

So I went back to the original parts that came with the kit and with my own printed cam part and it all fit back together real clean and tests perfectly off the printer. Next to install on my Ender 3...

! Whoops! 

I wasn't paying attention!

The Ender 3 feeders do not have PTFE tube couplers on the idler arms and the 3D Chameleon MKII doesn't seem to have the same extruder feeder capability as the MKI had.

DOH!

Contacting Bill again!

Actually... now that I'm really focused on this I realized that even if it did have a coupler on the idler this would never work! Why? Because feeding filament into the Ender3 feeder takes some patience and time and it can only be done manually. No way would the filament make it through on it's own. The filament needs to feed through two couplings! That'll never work!

So now I'm thinking that the Hemera is going on to this Ender3.

[TobyCWood]

OK... Hemera goe on to Ender 3. For that saga it has to be a different thread. I'll come back here once thats accomplished.

[Daniel Rosen]

OMG. I am so sorry I put you in such predicament! Never expected it was so hard. 

You are the best. 

Dan

Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 20, 2021, at 2:57 PM, TobyCWood <andyc...@gmail.com> wrote:

OK... Hemera goe on to Ender 3. For that saga it has to be a different thread. I'll come back here once thats accomplished.

--

You received this message because you are subscribed to a topic in the Google Groups "3D Printing Tips and Tricks" group.
To unsubscribe from this topic, visit https://groups.google.com/d/topic/3d-printing-tips--tricks/Xas_AEzfDBk/unsubscribe.
To unsubscribe from this group and all its topics, send an email to 3d-printing-tips--...@googlegroups.com.

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/3d-printing-tips--tricks/4bceb84e-bab3-47ca-8752-e587868c54b8n%40googlegroups.com.

[TobyCWood]

Ok... Ender 3 has Hemera. 3D Chameleon mounts in seconds. Next to look at the slicer profiles.

WHAT!?!? The only Mk2 profile is for Prusaslicer???

[Daniel Rosen]

What? Now I need to buy a Hemera too? WOW!

Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 27, 2021, at 1:51 PM, TobyCWood <andyc...@gmail.com> wrote:

Ok... Ender 3 has Hemera. 3D Chameleon mounts in seconds. Next to look at the slicer profiles.

--

You received this message because you are subscribed to a topic in the Google Groups "3D Printing Tips and Tricks" group.
To unsubscribe from this topic, visit https://groups.google.com/d/topic/3d-printing-tips--tricks/Xas_AEzfDBk/unsubscribe.
To unsubscribe from this group and all its topics, send an email to 3d-printing-tips--...@googlegroups.com.

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/3d-printing-tips--tricks/e7ca11b3-2d14-42fe-869d-d1c2d96be9a2n%40googlegroups.com.

[Gary Tolley - Grogyan]

3D Chameleon is printer and extruder agnostic.

You do not have to have an E3D Hemera 

You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "3D Printing Tips and Tricks" group.

To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to 3d-printing-tips--...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/3d-printing-tips--tricks/3ACB1DBB-8FB2-412F-8493-ACCC00D808B7%40gmail.com.

[TobyCWood]

No. I do not recommend a Hemera. There are other lighter, less expensive and just as functional solutions if you are looking at the 3D Chameleon. For example one can replace the OEM feeder to the hotbed with a BMG or a BMG clone and keep the Bowden to the OEM hotend which on mine worked perfectly fine (for PLA)..

[TobyCWood]

I was premature on this post. I'd forgotten to mount the 3D Chameleon's switch.

I'd hoped to mount it forward of the Y axis so that the bed could be moved to it, but that used way too much of the Y axis with the mounts available. I would have had to design a new mount from scratch to get all the Y axis back. Nuts to that. I've had to  up to HERE! with rabbit holes on this thing!

So instead I looked at mounting it on the right end of the X axis. DOH!!! The cable chain mount I used (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4032011) won't let me do that!

OK... so I MOD the dang thing! and it's fine now... https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4779017

[Daniel Rosen]

That is what I read. I adapts to any printer. I did not see a good pic of the 4 color option. I believe it comes with 4 individual extruders?

[TobyCWood]

The Mk1 was 2 or 4 materials. The Mk2 only comes as 4. It's a single extruder. The 4 materials flow into a 4 way combining connector thats shaped like a double Y. On a tool/material change the Chameleon basically unloads and loads filament automatically. Prusa's MMU works the same basic way.

I am finding that while it can go on any 3D Printer to get it to work with any 3D Printer is a challenge. While Bill designed it and demos it on Mendel machines (bed slingers like the Prusa) in my opinion it will work WAY better on a CoreXY/Cartesian machine... and even better if it uses a Duet controller since one could have macros for all the 3DChameleons functions. You cannot do that with Marlin.

So I have mine all mounted on my Ender3. I have the Toolchange script all modified and inserted into Simplify3D. I'm almost all ready for my first print. Next step, I go to verify that the 3DChameleon operates correctly and .... nope! On one of the 4 filament positions the extruder loading stepper runs backwards! As far as I can see it's not due to the HW. To me it looks like something in the Chameleon's FW. If so, there's a work around I can do in the Toolchange script, but first I want Bill to see it.

IF I can get this to work as reliably as my Toolchanger, then I WILL be supporting this thing here, in it's own GG and on the podcast. Support as in mounting options, script mods, and most of all... Wipe and purge options to get away from purge towers.

[TobyCWood]

On the verge of giving up. Way too many things about the gcode which is dependent on numerous aspects of the machine. Only way I can see making it work is to test each chunk of gcode in the Toolchange script to ensure it works with my setup. Things like the extrude rate, the retract and extrude lengths, etc... IF it were sold for a specific machine with a specific setup I can see it working otherwise its REAL tough to get it to work on just any machine. Too bad.

[gro...@gmail.com]

Don't give up

[gro...@gmail.com]

Just waiting to hear your frustration and review of it on the podcast this week, or next

[TobyCWood]

I probably won't give up. Bill thinks the problems are actually due to Simplify3D and their lack of documentation of their variable names.

[TobyCWood]

See if you can wrap your head around this.

On a tool change (filament switch) first the 3DChameleon has to switch to release the filament at it's loader, then the extruder feeder has to retract the right amount and stop. Then the 3DChameleon runloads the filament back to it's parking place. OK...

But...

Next the 3D Chameleon turns on the extruder's feeder to load for a predetermined period of time, while the 3DChameleon switches to the new tool again and again till it gets to it, then it loads the filament down into the extruder, which is still running, and grabs it. So for a few moments the filament is driven by both the 3DChameleon and the extruder. Then they both stop and the 3DChameleon must switch to release the loader. Then the print continues.

Right
Think about how the **** one figures out the correct timing and filament loading lengths?!

[Daniel Rosen]

Holy asterisks!!! I cannot picture what you are saying. It sounds only you or NASA engineer can do. Not just a mere mortal like me. 

Sent from my 3D printed iPhone

On Mar 4, 2021, at 12:39 PM, TobyCWood <andyc...@gmail.com> wrote:

See if you can wrap your head around this.

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/3d-printing-tips--tricks/e2dca5b6-74d1-423d-b547-4b0bd2329186n%40googlegroups.com.

[William Steele]

Don't try too hard... the gcode is already done that does most of that work... don't try to do it again! :-)  The ONLY two things that are required for you to configure it is a) where the button is located (less 3mm on the mounted axis), and b) to determine the distance between the extruder (drive gears) and the nozzle.  Those values are plugged into the gcode to set the initial reference point of the button presses... all subsequent presses are 3mm offsets from that location.  So for example, if your button is on the X axis at 225, then you'd plug in X222 and it'll move the last 3mm to engage the button.  (Same for if it's on the Y... you only need to set the location once.)  The length of the extruder/hotend gap is entered twice... once for the loading and once for the unloading.  All the other sample distances you talk about are defaulted to values that will work with nearly 100% of the machines out there as long as the PTFE tubes haven't been cut to less than about 12".  It will automatically retract 10 seconds to pull the filament out of the extruder, and likewise, will load 10.5 seconds into the extruder... with the last .5 being the part where it starts the extruder motor at the same time and same speed.  You don't have to calculate any of that... it's already done for you, including all the timing.

Check out the latest code on the Basic Installation Video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AgWK9Uz4w_w   I have both PrusaSlicer and Cura versions linked in the description of it.  

Also, I posted a new video with Cura on it and show you those values that need to be adjusted here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Myr61uOCzVk

Bill

[TobyCWood]

So... I open the downloaded file "3DChameleon)_Mk2_...." file (using Cura v4.8) as a project. Right away I see there is no "Reality Ender 3 with 3DChameleon".

I do have a number of Ender 3's but none of them have the gcode scripts you refer to in the vid.

[TobyCWood]

OK... I make sure it saves the printer profile as new and it does get the printer name... but again... no gcode scripts come over.

[TobyCWood]

Oh yeah the @(*&!)_ bug!  

[TobyCWood]

OK... same issues I had with S3D... same with Prusaslicer. Editing long scripts of gcode in the small box does not work!!

I paste then get lost!

[William Steele]

I typically edit them in Notepad++... then just paste them in.  That allows you to save them externally as well.

Bill

[TobyCWood]

and it's made WAY worse by having comments way off to the right!

Feels like I'm banging my head against a wall!

[William Steele]

Do you have a suggestion???  It needs comments to tell users where to edit.  They're indicated by very bold "<----------" lines.  In notepad or notepad++ they're just after the text.  In PrusaSlicer, the windows goes all the way across the screen and in Cura it's half way, if you increase the size of their window.

[William Steele]

Here's a quick video showing it installed on the Ender 5 with special attention paid to the two parameters you need to determine.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XNDYXfJqP4E

[TobyCWood]

1. Cura on the Mac does not allow the dialog to be enlarged 

2. New users are watching a vid and as such are trying to follow along 

3. After a paste the view lurches to the right and the user cannot see the change. Scrolling to the left is not smooth. It jerks around and the user quickly gets lost.

So here's a suggestion, keep all text in a smaller column so it all fits and does not go off to the right. As such, split the comments into separate lines. When the user does a change or paste the view stays the same.

[William Steele]

How about an automatic tool change gcode generator instead. ;-)  Let me know what you think.

https://www.3dchameleon.com/gcodegenerator

Here's a video of the beta (didn't cover Cura at the time of the video, but it does now support it.)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7B8C5WI2LSU

Bill

[TobyCWood]

Wow!

Sorry, I got hit with a BIG project from a new client who I need to overdeliver to.

[Daniel Rosen]

I just put my order for the 4 Color Changer Preassembled Mk2.

[Daniel Rosen]

Hi. I thought I would like to share my experience with the 3DChameleon so far. As a disclaimer I want to say that I am not an professional reviewer and not an engineer either. I am a regular guy that learned to love 3D printers as a hobby. My comments here are with the best intentions and as constructive criticism. 

Let me start by saying: Kudos to Mr Bill Steele for such a great product, his commitment and passion!

The purchasing and delivery process was flawless. Purchased on a Sunday and I received my kit 4 days after purchase. The nicely packaged system came fully assembled with the motors, electronic, tubes and Y adapter already assembled

The box has additional tubes, fittings, straps screws and nuts 

Is Saturday and I woke up early to install the 3DChameleon, I fired up my laptop and watched the instructions video. Most of it does not apply since my kit was preassembled. However, it was fun  and important to watch to learn how the system works and learn how to troubleshoot,

First I screwed the motor bracket in place. Following I find right place to put the switch. The instructions say the “X axis” but in my CR10s printer that would be the “Y axis”. Not sure this is the right place for it yet. It seems is taking some space off the “Y axis”. I may change it to the X axis like Andy did but I dont know yet.

Then I put the electronic box on the side 

So this is how my kit looks like thus far (I need to do some serious cable management here :) )

With the hardware in place I moved to the software portion of the installation. First, I measured the distance between the extruder and the hot end using a piece of filament. In my case was quite long. About 520mm. I modified the extruder start and end g-codes. Deleted and edited the lines as instructed on the video.

Then I positing the switch. The instruction video shows it on the X axis the position As I mentioned mine corresponds the the Y axis on my CR10s. It really doesn’t matter because you adjust the exact location on the G-code. 

First, I autohome my printer and moved the Y axis using the control box knob until the build plated touches the sensor. Took note of those coordinates and entered the values on the G-code. Mine was at X=155 (the center of the plate) and Y=280

Now was time to connect the Y adapter to the extruder. This is when I hit my first bump on the road. There is not space between the inlet hole and the Z axis rod. Also, I dont know how to connect the adapter to the inlet and there is a copper ring there that I am not sure whether to remove or what.

After banging my head I contacted 3Dchameleon support. I got a reply within MINUTES!!! AND ON A SATURDAY!!! I was instructed to print the following adapter from TV. There are 2 on the TV website (not sure why?). I printed both

I was a little hesitant to dismantle and experiment with my CR10s. I am one of those guys that always has leftover parts when assembling the Ikea furniture, So I sacrificed my monoprint mini instead. The extruders are similar (minus the inlet copper ring) and easier to access on the monoprint. 

I had to stop now to take my kids to their baseball game

Is Sunday now. Grabbed a cup of coffee and I removed the extruder on the monoprint and placed the adapter I printed from TV

I have to say that it kind of worked. However, the extruder gear was buried inside and the original screws are too short. Tried using some screws that came with the kit but those are too long.

I am stuck again.. Is time to email Bill. HE REPLIED…ON A SUNDAY…WITHIN MINUTES!!!. 

So, I was able to pull up the gear by unscrewing the Allen screw holding it as he recommended. (why I didn’t think of that!). But still need to find the appropriate screws to mount the extruder. Alternatively, I could modify the adapter to eliminate the plate under the extruder and attached to other screws. There other option Bill recommended is to replace with at BMG clone extruder (https://www.amazon.com/Extruder-Creality-Anycubic-Artillery-Sidewinder/dp/B089F2XR2C). I ordered it for only $12. I think this will be the best solution.

In conclusion, this is still a work in progress. There are a few things that need to be polished from the seller side particularly instruction material. The product itself is of very good quality and I believe it will work. However,  as it is now installation does not take 30 minutes as mentioned somewhere on the website.

I want to reiterate my appreciation to Andy and Whitney for their commitment to the show and trying this product as well. Also, to Bill for his commitment and passion creating a fun and useful product. Stay tuned for part 2!

Dan

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/3d-printing-tips--tricks/ce1520fa-87ba-4e02-8c06-f1c51c906752n%40googlegroups.com.

[William Steele]

Hi Dan,

On your CR-10, you can simply rotate the extruder by 90 degrees... then the 3D Chameleon can feed in the back and the PTFE to the hot end will come out the front.   As for the two different adapters... there are actually a few more... but Creality uses two different extruder mount designs, and on one there is a screw (for the Z rod nut) that is in the way... so there are two different designs to accommodate that.  There are also others for extruders like the SeeMeCNC EZRStruder, for example, which is similar, but has other features in the way.

Don't forget, the BMG style clones might need to have their inner filament path widened... we've had to do it to a few of the transparent ones... but not all... it's factory dependent... but hard to tell "which" factory made them.  All you need is a 2mm diameter drill to open it up.

Bill

[William Steele]

Oh, I also might add we have our automatic GCode Generator available on our website where you can simply enter your parameters for your printer and it'll generate the tool change gcode necessary for your printer.

https://www.3dchameleon.com/gcodegenerator.

Bill

[Daniel Rosen]

Thanks Bill!

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/3d-printing-tips--tricks/dae3b454-f1d5-49b9-8343-8e1413b58ac2n%40googlegroups.com.

[markni...@gmail.com]

Wow! Now that is great customer service!

[TobyCWood]

Does the BMG have the same diameter drive gears as the OEM? Original Bondtech's did not and as such you have to change the esteps and check your steps per mm when upgrading from the OEM sprung idler feeder. If so you will need to make that change in the Marlin source assuming you still have the OEM Creality Controller board.

[Edward Simpson]

I've actually done the original to Bondtech gears upgrade, you can change the firmware settings by sending the gcode below over a USB link if EEPROM is enabled.

For Bondtech with BMG gearing:

M92 E452; Steps per mm for the offical BMG from Bond-Tech's setup guide

M500; Save settings to EEPROM
For stock Extruder:

M92 E93; Found this by digging into the configuration section on my LCD menu

M500; Save settings to EEPROM

Hope that helps with the upgrade and looking forward to seeing some colourful prints :)

[Daniel Rosen]

HI Edward. I was actually looking online how to do that. I know I have to adjust the E steps but still unclear

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/3d-printing-tips--tricks/6983b85e-fc59-4e76-a12c-73d665d17841n%40googlegroups.com.

[Edward Simpson]

Depending on if you've got the stock firmware or have reflashed with an updated version of Marlin there are a couple ways to get the E-steps set correctly.

First option is to insert the 452 in the E value in the Marlin config file, then compile and upload the new firmware version to the printer board.

Second option is to load the E value via the serial interface by plugging in a USB cable and using Pronterface from your computer, it'd just be copy and paste the Gcode I posted earlier one line at a time for that option, but that does require that the EEPROM commands are enabled in the firmware, I can't remember if Creality has them on by default or not.

Third option/hacky way to do it would be to put the M92 E452 command in the print-start gcode in whatever slicer you are using, this does have the issue that any gcode post-processer might delete the line and make the printer under extrude by an insane degree.

Personally I reflashed my board with an updated Marlin a long time ago and have always had a habit of enabling EEPROM, so I usually use the second option when changing extruder drives.

[William Steele]

I wonder if it happens to just be your version of the Hemera.  I just installed mine, (an original Hermes) and it worked flawlessly.  Was able to load and unload after a minor change to the tuning.

I basically inserted a:

M92 E409

M203 E20000 ; Set maximum speeds (mm/min)

M201 E6000 ; Set accelerations (mm/s^2)

block of code at the start of the gcode and it worked just like all the other Bondtech/E3D style machines I have.  Also, it's VERY powerful. 

Still, way too expensive for what it is... but I can confirm with my auto generated gcode and the above tweaks, it works perfectly.

Bill

On Sunday, February 28, 2021 at 1:05:21 PM UTC-5 TobyCWood wrote:

No. I do not recommend a Hemera. There are other lighter, less expensive and just as functional solutions if you are looking at the 3D Chameleon. For example one can replace the OEM feeder to the hotbed with a BMG or a BMG clone and keep the Bowden to the OEM hotend which on mine worked perfectly fine (for PLA)..

[Daniel Rosen]

Part 1b..another bump
   I modified a TV model to adapt the 3DChameleon Y tube to my Monoprice select mini extruder. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4574927

However, the filament will not progress unless I move the extruder clamp. I have the same problem with the reality CR10s. Still waiting for the BMGs that arrive tomorrow.

 

[Daniel Rosen]

I think I have to reposition the extruder to the top of the frame to make room for the Y adapter. I need to print a T-slot mount for the creality extruder. Has anyone seen such a thing on Thingiverse or elsewhere?

Thanks

[Daniel Rosen]

I wanted to give an update about my experience with the 3DChameleon. It is a really fun project. Bill is amazing at replying and giving guidance to troubleshoot not only the 3DChameleon but several other aspects of my printer. In short, I had to upgrade to a BMG extruder ($15 on amazon). Also, followed Bill's video on how to simply modify tise BMG extruder. With just this upgrade my CR10s prints faster and nicer. After several tries I found my problem was that the original PTFE tubes in the Chameleon were extremely long. So I cut them extremely short (about 10cm). There was also a little bug in the code generator on the website that was retracting instead of feeding the filament into the extruder. Bill fixed it immendiately. So after cutting the tubes short and a little fix it the code I did my first multicolor print!!! Really, really, really cool. THANKS BILL!!!

3D Chameleon multicolor print video

[William Steele]

I know you're using Cura... but PrusaSlicer is really a lot better at handling the stringing between parts and the purge.  (They actually do proper retractions.)  For some reason, I find it extremely difficult to eliminate them with Simplify or Cura... but they're non-existent with PrusaSlicer.  Have you seen Kiri:Moto?  I've been playing with it as well.  I don't see any mechanism for purging, but their control over the code is pretty good... it's what I'm using for the CR-30 and a purge bucket.  So far, I like what I see.

Great job!

Bill

[TobyCWood]

I assume you've looked at the gcode differences for retraction? How does Prusaslicer and KiriMoto do it different from S3D and Cura?

[TobyCWood]

Also... Kiri Moto looks awesome. Too bad I can't get it to work on my MacPro correctly! Worked great then all of a sudden the view gets stuck and nothing I do unsticks it. Even when I quit and reload. 

On Sunday, April 11, 2021 at 12:11:35 PM UTC-7 wjst...@hotmail.com wrote:

[TobyCWood]

Wait a sec.

I do not understand. What does it matter what slicer one is using when the gcode for a tool change (which includes the tip forging) is written by you and then inserted verbatim when the object is sliced.

On Sunday, April 11, 2021 at 12:11:35 PM UTC-7 wjst...@hotmail.com wrote:

[William Steele]

These are functions that are outside the customizable tool change gcode.  They run different code before and after the tool change gcode and have totally different processes for the purge process.

Some of them are somewhat controllable, like PrusaSlicer, whereas others have no access to the settings that drive them, like Simplify3D.

Bill

[TobyCWood]

For Simplify3D:

So I assume the "Tool Change Retraction" box in the "Other" tab is not the control you are talking about? I found I had to tweak the "Restart Distance" to optimize after my purge wipes for the TC.
"Start Distance" before, "Restart Distance" After

[William Steele]

No... that has no control over the "Purge To Part" after the change... only from the "Part to Purge" path.   They also do not do any sort of retraction before or after executing the Tool Change GCode itself... only before their first move away from the part.  They also totally miss the Ooze Shield To Part or Vise Versa.

Bill