playing with PP

[david merten]

1st the rant: Today's appliances are made so cheap yet cost so much!

Ok I feel a little better. My wife's stove handles are breaking down, they get a crack in the stem and the metal insert won't hold anymore.

I was going to make a complex part with a metal inset to fix the problem. but instead I made some parts out of pla that just press fit on the

shafts. 2 of the 4 handles I replaced held up over a year now. The other 2 are breaking down and need replacing. Oh and did I say the replacement

parts are $85 per knob plus shipping and tax. 

I have some PP I have been wanting to play with, and while the other handles work good they are butt ugly and I can do better.

First impressions of PP, I love it yet I hate it. I love: no smell printing, food safe, light weight, super strong, and super layer adhesion.

I hate: This stuff does NOT stick to anything. If you know anything that works please tell me. It does stick to itself, So I am using PP tape.

I bought the 6 inch stuff and have gone through several feet trying to get it flat on a plate without bubbles. No luck so far. Any ideas???

So I print with some bubbles for now. 60C heatbed the pert warps a lot but stays on bed. 70C bed part did much better, but still warped off the bed.

85C bed and the tape glue softened up and part came loose. The parts don't look as good as I would like either. I have the parts I need for now

so I will experiment more later. I have more filament types I want to play with like my PEBA from the Kickstarter that arrived the other day!

                 David

P.S. Even the spaghetti sticks together better than any filament I have ever had the pleasure of "cooking' lol.

 

[david merten]

And the Spageti shot.......

No actual vegetables were harmed during these printer mistakes..... 

[Kurt The 3D Printer GUY!!]

One of the last projects I worked on at Essentium was producing a test part for a potential customer -  for them to evaluate buying an HSE machine - and it was printing a part in PP. I just reached out to my buddy - who I was working on that project with. He confirmed it was indeed PP. But, the problems we had printing the part were exasperated by need to print the part solid. 

Also, to help get it to work properly and not warp - we slowed down the print speed and we used a print shield. I hope that makes sense. 

Also, if you continue to have problems with the parts warping up - you might try the VisionMiner Nano - a bed adhesive - some folks swear by it - including one person in this forum! 

-K

[Bryan Eckert]

Kurt I have a bottle of that VisionMiner and have never used it!

Personally I use Dimafix, which only "grips" above 50C I believe. Can get it as both Aquanet hairspray style and liquid pen. I use the liquid pen.

Under 50C it releases. I can hear the prints being released as the plate cools. I also only apply it once about every other week, so one pen lasts a pretty long time.  

Maybe when it's time to reapply I'll wash the plate and try the VisionMiner. 

BTW I just bought some PP for cheap on Amazon:

https://a.co/d/hPJm3p1

David, can I get that file? I'll see how it does on my H2C. Either an STL or Plasticity file since I see you use that.

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[Kurt The 3D Printer GUY!!]

VERY Interesting feedback Bryan. Am surprised you bought the Nano and didn't use it - as it is kinda Pricey. 

What you speak of - plate cool down and hearing the crack noises as part releases - very much the same when I would use AQ!

Dang David - I forgot to ask - What printer and do you have a heated Chamber? I suspect so - as you would not be trying to print PP without it. 

-K

[Jody Harris]

I have some Vision Miner Nano Polymer adhesive. I use it on my glass bed delta. I've found that it doesn't do as much on a textured build plate, though. (I think it tends to come off on the print rather than staying on the build plate, so I have to reapply after only a few prints - Aqua Net last much longer.)

Out of curiosity, I went to the VM NPA page:

https://visionminer.com/products/nano-polymer-adhesive

"TL:DR; it basically works with everything. PP doesn't really stick to anything, though."

I know that Prusa makes a plate for PP.:

https://www.prusa3d.com/product/pp-powder-coated-print-sheet/

-j

Think carefully

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[david merten]

I have several 3d printers, but unfortunately none of them have a heated enclosure. That is definitely on my list.

Here is the knob for anyone that wants to play with it. Sending as a step file for easier modding.

I was looking at pp sheets to try, but like the suggestion of glue. Will try that next. 

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[Kurt The 3D Printer GUY!!]

Jody - thanks for your feedback - I kinda KNEW you would pop-up your head when I kinda Hinted at you. 

Bummer the Nano doesn't really help for PP. 

Yeah - David - PP REALLY Needs a Heated Chamber. Even with it - when at Essentium - we struggle a bit. But, as I mentioned before - part of the struggle was cause we were printing SOLID Infill!!!

-K

[Bryan Eckert]

I have PP being delivered tonight, I will give it a try!

[Kurt The 3D Printer GUY!!]

All I can say is...

GO FOR IT!!!!

-K

[Bryan Eckert]

What in the.... 😂😂😂

Second attempt. First attempt was without the sheet. Okay, when I get back later today I'm sticking this in the X1C on a garolite plate and seeing how that works out. The garolite grips everything I've tossed at it so far.

I do have some ideas for it though, using it as a joint material in PLA parts since it "works" in the AMS and is similar in print temps. 

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[david merten]

That makes my part look good...lol

I was thinking about getting some garolite to try, I have heard great things about it. Instead I ordered magigoo glue, they make one just for pp. It should be here Sunday.  So we can compare what's better.

               David

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[Bryan Eckert]

I'm also going to try it with the Nano and see how that works. The Dimafix printed one layer then came right off.

It probably would've worked if I had taped the PE sheet down. As soon as the bed heated it got wrinkles.

[Kurt The 3D Printer GUY!!]

I gotta say - Bryan - that is a TOTALLY EPIC Print fail pic. I mean, yeah - I've seen MUCH Worse fails - but, this one is just kinda funny!

-K

[Bryan Eckert]

SO I figured out by watching that the stupid AUX fan these Bambus have caused it to curl IMMEDIATELY. 

Turned that off and got 3 layers on my garolite bed (from my X1C I stuck in the H2C) then it curled. This model curls badly at the little indent. 

Chamber heated to 42C - it softens at 50C reading data sheet so I didn't want to go higher and clog. Bed was set to 90C.

This is oddly fun, and now I'm determined to beat this filament. 

Up next, VisionMiner Nano!!

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[Bryan Eckert]

So the VisionMiner doesn't work at all. I have a bottle of Magigoo PP on the way. 

In the meantime I created a test model and imbedded the PP into PLA as a flexi joint. It worked! Had to turn off fans.

[david merten]

That's a really interesting idea. Is the pp "captured" in the pla. Was there any bonding of the two materials? 

My glue will be in Sunday,  will you beat that?

I tried 3 inch pp tape, but it pulled up fast. The 6 inch tape works much better, intill you get it too hot. It make a mess to clean up. I wonder if a fixture to stretch the tape tight would help put it on without bubbles?

                    David

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[Bryan Eckert]

I just did this in slicer with primitives. 

The PP doesn't stick at all to the PLA, so to do it proper I'd have to model it so it gets locked in and can't pull out. But it doesn't seem like it's pulling out.

I'm thinking the PP could also be like a bushing for a ball joint. 

My glue won't be here until Tuesday. 

[Kurt The 3D Printer GUY!!]

I am SO SORRY to hear that VisionMiner Failed you! 

I should go complain to Rob Personally!!!!

Bummer indeed...

-K

[david merten]

Well another disappointment. tried the magigoo PP on pei bed. NO GO! I tried it thin, I tried it thick, applied Cold, applied hot.

Filament is also in a Sunlu dryer, so no variable there. My big hope is it works on the garolite, which I don't have any.

my next attempt will be a light layer of glue, PP tape, then another layer of glue.should be an improvement over just the tape.

          David 

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[Bryan Eckert]

I actually got it to (somewhat) stick to the PEI plate... Using liquid electrical tape of all things. 

Unfortunately, my bottle was old and drying out so it did lift up a little.  If it was a fresh bottle it probably would've worked great. Don't know if the liquid tape will come off the bed 😂

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[david merten]

Winner winner chicken dinner! That looks good,can I see a pic of the front.

     David

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[Bryan Eckert]

Trust me it looks terrible. The top isn't flat, it stayed stuck but curled.

[Kurt The 3D Printer GUY!!]

Bryan - can you do me a BIG Favor - and try this...

Using the Nano - but, Differently. I know that previously you probably coated a Cold build plate. 

With Difficult materials - VM gave me a trick I used. You heat the build plate - get it really hot - then, using a brush - you wipe across the plate whilst dripping on the Nano - and you will be bubbling it up and cooking it. But, smear it quickly as it's cooking it. 

That's the trick for tough materials!

And - I gotta say - 42C for chamber I think is WAY Too Low!!!

I will continue to monitor this thread - as I would Love to see you BOTH - U & David - finally have some good success!

-Kurt

[Bryan Eckert]

Kurt according to the data sheet on the roll I have the softening point is similar to PLA, which is why I kept it at 42, because going much higher would make it clog.

But other sources I'm seeing is the softening point is 100C. I'll try a print with the chamber a lot higher, worst case scenario is it clogs. 

Regardless, for embedding in PLA Id have to keep it at 42c. 

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[Kurt The 3D Printer GUY!!]

Yeah - you mix with PLA - you're kinda Screwed. 

If I were you - I dig a little deeper into PP - maybe use CoPilot to dig for you - to confirm Temps. Yeah - seems 50C is too low for softening point - 100C seems more right. But, will admit - I honestly have VERY Little experience with PP! Just one single project - and it was a WHILE ago...

-K

[david merten]

Wow that is bad. Hey does that little bulge go all the way around the part. My first print did that also. It really weird like the bottom curls all at the same time, and that causes a squish that forces the material out. It was fairly consistent. I looked at the slicer to to make sure I didn't make a mistake. Also since I am working with clear filament, I could see a color change on the bulge section.

It was more translucent  that the rest of the side.

            David

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[david merten]

I actually have a usable part that is on the stove right now. It doesn't look as good as I hope, but wife is just happy to have a working knob. And no heated chamber was used.

The top is curved from warping, but the ugliest part is the pits from bubbles in the tape. 6 inch wide tape is a bitch to try n lay flat without getting bubbles in it.

 I need to make some kind of tape stretcher, to help with the application. Especially as it looks this might be thway I have to print this stuff. The 3 inch wide tape just doesn't have enough holding power.

             David

[Bryan Eckert]

No, part of the knob stayed on the bed, that side didn't have the bulge.

[Kurt The 3D Printer GUY!!]

You need a Wide Spackle Spatula type unit - that would do the trick. 

You could print one - but, a cheaper and more reliable unit can be gotten at a paint or hardware store. You want it to have a LITTLE Flexibility to the unit. 

-K

[Bryan Eckert]

Actually looking at it again, I think that bulge is akin to the "benchy hull line"

[Bryan Eckert]

So I got a great print! 

15mm brim, 100C bed chamber still at 41C, due to forgetting to allow higher temp in the filament profile. Magigoo PP on the textured PEI. Stayed pretty flat.

I think the "bulge" is definitely like the benchy hull line.

On Tue, Jan 6, 2026 at 11:45 AM Brisco Humes <brisco...@gmail.com> wrote:

Mornin' Y'all!

I wanted to give my limited input on PP.  We have successfully printed it a few times on our Epsilon W27(resurrected for now), though we almost always get warping or it breaks free, the best thing we have done is using a large brim with the Magigoo PP.  I will say if you're not 100% stuck on plain PP, we have had amazing luck printing Prusament PP-CF on our MK4S with the PP PEI sheet that Prusa sells.  Our prints have held tolerance with minimal failures and have survived our environment pretty well, though the parts do end up having an external texture to them.

Best regards,

Brisco

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[markni...@gmail.com]

Wow! Real nice print, with a real tough to print material.