Biqu has dropped an interesting product, a stand alone chamber heater for enclosed printers.

[Sean]

This came up in one of my feeds. Thought it a novel idea to overcome heatsoak issues. It even offers a secondary function to turn your enclosed printer into a filament dryer. 

https://biqu.equipment/products/biqu-panda-breath-smart-air-filtration-and-heating-system-with-precise-temperature-regulation?

[markni...@gmail.com]

Very cool item. Should prove useful for those with enclosed printers, that want to print ASA, ABS, certain nylons, and other exotic high temp filaments.

[Bryan Eckert]

Biqu has been killing it lately. I have their Knomi on my V400.

Also on a side note, I bought the Knomi for the Bambu A1 for my daughter for Christmas, and it shipped from China. Apparently they paid the import fees, as I got a shipment notification the fee had been delivered! I had been expecting to have to pay that.

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "3D Printing Tips and Tricks" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to 3d-printing-tips--...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/3d-printing-tips--tricks/bab137e6-3932-41d6-9521-0071ea9aa0adn%40googlegroups.com.

[Kurt The 3D Printer GUY!!]

I agree - this device does look Interesting! Maybe something I should get for my Elegoo Carbon. 

That being said...

I find it particularly interesting that they really target this product at Bambu printers (and then at other printers - almost as an after thought). 

I checked the Spec's in regards to Temps. And I have some thoughts on that. 

So, the new breed of 3DP's out there - that do Active Chamber temp heating - I'm REALLY Surprised that they brag that they can go to 60C for the chamber and that they can do higher temp materials like ABS and Carbon fiber filled filaments. In my experience, not only at Essentium - but, also at VisionMiner - the printer chambers really need to hit like 90C to get a good print and NOT 60C as all these printers are now shooting for!

But, that also brings up another issue. Which is, the effects of heat on printer components. In the case of the VisionMiner and Essentium (even more so for the HSE - with baffling at the top of the print chambers) printers - they separate many of the critical components such that they are Outside of the print chamber. The VM machines have the axis motors outside the heat chamber, and only the extruder motor is in the chamber (obviously). 

AS such, my point - putting a printer Inside a chamber and heating it - can be a Bad idea. I did that years ago, at SD3D - and my boss suggested putting a garbage bag over this one printer, to keep the heat in - as I was attempting to print a really big ABS part. Which I did - and about 23 hours in to the print job - we essentially destroyed the printer!

And, on my Elegoo Carbon - which is modeled after the Bambu model - I can clearly see the Axis driving motors are indeed inside the chamber. 

Therefore, I suspect that the printer developers these days have felt that the 60C chamber temp may supposedly be the Sweet spot - between heating up chamber to prevent parts from warping up off the bed. And, yet - not hot enough to truly affect the printer components. 

I still say - to get proper parts using ABS and Carbon fiber filled filaments - one really must have a an 80C or 90C chamber.  Just sayin'...

-K

[markni...@gmail.com]

Kurt,

I seriously question the need to ever hit 90c chamber temperature for the filaments we use, with the possible exception of ultem, which I have no use for.

I have a 20 year old Stratsys BST1200, which, as you no doubt know, prints ABS perfectly at I believe at a 72c chamber temp.

Please watch this entire video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OWH_N9PmjeY 

Clough got Bambu brand PPA-CF to print properly at 52c. He tried several tricks to hold the non-actively heat chamber to hold 52c, but once he did so, the inter layer adhesion with simply incredible. Please note that you must anneal the print afterward or you simply wont get the result.

I suspect that your Elegoo Carbon, with this heater, will properly print any filament that you're likely to want to use.

There is no need to maintain 90c chamber temp for the vast majority of filmament types.

It just cooks the living $h*t out for your printer, for no benefit.

[Kurt The 3D Printer GUY!!]

Yo Mark,

Thanks for your feedback - I certainly don't mind the open critique of my commentary. Will admit - I also had a Mojo - which may be Quite similar to your SSys machine - and it printed ABS Perfectly - but, I honestly don't know what the typical Chamber temp was. 

And - now you got me SERIOUSLY Curious...

AS such - I decided to ask CoPilot:

Me: " For the StrataSys Mojo 3D Printer - can you tell me what was the standard internal printing chamber Temp?? "

His reply:

The Stratasys Mojo 3D Printer maintained a standard internal chamber temperature of around 75–80 °C during printing.

🔧 Why the Chamber Temperature Matters

• ABS Filament Stability: The Mojo was designed to print primarily with ABS thermoplastic. ABS requires a heated chamber to prevent warping and layer separation.

• Controlled Environment: By keeping the chamber at ~75–80 °C, the printer ensured consistent adhesion between layers and minimized curling at the edges.

• Support Material Compatibility: The Mojo used a dual extrusion system (ABS + soluble support). The chamber temperature was tuned to balance both materials without degrading the soluble support.

So - CoPilot kinda confirms my point - that it should Higher than 60C -- but, for ABS - 90C is indeed Overkill. I think, when at VM - that we were printing PACF type material - with a standard 80C chamber setting. 

And, yeah - mainly it's ABS or ASA that I really want to print - and really want a nicely heated chamber. 

Will admit - I printed a large PLA part recently - and, sadly - got a little lifting at one corner...

-K

[markni...@gmail.com]

Oh, and I forgot.

You should vacuum out the bagel crumbs before using your toaster oven for annealing PA, PPA, and other nylons.

ASA, and ABS don't need to be annealed

[Kurt The 3D Printer GUY!!]

Woah - Hold on there Mark - I take offense to that comment - like you think I eat a LOT of Bagels! You are Mistaking me for my Ex-Wife!!!

That being said - NOBODY Should put plastics or do Annealing in the same ovens in which they cook food - it's Simply a BAD idea - it both directions. Getting plastic particles in food. As well as getting potential food or grease particles into the plastic!

AT VM - we actually used a REALLY Old Arse toaster oven for heating the spools - before then putting them into a Vacuum unit to pull the vapors out. 

-K

[LukeH]

Kurt, keep in mind that unlike older professional printers, a chamber heater on a home FDM printer is in addition to the heated bed, not as a replacement.

55 to 60 degrees for ABS (in addition to a 90 degree bed) is more than enough to prevent warping of the print.

[markni...@gmail.com]

Yep, I 100% agree with Luke on this.

[Scott Bussinger]

I wouldn't mix plastics and food in the same appliance. But thrift stores (like Goodwill around this area) are great places to pick up used small appliances like a toaster oven or dehydrators very inexpensively. Might take a couple of trips to find it, but they get a lot of stuff.

---

From: 3d-printing-...@googlegroups.com <3d-printing-...@googlegroups.com> on behalf of Kurt The 3D Printer GUY!! <vr...@optonline.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2025 2:24:51 PM
To: 3D Printing Tips and Tricks <3d-printing-...@googlegroups.com>
Subject: Re: Biqu has dropped an interesting product, a stand alone chamber heater for enclosed printers.

 

--

You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "3D Printing Tips and Tricks" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to 3d-printing-tips--...@googlegroups.com.

To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/3d-printing-tips--tricks/f09eb42f-18c7-4c68-b8f4-ec00bbdc84c2n%40googlegroups.com.

[Luke Hartfiel]

Scott, 

Isn’t  the dehydrator itself made of plastic? How does adding more make it worse? :)

On 15 Dec 2025, at 4:44 pm, Scott Bussinger <sco...@bussinger.org> wrote:



You received this message because you are subscribed to a topic in the Google Groups "3D Printing Tips and Tricks" group.
To unsubscribe from this topic, visit https://groups.google.com/d/topic/3d-printing-tips--tricks/DvpoxggShlg/unsubscribe.
To unsubscribe from this group and all its topics, send an email to 3d-printing-tips--...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/3d-printing-tips--tricks/MN2PR17MB30536DFCCAD59E33C386B708D3ADA%40MN2PR17MB3053.namprd17.prod.outlook.com.

[Scott Bussinger]

You may well be right, but I'd assume they'd have chosen plastic to build a dehydrator that can be heated without releasing anything. The whole point of using the dehydrator is to get the filament to release water and who knows what else is coming along with it from some of the more unusual filaments (say glow-in-the-dark).

For the $20 it'll cost to get a dedicated used dehydrator I wouldn't take a chance on it.

---

From: Luke Hartfiel <lhar...@gmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2025 9:56 PM
To: Scott Bussinger <sco...@bussinger.org>
Cc: 3d-printing-...@googlegroups.com <3d-printing-...@googlegroups.com>

[Bryan Eckert]

Kurt I’ve been printing ABS non stop in my H2C at 60C chamber temp and bed temp of 90C. The Grinch decorations are so solid I could literally knock you out with them, and almost look like they were injection molded. All 3 colors were printed separately, multi up filling the print chamber, and all mated perfectly flat, no warping at all.

For smaller parts I’ll set the chamber to 50C.

I think more important than temp is NO DRAFTS that could cause uneven cooling, and letting the print sit in the hot chamber after print to cool down slowly.

I know lots of people would print ABS on their X1Cs by setting the bed at max temp for an hour before printing which got the chamber near 50C,  but I never printed ABS on mine because they aren’t sealed up and filtered like the H2’s are. 

Which is why I think some of these older machines would want those higher chamber temps. They didn’t have stable airflow, or weren’t sealed up as well and had to compensate for it with higher temps. We have a few Makerbot Carbons at work that want a 90C chamber to print ABS, and they really stink while doing it, and still can warp. The H2’s print ABS perfectly.

--

You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "3D Printing Tips and Tricks" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to 3d-printing-tips--...@googlegroups.com.

To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/3d-printing-tips--tricks/d85d68d8-4ee5-4488-8b28-3359742deb0fn%40googlegroups.com.

[Kurt The 3D Printer GUY!!]

I partially disagree with Luke - as 90C for Bed is MUCH Better - I think 60C is Too low. But, yeah - agreed - chamber and Bed heating together - is more than Pro 3DP's were doing. However, I do NOT believe my Elegoo Carbon currently Actively heats the chamber. I do my Own trick - cranking up bed heat for like an Hour before printing ABS - and I use that other Big fan that shoots a wide Swath of air across build plate - to heat up that air flow - keeping bed at top of build space - to try and force whole chamber hotter. 

-K

[Kurt The 3D Printer GUY!!]

Good suggestion - exactly what I had been thinking - but, didn't put that in the prior reply - re: Thrift stores...

-K

[Kurt The 3D Printer GUY!!]

Yeah Bryan - the Stench I got, in my apartment - back in like 2017 - from a 16 Hour print on my Mojo - was HORRIBLE!!! I got back from work - after it printing for 13 Hours - and I was almost GAGGING on the Fumes! I cracked open windows and put the fan on over my stove - to pull air out! 

Thanks for your feedback again re: Temps. 

I suspect your newer H2C also has solid Insulation in the inside of the printer - which the original X1C did not. Am I right???

-K

[Bryan Eckert]

It’s not really insulated, it’s just plastic sides. But it’s sealed tight, as the “poop chute” is blocked off unless the print head is in a certain position.

It circulates the air from the top of the chamber through hepa/charcoal filter and heater continuously and puts it back in the chamber below the heat bed.

It prints ABS so well I don’t ever want to print PLA again 🤣

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "3D Printing Tips and Tricks" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to 3d-printing-tips--...@googlegroups.com.

To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/3d-printing-tips--tricks/fe71e574-1d03-423a-b0d9-a8190633b8cen%40googlegroups.com.

[Bryan Eckert]

Also one thing to remember is materials technology isn’t standing still. We have ABS, ABS+, high speed ABS, etc. 

Hell we even have high temp PLA now. 

So the Polylite ABS I’m printing with isn’t the same blend of ABS when 3D printing was in its infancy.

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "3D Printing Tips and Tricks" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to 3d-printing-tips--...@googlegroups.com.

To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/3d-printing-tips--tricks/fe71e574-1d03-423a-b0d9-a8190633b8cen%40googlegroups.com.

[Luke Hartfiel]

I have a Qidi X-Max3 (among other devices) that is similarly amazing at ABS prints (although not multi material capable out of the box, but I’ll fix that soon). Heated chamber, active carbon filter, etc. Prints ABS great at 55 degrees chamber and 90 degree bed. Given how big the build volume is I was surprised at how good the chamber heater worked.

I’ve had mine for over a year now, but I note that the Max-3 is currently been run out (to be replaced with the Max 4, which is truely massive - 390x390 build plate in a heated chamber, and multi colour capable). I’ve seen the Max-3 recently as cheap as like $350USD (they are $399 on the Qidi US store).

On 16 Dec 2025, at 10:17 am, Bryan Eckert <bigyel...@gmail.com> wrote:



You received this message because you are subscribed to a topic in the Google Groups "3D Printing Tips and Tricks" group.
To unsubscribe from this topic, visit https://groups.google.com/d/topic/3d-printing-tips--tricks/DvpoxggShlg/unsubscribe.
To unsubscribe from this group and all its topics, send an email to 3d-printing-tips--...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/3d-printing-tips--tricks/CANjNy1UaZe8Q%3DygZF4OPtzYL2-SxSq3%2B0kuARLHMLTY6iRP%3DeA%40mail.gmail.com.

[Kurt The 3D Printer GUY!!]

Wow - honestly - didn't know there were so many new variants of ABS - like there are for PLA. Maybe I need to start exploring some of those ABS variants. 

Only problem I have with trying out the newer types/variants of ABS - is that if the new variations break the ability to do Acetone smoothing & welding - then that is truly a Deal Breaker for me!!!

-K

[Kurt The 3D Printer GUY!!]

Ouch - the Max4 printer at that price sounds AMAZING!!!

Too bad I already recently got the Elegoo Carbon - as the new Qidi sounds like a Better option - considering build size, heated chamber and  multi colour capable!!!

-K