Gluing Magnets

[Bryan Murphy]

Any recommendations on what glue would work well to glue a Neodymium magnet to an ASA part?  

I printed a magnetic scraper holder and the holes for the magnets are not press fit.  I used some Gorilla Glue to glue the magnets in but the glue is peeling away from both the print and the magnet.  I'm skeptical super glue will be any better.  I also have some E6000 and JB-Weld that I've used for other purposes but haven't a great experience with either of those.

I'm actually tempted to modify the model so that I can press fit the magnets.  I don't know why it wasn't designed that way in the first place.  

Thanks,

Bryan

[Sophie]

What kind of gorilla glue as they do many different kinds?

[Bryan Murphy]

It just says "Clear Gorilla Glue" on the bottle.  Amino alkoxysilane, HALS-sebacate is what it says on the label.  I've used this plenty of times gluing these magnets into PLA prints without issue, but those also have a little bit of press-fit tension (Gridfinity).  It's peeling right off the ASA with little effort but takes a little more work to pull off the magnets.

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[Sean]

Try using a drill or Dremel to make small dimples or to rough texture the surface under the magnet. The glue will have more surface area and texture to gain purchase. 

This would work especially well with the JB weld or other epoxy like glues.

And I would suggest also trying hot glue.

I've found it to work pretty well when you're trying to glue something into a pocket on a 3d print make sure to apply enough that it squeezes out. Once cooled cut off the excess with a hobby or utility knife.

It will encapsulate and lock in the object you're wanting to retain.

It doesn't do that great at bonding flat surfaces to flat surfaces but things in a pocket, it's pretty good. 

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[Kurt The 3D Printer GUY!!]

Bryan - I know this VERY Much will Deviate from your original question - but, here goes Nothin'...

Years ago, down in San Diego, at SD3D (which no longer exists) - I was doing a project for Manscapes (yeah - folks know that co. of course - which DOES still exist). I was printing this small kind of tubular part. And, they wanted a Nut buried in the piece. So, I created a shape that was the same over shape as a regular 6-sided nut, increased the shape a smidge, used that shape to cut a boolean hole into the main tubular piece. Then, when printing, after it printed to the top of the nut cavity - I paused the print job - dropped in the actual nut - continued printing - and it turned out PERFECT. I brought it to the folks at Manscape - and they liked it. 

So, in theory - you can do an identical operation. Why? Cause there are cylindrical magnets out there that have a whole, and even inset conic shape to put in a screw, with a flat head - such that the top of the flat head screw will then be flush with the top of the magnet. 

This is something I wanted to do a while back, as I started a personal project whilst at SD3D - but, sadly - I never managed to move forwards on that project...

What do you think???

Yes - it's a VERY Alternate version of attaching a magnet to a 3D Printed part!

-K

[3D Printing Tips and Tricks]

I printed some mounts for halloween spot lights that attach via a magnet to the underside of my open garage door. I used the rectangular magnets that are sold at Harbor Freight. I used Shoe Goo which is a Polyurethane glue and it worked so well that when I forced one light too hard once the print broke yet the magnet stuck to the part. It doesn't matter what kind of material you use. If both parts are flat it holds really well.