Show #609 - you said my name!

[Kurt A 3d]

Andy,  

Loved the call out.   Whenever you mention me on the air it causes the groupies to line up (well my wife smiles at me).

 I guess I have to comment after that shout out.

So, I agree that  language barriers, different use of idioms etc make things “interesting”.  For example if in prusaslicer you have selected “Print Settings:  0.2mm SOLUBLE INTERFACE….” And you let’s say changed your infill density from “15%” to “5%” (among other changes) then you decide to switch “Print Settings: 0.1mm FAST DETAL…” you will be faced with a screen that looks like this (see attached picture):

I never seem to be able to hold in my mind what the four buttons do:

“Transfer”

“Discard”

“Save”

“Cancel”

I think they map perhaps to the following options:

“I want to switch and carry over the 5% to the 0.1mm preset”

“I want to switch and forget about the 5%” 

“I want to switch but update the 0.1mm preset to have 5% etc”

“I dont want to switch to the 0.2mm preset”

Is this what they mean?  Do they mean it in that order? Who knows, I surely dont, and I am not sure I will remember it unless I like write it in sharpie on my  computer someplace :-).   And if this is what they mean how about other options like “Save&Transfer” :-)

On to what you asked…. While I tend to just noodle around, I agree that there are times when you have to sort of figure out what to kick on the XL - they do have a lot of documentation (Here:

https://help.prusa3d.com/product/xl/troubleshooting_194 )

For example this one :

https://help.prusa3d.com/article/toolchanger-problem-17813-xl-multi-tool_802566?product=xl

But mostly I just tend to kick the tires.  

I had another problem with the 6.0.4? Firmware where my printer just stalled every print over and over about the same place.  The UI was unresponsive though the screen was still updating.   I found that power cycling the machine caused the power fail interrupt to perfectly recover the print.  I was advised by support to either move forward to the release-candidate firmware or back to the previous release, I went forward.   I think on the podcast you said you email support - I find their chat support to be more timely, if I have an hour to wait on queue.  I spend the hour writing down detailed explanation of my questions, gathering pictures and videos to include.  You can’t send pictures or videos to the chat, but if you get iCloud or dropbox links they follow them and review your media.     PS: you may laugh at this, other folks on redit-or-facebook-not-sure-which have found that when it hangs instead of power cycling you can just pop one of the other toolheads off the rack and then put it back - that puts you in the same place you were complying about with the motors free and you then pop the current tool head off and put it back in the rack.   

Now a question for you - I am printing with PETG and it’s curling up slightly causing head crashes, should I lower or raise the temperature ?

Kurt-A  (Since I am older than Kurt-1 its definitely a golden vs silver age, superman thing we have going). 

[Kurt The 3D Printer GUY!!]

OMG - now it's Super-Kurt is it?????

Ugh...

Now we must put our Super Powers Head-to-Head!!!!!

1st - I agree with you - I HATE THAT NAG - and the Options indeed Confusing - I have the SAME Crap in the Elegoo Slicer - re: Transfer and such!!!!

Double Ugh...

2nd - And, Andy - feel free to let me know if this input is On Point. In regards to PETG curling - it could be you have TOO Much part cooling. But, the other thing that could be the problem - but, you did NOT Give enough details - is that you can get curling at this point as noted by the Red arrow:

But, IF the above is your situation - is it a standard overhang that is at an angle such that you do NOT NEED Supports? OR - are you doing Full Contact Supports - and it's PLA Support - with PETG on top that is curling?

Like that Robot used to say - We Need More Input!!!

-K

[3D Printing Tips and Tricks]

The bed temp will not make a difference for PETG. You need Aquanet as well as helper disks. Only ABS will react to heat soaking to minimize shrinkage. Heat soak PETG and you’ll get other problems like sag.

[Kurt A 3d]

Andy/Kurt-1

Not bed temp, temp to print/cooling.  So Kurt-1 got it close

Im printing a Costco hotdog and drink holder for a friend of my son to give to her husband as a birthday joke gift.

I am printing it on end, since it will hang off the shopping cart and I figure this way it is less likely to split.  I am printing it using POLAR PETG with PrintedSolid PLA as full contact supports.

I get curling up here sort of, or perhaps more like a blob... any way I also have troubles like this when I try to print a sphere (like a lamp) 

Here it is with supports

I had a slight crash caused a skip... 

So was just wondering if there was any wisdom about temps 

Kurt-A

PS: I do think that prusa documentation is what Andy was looking for :-)

[3D Printing Tips and Tricks]

Interesting thing!

Your problem is definitely a tricky puzzle that I’ve seen way too many times. Anybody here remember the Cells bowl?

IME if downward cooling doesn’t work… and it likely won’t…. either forced support that surrounds the entire thing overhang which probably won’t work with full contact non stick support… or… change the print orientation and if not that… your design. Seriously.

[Kurt]

I concur with Andy's very last suggestion - as it's the EASIEST! 

Since you are already doing full contact support - chop that part so instead of the smooth angling - chop it a little (in the slicer - with a Box & a Boolean operation) - and that will Completely solve your problem and yet NOT Severely impact the look of the printed part!!!

If what I am saying does NOT make sense - send the STL here - and I can open it in Prusa Slicer for you - and do the chopping and get you back at updated STL. Although - I suspect design would only be a 3MF file - since it's obviously Multi-color!

-K

[Kurt A 3d]

Printing on edge was educational, or you could say I got schooled 

Anyway the full contact support didnt work as well with the polar PETG on top of Printed Solid PLA.   There were a number of issues with the print, including some design mishaps.   I also had some layer splitting.   Not sure I have the Polar PETG dialed in.   I appreciate the feedback.   

Kurt-A

[Kurt The 3D Printer GUY!!]

Hola Amigo Doppelgänger - I'm glad I was able to help School you con su problemas!!!

Adios,

-K

[Bryan Eckert]

I would have cut the model so the plate prints laying flat, and the hangar can print on edge rotated 180 from the orientation in the screenshots on it's flat side (or just angled if that side is also angled). 

The slicer can automatically add registration pins. A little glue, and yer done.

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[Kurt Gluck]

Bryan

Yeah, good suggestions.   I would rather not glue if I dont have to.   I am looking at printing it flat.  I am increasing the walls for strength.  Full contact PLA supports aren’t working that well with the combination of fillaments so I am doing small cross section test prints experimenting with support settings.   

Kurt-A

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On Apr 22, 2026, at 12:01 PM, Bryan Eckert <bigyel...@gmail.com> wrote:



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[Bryan Eckert]

Yeah looking at it now I'd just print it oriented as it comes oriented. A drink and a hot dog don't weigh much. Lots of pics of hot dogs in the make threads of that model 😂

[Bryan Eckert]

Another thought would be just add a cut modifier so that surface is flat. I suppose the actual tray is shaped in that manner. I'd have ran the hangar all the way down the tray, unless it's like that to make up for how the shopping carts are. In which case the shape makes sense for injection molding.

[Kurt A 3d]

This was the result of my vertical print (I left out a word by mistake) 

You are correct there is no reason for it to stop where it does except to make the hotdog look longer perhaps 

Kurt-A

[3D Printing Tips and Tricks]

Nice!