Best way to mount large print.

[Taavi Korgeperv]

Hi everyone,

I’m working on a large wall-mounted crest approx. 1.5m x 1m total size, about 10 cm thick possibly slightly less.

It will be FDM printed in PLA in two large sections, then assembled, primed and painted for outdoor installation.

The client plans to mount it permanently onto a concrete wall.

I’m looking for advice on what is the best way to mount something like this? Also, considering PLA and outdoor conditions, would reinforcing the back with fiberglass be a good thing or nah?

I’ll attach an image of the model for context.

[Kurt]

Darn - I replied directly back to Taavi - instead of to the forum. 

Issue now rectified. 

See my reply below as well as the new reply from Taavi. Yeah - if the item is to be mounted outside - I think PLA is not a good idea. I understand that it will be painted & primed - but, still not sure if PLA is best idea. It could potentially "melt" or just warp if it's outdoors in the heat - and coating with Paint may still Not stop that from happening. 

Am curious to know what others think...

And - reinforcing back with Fiberglass may help. Will admit - something like this may best be done in Wood and using CNC. Just a thought...

-K

On Mon, Mar 2, 2026 at 8:24 AM Taavi Korgeperv <tuff...@gmail.com> wrote:

The 10 cm thickness is much yeah. I’ll confirm with the client and most likely reduce it.

It will be mounted outdoors.

I’m not printing it myself the printing company suggested PLA, but I’ll definitely ask them about PETG and see what they think.

Thanks for the advice

E, 2. märts 2026, 15:09 Kurt <kurt.the...@gmail.com> kirjutas:

1st - are you sure about the 10cm thickness? That sounds Quite thick!

2nd - if it's to be displayed on a Concrete wall - is it Indoors or Outdoors?

3rd - For something like this - I would suggest doing it in like PETG and not PLA. Just sayin'...

For mounting - I'd suggest putting holes in the back - Boolean 2 or more cylinders - and if you do them like 45 degrees - you won't need supports. 

I hope that makes sense...

-K

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[Bryan Eckert]

PLA isn't going to melt just being outside. I have some PLA printed yard things that are years old and look like the day I stuck them out there. The sunshade mounting bracket broke in my Subaru, I printed a new one in PLA and it stayed there for two years before I traded the car in.

IMO the real issue is the weight of PLA, and that PLA creeps under load. The heat in summer will accelerate the creep. If it's being painted, a better choice would be ABS or ASA.

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[Kurt]

Bryan - I SURPRISED the PLA part survived in your car for Two years! 

Honestly - it's a known thing - don't leave PLA parts in cars - in summer time - when inside of car can get WAY Hot!

I showed a printed part - last summer - of a Purple PLA part - that I forgot in my car one day - and BOOM - it got Totally warped!!!

Others over the years stated the same issues - that's why I am literally Shocked that a part survived in your car for 2 years. 

As for printing in ABS - printing such LARGE Part will definitely Warp -- unless it's a seriously enclosed and heated print chamber.

I still say - a piece this big - it's Better to CNC the part out of wood. Or, even - CNC'd Styrofoam. I personally know someone - it my Art Studio space who has done Exactly this - CNC a big Styrofoam part!

-K

[Bryan Eckert]

Honestly I was a bit shocked myself. I printed it as a temporary fix, and had planned to print it in ABS when I got the chance. But, it hung on somehow. It was sandwiched in between the headliner and the roof of the vehicle, and screwed into place which probabl helped.

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[Darrell jan]

at 1.5 meters by 1 meter, even for two pieces, that's a big printer!

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[Kurt]

Yeah Darrell - you are SO Right. Even just a 1x1 meter is Darn BIG - like a Modix printer. 

Of course, when you get into something of that Size - typically - as you go Bigger - you tend to either have Bigger problem - or Bigger Potential for problems!

-K

[Sean]

It's been my experience that large flat(ish) objects like this will tend to warp at the corners if in direct sunlight. I printed some moon craters' for my astronomy club and painted them with grey primer. I had the bright idea of setting them in the sunlight to dry quicker. The models were 240 x 240 squares, 8mm at the thinnest point around the perimiter and 25ish mm around the rim of the crater. After an hour in the june sun the corners curled up by a 6 mm or more.

I would suggest using some type of construction adhesive and screws to attach it to a wooden backing plate.

[Kurt The 3D Printer GUY!!]

Hey Sean - interesting story! 

Taavi did suggest - "reinforcing the back with fiberglass" - and that may be a viable option to stop what happened in your case!!!

But - Let's circle back to what I said!

We ALL must consider that One Tool will NOT solve ALL problems. In this case - 3D Printing may NOT be the BEST solution to the problem at hand - or rather - this project. 

I still say - for a piece this big - if one is already going to Prime and Paint it - use a CNC - and use Wood for even a Foam material - to get the job done!!!

NO?!?!?

-K

[Lee Foulkes]

Ive been interested in this lately. Been reading up on epoxy resin brush on PLA. Improves UV resistance and can also add a little bit of strength.