PETG and Core xy printers

[Justin Cummings]

I currently have a cr-10s that prints good, but could be better, and I print exclusively with petg. I have been thinking of switching to a core xy machine (possibly building a voron 2.4 or upgrading an ender 5 plus) due to their printing speed. Given the print speed limitations of petg, is it worth moving to a new machine for a marginal increase in print speed?

I am currently printing 40 mm/s on my cr-10s, if a core xy machine can output quality prints around 60-70 mm/s, I think it could be worth it.

[Kurt at VR-FX]

Or go for a Delta and print even faster. I have not heard of speed limits w/PETG! Maybe you need to print Hotter when going faster, and maybe retract More if you have a lot of stringing...

-K

On 9/8/2021 7:36 AM, Justin Cummings wrote:

I currently have a cr-10s that prints good, but could be better, and I print exclusively with petg. I have been thinking of switching to a core xy machine (possibly building a voron 2.4 or upgrading an ender 5 plus) due to their printing speed. Given the print speed limitations of petg, is it worth moving to a new machine for a marginal increase in print speed?

I am currently printing 40 mm/s on my cr-10s, if a core xy machine can output quality prints around 60-70 mm/s, I think it could be worth it.

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "3D Printing Tips and Tricks" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to 3d-printing-tips--...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/3d-printing-tips--tricks/899d257b-95ac-4f98-bf17-deec7e012428n%40googlegroups.com.

[James Fackert]

anybody working with one of those belted or surface sweeper deltas yet?

any luck?

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/3d-printing-tips--tricks/614d62d2-645e-8072-2564-82af574149f8%40optonline.net.

[LukeH]

Kurt, that’s the thing with PETG - unlike, say PLA or ANS, overhearing PETG to print faster is a gamble, since if you make PETG too hot it changes at a chemical level, and forms a rock-hard, opaque substance that cannot be tempered (well, not at regular 3D printer temperatures. I guess you could melt anything with enough heat).

If you are printing PETG super hot, then one clog and it is new hot end time.

To print PETG fast, you really need a high flow hot end and be able to control temperatures (as opposed to a regular hot end and turning the temperature up to compensate for the small melt zone).

People who are still printing at 40mm/s for anything (except maybe flexibles), aren’t taking advantage of any of the improvements of the past five or six years, and might as well still be using a RAMPS board in their Anet A8.:)

A reasonable CoreXY, or even a well tunes cheap (bottom of the market) unit should be able to comfortably print at about 100mm/s to 120mm/s with excellent results, and probably faster. A reasonable delta should be able to do the same at speeds beyond 200mm/a. I’m not even talking about expensive, high-end machines or custom builds - just the kit machines you buy from China.

[Mark Steele]

I also print exclusively in PETG due to sensitivity to PLA. I am 95% done with my Voron 2.4 build and plan to print PETG and low odor ABS with it. 

It should be printing in a day or two so I'll let you know how it goes.

My Sovol and my Neptune both print PETG at 50mms, but I plan to o push the Voron to 100mms and see what happens. 

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/3d-printing-tips--tricks/13de9215-be86-454c-9bcb-c234c1dcf00an%40googlegroups.com.

[Luke Hartfiel]

50mm/s is about average for a bedslinger like an Ender3 (or a Sovol or Neptune). A Voron 2.4  (or other quality Core XY, like a HEVO or a RailCore) should have no issues at 100mm/s. In fact you could probably start at somewhere between 80 and 120mm/s, since there is no point in tuning a machine like that to anything slower.

Depending on your hot end selection, nozzle size, and extruder stepper, you should be able to easily print at 150mm/s once it is properly dialled in (obviously if you pick a V6 and run a 0.8mm nozzle, 150mm/s is probably not achievable, but a Magnum with a 0.6mm nozzle should do it fine). Beyond that would be possible with special mods and compromising output quality, if you are in to tinkering.

On 9 Sep 2021, at 10:05 am, Mark Steele <mstee...@gmail.com> wrote:



[Mark Napier]

I don't have good results with PETG.  It is sticky and leaves little blobs (and big ones) behind.  Sometimes the nozzle will hit a hardened blob and make the stepper skip and then print fails.

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/3d-printing-tips--tricks/9A8476FC-41D2-4903-B1A0-98B74D017A60%40gmail.com.

[markni...@gmail.com]

I get similar results as Mark many times with PETG.

Mark Napier is the other ABS enthusiast, whose last name escaped me on the hot box thread 5 or 6 threads back.

Mark, if you have a minute, review that thread and see if you have anything to add.

[TobyCWood]

While all PETG suffers from this... very fine strings that slowly build up... You can minimize it by trying another vendors PETG. I have found the Filaments.CA stuff strings a lot more than what I have bought from Amazon. You should also not be hotter than 235C. Crossover in PETG happens when the stuff does not flow and sits there at 235C as in a clog. If you clog with PETG and do not notice it till the next day then THATS when you'll need a new hotend! However, if you do go hotter with PETG you can and will experience the same thing that happens to TPU; it boils. Little, tiny bubbles form in the stuff which in turn makes the color dull and ruins the esthetic.

[Kurt at VR-FX]

Hey there my Friend Mark - Long Time NO SEE!!! But - yeah, I know - its Typical of you to go MIA at times...

Will admit - I too have had problems printing with PETG in the past - and found it difficult to work with. At one point, when at SD3D - I would get Annoyed when clients insisted on PETG. Although, that being said - I have Early on with PETG - got some Great results with some Great colors. But, maybe at SD3D - we were working with another brand which was problematic. I hated the stringing. And, yeah - it tended to get on the Nozzle - and, for a long print job - if that happened too much - then you have a FUBAR Situ!!!

-K

P.S. Maybe we will have to be roommates again one day soon at MRRF!!!

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/3d-printing-tips--tricks/CAFS2mBd9ef9u9cHpZeR8-REehhnSng-511j8mYxZdXmiHGbyEg%40mail.gmail.com.

[Mark Napier]

Yeah, life gets in the way.

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/3d-printing-tips--tricks/e1532df5-733f-2e4b-49b7-8d7870d9edb2%40optonline.net.

[Justin Cummings]

Would the ender 5 plus (with some upgrades) be a worthwhile investment as far as a Core XY machine? I can't afford the voron 2.4 right now, and it seems some of the parts are unavailable right now.

[TobyCWood]

No. Its not a CoreXY machine and to make it a coreXY machine is not optimal. Its like trying to polish a turd. Its' base and top are 2020 extrusions. It uses the Creality extruder and it's not a fully open sourced, well supported 32 bit controller with FW you can easily tweak.

For that matter even the CoreXY kits via Aliexpress are turds too. IMO, if you do not have the money then hedge your bet and simply print slow on an Ender 3.

[Justin Cummings]

So a voron 2.4 would be the way to go then? The voron kit from aliexpress (i believe it's the formbot kit) has hit and miss reviews. What kit would you recommend? I will probably sell my upgraded cr-10s to help fund the voron.

[TobyCWood]

I can't comment on the Ali kits beyond that they are probably not the best parts you can get. For example it's well known that the cheap industrial sliders (the HWIN knockoffs) always need to have the bearings removed and all cleaned out and then re-lubed before they are installed. 

Also it's not a good idea to sell off all your 3D Printers and then build one. You will need a 3D Printer if you are building a complete 3D Printer.

[Justin Cummings]

can you resin print all or most of the parts needed? I have an epax e10 which has a fairly large print bed.

[TobyCWood]

Depends. The parts I get with the resins I've used with my Photon are way too brittle, but the parts I see they get at where I consult with a Form3 I'd say yes.

[James Madison]

Yes, you can try the High-speed PETG. It is designed for high-speed 3d printing. The 3D print speed is up to 100mm/s.