I agree, that's a good web page. David Pascoe has written some good stuff over the years.
I'm also a surveyor, and I look at a lot of fuel systems. I think the most important item regarding installation of an aluminum fuel tank is air circulation. If the tank is made of the right marine-grade aluminum alloy, it doesn't need painting if it has good circulation under and around it. Whatever is used to support the tank off its shelf must be non-absorbent and present no risk of galvanic action. Note that David says don't use rubber because it contains carbon-black, but there are closed-cell (non-absorbent) foam products that will work.
I had a '72 Salty Dog that I re-tanked, and I found strips of closed-cell foam, with pressure-sensitive adhesive on both sides, at a supplier in the commercial glass business.
The strip product is used to fuse two layers of glass together at the edges in the production of thermal insulated windows. It's neat stuff, and not too expensive. It's about 1" wide and 1/2" thick, with adhesive on both sides. I positioned strips of it across each tank bottom, directly under the baffles inside the tank. The tanks fit tightly under the cockpit deck on the Salty dog; I secured them using pieces of 3x3" aluminum angle screwed to the undersides of the cockpit deck. Don't put a strip of wood around the base of the tank to secure it - that will trap moisture! If your old tanks were installed in '97, that's only 15 years - those tanks were installed wrong.
You said you're having tanks made - remember that federal law requires the tanks to be built by a shop that knows how to pressure-test and properly label the tanks. And, because they're a very tight fit, it's easier to install the tanks if they don't have welded spuds for attaching the fill and vent hoses. Have them built with threaded fittings welded flush with the tank tops and then install stainless steel nipples after the tanks are in place. I had my tanks built by Coastline Equipment in Bellingham, WA - they built the original tanks for Uniflite, and they still have the drawings on file. They weren't too expensive, and they fit like a glove. I'm in Seattle, so I picked the tanks up at the factory.
And, also remember that the feed lines from the tanks to the engines must contain check valves at the tanks - again, required by law, as well as ABYC standards, to prevent a siphon in the event of a leak. And, the law also requires a very specific type of fuel hose that must be labeled," USCG A-1" Don't scrimp on fittings or hose - replace everything all the way to the engines while replacing the tanks, including fill and vent hoses.
There's more to consider if you want the installation to comply with ABYC standards, which hardly existed when Uniflite was in business. If you have more questions or concerns, maybe I can help. This user group is a good place to discuss this stuff, since everybody who loves these tough old boats can benefit by knowing how to safely update them.
John Strong
1981 37' Coastal Cruiser "SURPRISE"