[UnifliteWorld] sliding windows

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Tom & Judy Nunan

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Apr 26, 2010, 10:18:27 PM4/26/10
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I have a 1975 32' sport sedan. I have to replace the window channels for the sliding windows on each side. Would appreciate any advice from someone who has done this. Thank you

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flitebuilder

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May 5, 2010, 6:56:42 AM5/5/10
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I have just finished what you are doing. The tracks onmy 36' SS were
screwed into the stainless frame and the end of the screw ground off
so that it would fit into the opening.

Since I am completly refurbishing the boat, I took the frames out and
took the windows to a glass shop where I had them replace some broken
pieces and replace the tracks for me. Cost to replace all the tracks
was about $250. they replace the tracks felt and all. You might be
able to find a shop with felt to go back into the original tracks.

tomdepot

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May 5, 2010, 8:19:22 AM5/5/10
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Look up Stan Pro window channel, you can order it from somewhere. The
part that will disappoint you, however, is only a year after you
replace it, it will look like hell again. That felt just doesn't
last. If I were to do it again, I would seriously consider re-working
the windows all together, either solid glass panels that don't open,
or some other design. Be sure to check your frames for holes when you
have the glass and channel out, that was where my leaks were coming
from. The old screw holes that the channel was secured to, they had
gotten bigger with time and water was able to seep through.

I think Stan Pro or someone else makes plastic channel that's cheaper
and might actually weather better, assuming the plastic is just soft
enough that you can do without the felt altogether.

Good Luck
Tom in Florida

GP

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May 6, 2010, 7:26:08 AM5/6/10
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I have a 42sf replaced the SS twice. Then i went with the pvc type
channel I posted some pictures on this site. You have to have access
to a drill press as you have to make a fixture to drill the channel.
Again i posted some pictures to show. I live in florida and it rains
alot, NO LEAKS and it looks good. I went with the black (white) is the
other color. The windows slide much easier on the plastic the the old
felt. If i can answer any questions let me know.
GP

On Apr 26, 10:18 pm, "Tom & Judy Nunan" <jtnu...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

ferari

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May 6, 2010, 2:01:17 PM5/6/10
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GP,

I looked up your post on a previous window problem where you spell out
how you did the PVC. Could you send me the pics of your project? My
'73 36' DC has the same problem. I am a visual person and need lots
of pics.

Thanks!

GP

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May 6, 2010, 3:29:53 PM5/6/10
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Ferari: The pictures i took are in the (Files Section) under GP shows
the fixture i used and the finished windows as well as the old SS and
felt design click on view all. If you need more pictures just me
you e-mail address and i will send what you need.
GP
> For more options, visit this group athttp://groups.google.com/group/unifliteworld?hl=en.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Tom & Judy Nunan

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May 6, 2010, 5:19:15 PM5/6/10
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Thanks for the info and the pics. Did you remove the frames in order to get
the channels out? And where did you find the PVC channels? Once again,
Thanks.

--------------------------------------------------
From: "GP" <docknd...@hotmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 06, 2010 12:29 PM
To: "UnifliteWorld" <unifli...@googlegroups.com>
Subject: [UnifliteWorld] Re: sliding windows

GP

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May 7, 2010, 7:05:16 AM5/7/10
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No!!!! slide windows back and forth till you can get all the small
screwsout starting with the bottom channel slide a thin knife under
it and seperate from the frame lift the channel and windows out. I
live in florida and bought them from "Boat Owners Warehouse" They are
made by Beckson. I think I used 10 lengths, 8' long.
GP

On May 6, 5:19 pm, "Tom & Judy Nunan" <jtnu...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> Thanks for the info and the pics. Did you remove the frames in order to get
> the channels out? And where did you find the PVC channels? Once again,
> Thanks.
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "GP" <dockndoric...@hotmail.com>
> >> athttp://groups.google.com/group/unifliteworld?hl=en.-Hide quoted text -

Seattle Chris

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Nov 25, 2012, 6:31:50 PM11/25/12
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Resurrecting this older post. I need to replace the channels on my 32 SS. The water is practically pouring in under the window frame on the starboard side. I'm finding double rigid channel, beaded and unbeaded. Anyone who has done this project, I'd appreciate some guidance. I also have to replace the weatherstripping around the front windows. Does a glass shop have to come out to do that or can a boat yard do it? Thanks all.

Georgeviking

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Nov 26, 2012, 8:49:34 AM11/26/12
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Cris be sure water is coming from under the channel and not under the frame assembly, I removed the entire frame from my 32' 78 and found the small leak had rotted the wood all along the front and two feet along the top. If for any reason you do remove the frames when you put them back use a a sealant that reman is flexible, and don't screw the frames tight to the boat you want to form a gasket not squeeze it all out I used a few shims 3/16 thick tighten screws wrist tight, remove shims add a bit of caulk, and after fully curing tighten a half turn. If the window leaks in the future you can tighten a few screws as you will have a gasket that will still compress and seal. Ps when ripping wood to replace any I opted to silicone and clamp in place once all was secure I put the window back in

Seattle Chris

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Nov 26, 2012, 11:11:11 PM11/26/12
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Thanks for sharing your experience George. I think the best plan is to remove the whole frame to see what condition the wood is in. Do you or anyone have the window drawings? I'd like to see what I'm getting into.
How did you repair the rotted wood? I'm sure I'll find some rot. Did you also replace the window tracks? Not looking forward to doing this project during the rainy season in Seattle but need to dry it up. Thanks again.

George

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Nov 27, 2012, 11:45:18 AM11/27/12
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Hey Chris,
I do not have any drawings window frame has a lip on it app 1/2 inch from outside edge, cutting old sealant is hardest part windows came out and were very stable, I used marine ply for replacement wood since I work alone most times I had to apply. Sealant on inside of cut out place wood in place and clamp it, I used one piece for bottom one top and one forward so I needed to secure wood before reinstalling window. On top I think I had to stack 3/4 and add 1/2
To be flush with existing and I got wall paper that closely matched existing, ingot lucky and did not have to screw with headliner.

Sent from my iPad

On Nov 26, 2012, at 11:11 PM, Seattle Chris <c_dim...@hotmail.com> wrote:

> Thanks for sharing your experience George. I think the best plan is to remove the whole frame to see what condition the wood is in. Do you or anyone have the window drawings? I'd like to see what I'm getting into.
> How did you repair the rotted wood? I'm sure I'll find some rot. Did you also replace the window tracks? Not looking forward to doing this project during the rainy season in Seattle but need to dry it up. Thanks again.
>
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Hunter

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Sep 9, 2019, 4:45:12 AM9/9/19
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Hello All,
Does anyone know where to buy the a replacement vertical stainless chanel for the sliding windows, unfortunately mine went for a swim.  This is for a 1978 38ft.  Uniparts no longer has it?  Also one of the window frames is cracked in the corner are the repairable?  I appreciate any thoughts.
-Hunter

Maggie Harbour

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Sep 10, 2019, 8:25:01 PM9/10/19
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Defender Marine    Stanpro model 16m sliding window edge
GP

Bob Leccese

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Sep 12, 2019, 9:50:01 AM9/12/19
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Thanks for the information. I needed to do something about this. 

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