reel and line recommendations

[Aden]

Looks like I am about to pull the trigger on a switch rod but needed some guidance.  I am looking at a the Batson Rainshadow RX7 in a 6 weight.  It sounds like if all I want to do is overhead cast that I could just line up 2 sizes and throw a normal WF 8 weight line.  But, if I want to try a scandi or skagit head then I am at a loss as to what size reel will accommodate that line.  Suggestions?

Thanks 

[Dalton Terrell]

Aden,

I have the same rod in a 7wt, that I've had for three years or so. I really don't remember the specs on any of the lines I've tried or have, but would suggest going much heavier for an overhead line than a standard 8wt. The Scandi line that works well for regular touch and go casts is about the right weight for overhead casts.

Dalton

[Dalton Terrell]

Aden,

Will you be at the next beer tie? Would you want to borrow my 7wt for a while? I've got a couple lines on reels you could borrow too. I know you're a stand up dude, as you donated that sweet looking rod for auction.

Dalton 

[Aden]

I will be at the feb 11 tie. I would love to at least cast it. That is a generous offer. Thank you!

[Steve F]

I'm just putting the finishing touches on the 5wt version of that switch myself.  It's important to note that Batson rates their switches with singlehand line ratings (AFTMA).  So the 6wt switch is in fact rated for a 6wt single hand line which will be the lower spectrum of the specified grain window.  The windows are below. 

 

Model Low Grain Window High Grain Window
IF1085-4M 140 280
IF1086-4M 160 330
IF1087-4M 185 380
IF1088-4M 210 440 

Other mfr's will use a spey-type line designation on their switches (+2/3 wts).  The variance tends to muddy the waters for someone trying to make like-for-like comparisons.  I'm not saying you cant overline by two and have at it, but just a word of caution.  There is a big difference between this Batson 6wt Switch (160 - 330gr) and say, my TFO DC 6wt Switch (300-500gr).

 

Ive found that the best advice for lining a switch rod is use the lower end of the spectrum of the grain window for overhead, middle of the road for scandi, and upper end for skagit.  But those are ballparks, it can take some trial and error to find what works best for you.

[Aden]

That is some good information.  Thank you.  

How about the reel?  Would a large arbor work with scandi or skagit heads?

[Steve F]

I find arbors are more personal preference. I like large for more consistent drag pressure, but mid and small arbors have their advantages as well.  The reel will depend more on capacity and your choice of backing and running lines.  If you're looking for 125yds of 20# dacron, 100ft of running line, and a skagit or scandi head, you'd probably be looking for roughly an 8wt reel.  If you already have a reel in that neighborhood, give it a shot first and see how it works.  That will give you an idea of the weight and balance as well.  

[Dalton Terrell]

Steve,

Let us know how the 5wt works out, I actually have that blank laying around the house too.

From my experience with the 7wt, the line recommendations are on the low side. And yes, the rod way more noodly than the TFO Deer Creek but it still takes some grainage to load these up.

Dalton

[Aden]

Thanks Steve. I have an extra spool for my 8 wt and was thinking it might work. I will let everyone know what I find out.

[Steve F]

As far as lines go, they can be a bit tricky to find in the lighter weights if you're looking for skagit or scandi.  I have researched the lines pretty extensively on the lighter blanks, but please take all this with a grain of salt as the epoxy is still drying on my rod. 

For skagit, take a look at the Rio Skagit Short or the old SA Single Hand Skagit.  The Airflo Skagit Compact might be a bit heavy in the smallest size.  
For scandi, again the Airflo Scandi Compact might be heavy so many people overline single hand lines by one or two as Dalton suggests.  From what I've read it seems the best results come with the Wulff Ambush or Rio Outbound lines. 

A note on running lines as well.  If you want to go the shooting head route, many people like to use mono running lines with light switches like Amnesia and Slickshooter for greater distances as the heavier conventional running lines can weigh down the lighter heads.  More control, but less distance.  

And as always, ymmv.  Line weights can vary by individual casting stroke and in this case, how the rod is built.  The amount of epoxy, the length of ferrule and butt wraps, and the type of grip can all attribute to changes in the grain windows.  

[John L III]

If you havent already, you might check the latest rio products line recommendations for that rod
http://www.rioproducts.com/spey-central/spey-line-recommendations/
The RIO AFS is their current Scandi head.
The B is for less technically expert spey casters, although I opted for a 375 gn short skagit (an A recommendation) for my Sage Z-axis 11' 7 wt and it really shoots.
For overhead casting I use a wf 8 wt, as recd by rio. The first time I tried it I was holding the grip just above the reel seat and wound up with a sore arm. For overhead casting hold the top of the grip, making an 11' rod effectively a 9'. But once you learn spey casting you probably won't use it. For closer in quarters like great lakes steelhead fishing I prefer a scandi type line rather than doing overhead casting. I use the skagit with sink tips.

I use a canyon 3 reel, spooled with tuff-line 30 lb as backing. Great stuff, easily holds 200 yds.

hope this helps.

John L

On Wednesday, January 30, 2013 10:32:26 AM UTC-5, Aden wrote: