Kayak Paddle

[Scott Stankus]

I know there are several posts on here specifically about kayaks, but I'm wondering about paddles. My wonderful wife (enabler that she is), got me an inflatable Kayak for Christmas, and I'm planning to get a paddle (and a paddle leash) for it this weekend. The Kayak is the Kwik-Tek Airhead Single Person, and it's my first boat. 

Is there anything that I need to consider when getting a paddle? I plan on using the boat on flat water like Roaches Run and probably on sections of the Potomac - Gravelly Point and Fletcher's.

Any advice on paddle length, design, etc. would be very useful. 

Thanks!

--Scott

================================================

[Jeff Cook]

I'm new to kayaks, but recently went through this.

Here's way more than you probably want to think about...

For length, I used this chart based on height & more.

230cm seems to be pretty standard, though I've seen 200-260. 

http://www.wernerpaddles.com/paddles/touring/performance_core/

As it shows, you need to make a decision about being a high paddler or low (angle to the water),

which is also affected by the width of the kayak. Because inflatables are generally wider

(I have the Advanced Elements Straightedge Angler @ 35"), and because I tend to paddle more vertically,

and I expect to be paddling over a lap full of stuff, I assumed high, and went for the longer size 240cm (I'm 6'1".)

You also have a grip diameter, but I rarely found a choice. 

Some blades have a curve to better scoop the water.

Some blades have a corner cut off, which helps avoid scraping bottom, and may improve stability.

Both of these mean there's only one way to position the paddle, so there may be more fiddling.

Larger blades can tire you out faster, or make short maneuvering more fussy. But nothing says you

have to put the entire blade in the water. 

Two-part paddles can sometimes be adjusted so that the blades are at different angles to each other.

Depending on your stroke, this can reduce fatigue and give you a more natural bite through the water. 

You might have a little collar at the base of the blade to keep water from running down to your hands

on the upstroke, but this doesn't seem to help me much. 

Materials are plastic, fiberglass or carbon finder. Based on material and design,

you can easily spend between $40 - $2000 or more for a paddle. You may decide to add a paddle leash,

though those seem cumbersome. 

Also, a boat friend highly recommends leaving it partially inflated throughout the year,

just enough air to hold its shape. This helps prevent creasing tears from keeping it folded up in a storage bag. 

So yeah, I'm new to kayaks, but I do enjoy the research!

--

Jeff Cook

--
http://www.tpfr.org
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Tidal Potomac Fly Rodders" group.
To post to this group, send email to tidal-potoma...@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to tidal-potomac-fly-...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
 
 

[Brendan]

I'd recommend going cheap at first... should be able to find something useful and reliable under $50.   

find out what you like and don't like, what works with your boat, etc....

unless you're doing longer expeditions and heavy paddling, have found that for poking around and fishing a $40 paddle works as well as a $150 one. 

[Vic Velasco]

One thing that hasn't been mentioned yet is shaft material.  Carbon fiber is slightly lighter, but doesn't transmit heat.  Aluminum is the other material and it will suck the heat right out of your hands.

The width (220, 230, 240, etc) is generally driven by the width of the kayak - basically you don't want to be jamming your knuckles into the gunnels everytime you take a stroke.  I have a JK Big Tuna and at 35" width, I have to use a 240.  

There are several brands - Bending Branches, AT, etc - just google "Kayak Fishing Paddles" and several sites will come up.  Cheap ones (Aluminum Shaft, Plastic paddle heads) should be at or around $100.  The top of the line models (carbon everything) go for $300+

As mentioned by Jeff, make sure to get the ones equipped with paddle rings (rubber rings placed near the paddle heads) - these will "help" to divert the water that the paddle heads pick up during the strokes/recovery.  You will have to adjust the positioning of the rings to make them work well (mine are about 5" from the base of the paddle head).

Most of the decision will be subjective as most of the paddles have subtle differences - with the exception of you being a "high" or "low" paddler.  This determines the shape of the paddle head (low has the skinnier paddle head; high has the wider, shorter heads).

When you go out to find a paddle, don't forget to get a PFD.  

[Brendan]

good pt. on the pdf.... while i recommend going cheap on the paddle at first, spend the extra money to get a nice pdf that you will actually wear. decent ones run from $70 on up... 

a clunky and uncomfortable orange one for $10 won't do much good if you never wear it, and on the rare and unpredictable occasion you'll need a lifejacket, you want to already be wearing it rather than scrambling to grab it and put it on in cold/moving/windy/open water. 

in terms of the paddle... had a carbon blend one which was great but when that disappeared during a move and i replaced it with one that had a cheap aluminium shaft w/ hard plastic blades. really didn't notice enough of a difference to make the additional $100 worth it. when it's cold enough to make the aluminum uncomfortable, i'm usually already wearing gloves or at home. you should be able to find these under $50, tho think the generic brands stop at 230 length so if you need something bigger you'll probably end up paying more for a name brand. 

[Scott Stankus]

Thanks for all the responses! I went to Bass Pro today and picked up a Carlisle Magic paddle for $70. Since I'm only 5'9" tall, I got the 220 cm rather than the 230 cm. I tried a couple, but this one seemed both lightest and most sturdy. 

Now, to try it out...

--Scott

Sent from my iPhone

--
http://www.tpfr.org
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Tidal Potomac Fly Rodders" group.
To post to this group, send email to tidal-potoma...@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to tidal-potomac-fly-...@googlegroups.com.

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/tidal-potomac-fly-rodders/-/4y4fxa23j9MJ.

[Howard A]

This is a little off topic from the paddle, but a few other things I would consider getting, none of which should break the bank: a whistle, preferably a ball-less plastic one that won't rust; a small waterproof first aid kit; a small/medium dry bag; a kayak anchor.

Enjoy the new boat,
Howard

[Scott Stankus]

All excellent suggestions. Getting a whistle hadn't occurred to me (so thanks!), I already have a first aid kit and I got a dry bag today.

As for the anchor, I've heard mixed reviews. I hear they can be dangerous when used in a kayak in moving water. For that reason, I've heard that if you want to use an anchor, you should use something like a rock or a cotton bag of rocks. Something that you wouldn't mind cutting loose if need be.

Is that a serious concern? And I assume it really only applies to moving water?

Thanks.

--Scott

Sent from my iPhone

> --
> http://www.tpfr.org
> ---
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Tidal Potomac Fly Rodders" group.
> To post to this group, send email to tidal-potoma...@googlegroups.com.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to tidal-potomac-fly-...@googlegroups.com.

> To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/tidal-potomac-fly-rodders/-/-6872l8HzMYJ.

[Vic Velasco]

If you don't want to install some form of anchor, you won't have to ability to stay put when you want (or need) to.  Personal preference.

Since you have an inflatable, the anchor hook up is a different beast...

Not only do I have an anchor - I have two (stern is a drag train, bow is a grapple that runs from amidship via an anchor trolley).  Depending on the situation, I can deploy either one or both.  The drag chain (or bag of rocks) allows you to slow your drift and minimizes the chances of the anchor getting snagged.  The grapple (umbrella - the small ones you see in West Marine) allows you stay put (relatively) where you have a mud bottom.  Being able to cut away from either is a safety issue (add a good knife to your list of things to get) but if you rig a crown float (a float with a line attached to the anchor), you can try to recover the anchor later.

So that's all applicable to a hard, sit on top kayak.

For an inflatable, you need to consider the strength of the attachment point - is it a d-ring vulcanized to the vinyl and can it hold up to the pull, it's location on the boat (amidship is not so good - broadside to the current will get ou in trouble faster than bow or stern into the current) and what you would do if you had to cut away.  If you have two d-ring patches (one at the bow and another at the stern) you can rig up an anchor trolley - it makes managing an anchor or a drogue a lot easier.  But if your kayak is a shorter one (less than 10'), you may be able to deal with line management from your seat (my kayak is 14' long and I throw my kids up front when I go out most times- no way I could manage without the trolley).

Kayak rigging (for fishing) can be a whole other (but completely related) addiction - I bolted on 8 attachment points or plates where I can place rod holders for trolling or management while paddling, keep a gps for reference, setup cameras to document the catch and place a signal flag/light so you don't get run over by a motorboat.  I don't mean to make this hardboat oriented, but the only inflatable experience I have is with a standup paddle board (d-rings up front - I can reach the anchor which is a retractable dog leash with a grapple anchor).

On Saturday, December 29, 2012 11:12:28 AM UTC-5, Scott S wrote:

[Matthew Longley]

Cool anchor tip -- get the cheapest rubber boots (online or goodwill) you can find, fill with quik-crete, throw in a eye bolt while its still wet, and you'll have some cheap anchors that won't rip your inflatable and won't break the bank if you have to cut them off.

[Paul]

Awesome tips about the anchor...appreciate the other advice given on kayaks... I will be ready for the Spring.

Next issue....rod holders for a fly rod. Thoughts on ...

http://www.wavewalk.com/Fishing_Kayak_Review_17.html