Leaders for saltwater

[Mike Diakiwsky]

After digging around online for some information on saltwater leaders, I thought I'd ask for the TPFR perspective.  I'm not concerned about tropical destinations or fish like tarpon or bonefish.  I'm talking about the kind of surf fishing we can find within a 3-hour drive (NJ, DE, MD, VA).

I tie my own leaders for trout and I was curious if anyone ties their own salt leaders or had any formulas they'd like to share.  I was also thinking of buying a few knotless, name-brand salt leaders, but I'd like to hear some opinions before making any purchases.  Should I just save that money and get some thicker butt sections for tying my own?  And if I choose to tie my own, what size tippet should I use when chucking average-sized clousers and poppers for whatever fish wants to bite in the surf?  Since inshore game fish vary so much in size, I can't find an easy answer.

Also, any thoughts on wire?  Should I stick with mono/fluoro and hope that a bluefish doesn't shred my line?  Or should I build some wire into my leaders just to be safe?  I know companies like Rio and American Fishing Wire offer some decent options in this regard.

I've got the rod.  I've got the line.  I've got the flies.  But that critical piece of information is still missing - leaders.  Advice and opinions would be great!

[Danny Barrett]

Sorry to be off topic. Ive spent enough money on freshwater leaders. Any suggestions for tying my own?

Danny Barrett

dannyt...@gmail.com
(540) 222-8064

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[Mike Diakiwsky]

Danny - After years of tinkering with tons of different formulas for trout leaders, I've adopted a simple formula where the butt section is always the same and sections beginning at 2x can change depending on the desired length of the leader.  I use Maxima for the butt sections and Rio Powerflex for the rest.  If conditions call for it, I'll use Rio Fluoroflex Plus for my tippet.  90% of the time, I follow this general formula:

No matter how long the leader is, I start with this:
(.017 - 10'') (.015 - 18'') (.013 - 18'') (.010 - 18'')

Then, depending on desired length, I tinker with the rest of the sections.  For this example, let's say we're using a 9'10'' leader w/ 4x tippet.  I'd use:
(2x - 12'') (3x - 18'') (4x - 24'')

Now if I wanted a shorter leader, I'd shorten each of those sections but try to keep them proportional.  Maybe:
(2x - 10'') (3x - 14'') (4x - 20'')

And if I wanted to go longer, I'd lengthen the sections out a bit.  Maybe:
(2x - 14'') (3x - 20'') (4x - 26'')

Some people make hand-tied trout leaders as difficult as rocket science.  After years of thinking that way, I now like to keep it simple.  There are probably leader formulas out there that perform better, but this system has treated me well for the past few years.  If you're really interested in some of the specific leader formulas that were developed by experienced fishermen, google George Harvey or Joe Humphries.  You'll probably find some of their formulas online.  I used those formulas until I simplified everything and went with this new system.  Hope that's enough to get you started.

[Richard Farino]

Pretty simple for saltwater.

 

Fast sinking lines – 1’ of 40lb stiff mono, 3-4’ whatever my terminal tippet will be, usually 20lb fluoro.

Intermediate sinking lines – 1’ 40lb stiff mono, 3-4’ whatever my terminal tippet will be, usually 20lb fluoro.

Floating lines – I usually just buy an 8’ or 9’ leader, but if I build my own, 2’ 40lb stiff mono, step down to 2’ 30lb, and whatever to my tippet, ie: 2’ 20lb, 2’ 16lb for redfish, or 1’ 17lb & 1’ 40lb wire for bluefish.

 

 

R

 

Richard Farino

Urban Angler VA | 108 N. Washington Street  2nd Floor | Alexandria, VA 22314

(703) 527-2524 | fax: (703) 527-3313 | ric...@urbanangler.com

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[Jeff Silvan]

I always purchased leaders and just tied on tippet when I was living on Cape Cod. It was pretty rare that I used wire leader for bluefish. Often times I'd fish both stripers and blues at the same time and the stripers seemed to be more shy about wire leaders. A trick a lot of people used was to just basically use a shock tippet of around 1 or 2 feet of 80lb mono, and that would withstand the bluefish. You do still have to check after every fish for nicks though. 80lb will take a beating and quite a few nicks, but still just be aware of them and replace it when it gets severe.

[HeaveToo]

I have totally switched from using knotted leaders. I have started using pollyleaders such as Airflo.  Since I am in a kayak and it is hard to change lines, I use a few different airflo leaders to cover the water.  I have a floating clear, a moderate sinking, and a depth charge sinking. 

After the pollyleader I put a 4 foot or less tippet on it.  I usually have 1X or 0X for the leader in fluorocarbon.

[Steve F]

Heave -- What's the advantage to using the floating clear polyleader over a standard mono tapered leader for overhead casting?  I was actually researching the difference for spey applications for a new scandi line this morning.

[HeaveToo]

I have gone to it because I find it easier to change tippets when it is time to change them, it is easier to swtich back and forth from floating to sinking in the kayak, and I like how it turns over my fly.  They also virtually disappear in the water.

[ivan sanchez]

 

Easy leader....2'of 40lb att the butt, 2' 0r 3'(depending on how long you want your leader, water clarity will  tell you this) of 30 lb in the middle, and depending on the species you will adjust the diameter of the tippet usually2'of 20lb you can go down as light as you dare, if there are blue fish in the area just have a foot of whatever test tippet rigged to your wire leader usually 3'' to 6'', when the bues start to bite , just tie it on yor leader . For sinking lines is pretty much the same just chop 1' off the butt section...also if you are using an oversized poper this will help to turn it over.

 

On Monday, July 23, 2012 3:10:14 PM UTC-4, Mike Diakiwsky wrote:

[Mike Diakiwsky]

Thanks for the feedback, gents.  For those of you who mentioned a 40 lb. butt section... do you know if there any Rio products that are stiff enough?  I've preferred Maxima and Rio products for the past few years, and I always lean towards Rio when all else is equal because I like the elastic bands and the fact that the spools all snap together.  My Maxima spools are always a tangled disaster inside my vest pockets.  If neither of these brands are ideal, what do you guys use?

[ivan sanchez]

  maxima light green color.....i know the spools are a mess but, for some reason maxima is a bit more abrasion resistant, also i find it more durable against UV and salt water abuse when fishing for many days.

 

On Monday, July 23, 2012 3:10:14 PM UTC-4, Mike Diakiwsky wrote: