Solo rigging?

[Ben]

Using a HD solo rigger, can one person comfortably assemble an Arcus? Have you actually seen it accomplished?

[James Kellerman]

The very idea terrifies me! Show me some pictures of the HD rigger but I doubt I would ever risk it. 

J

On 6 January 2013 15:31, Ben <beens...@gmail.com> wrote:

Using a HD solo rigger, can one person comfortably assemble an Arcus? Have you actually seen it accomplished?

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A James Kellerman

GMC2212423

[the_gle...@msn.com]

I have an IMI rigger - I would say as riggers go it is not bad, and it fits the wing reasonably well. For what it is worth I happily rig my ASH26 on my own using a rigger.

 

I have so far only rigged the Arcus twice, using the rigger but with 4 people! I find it hard to imagine rigging safely with less than 2 people. As has been my experience when rigging Duo's, I have found it difficult to get the second wing in the last half inch. Personally, if I get to be able to rig with 2 people I will be very happy.

 

I am interested to know whether others rig and derig on a daily basis. I am planning to leave the Arcus rigged for the summer; I don't have the use of a hangar but do have covers.

 

Mark Burton

[Philip Walker]

We have our Arcus T in a Tee Hangar and it is rigged/derigged only 3 or 4 times a year when being trailered. 

As a general rule we use 4 people to rig/derig - it's quicker and less chance of a problem. It is sometimes tricky with the second wing, needs to loosen up a little!

Schempp rigged the prototype with two (experienced/tall) staff efficiently

Solo rigging might just be OK on a hard smooth surface but I wouldn't want to try it on our soft and uneven grass!

[Dave Nadler]

On Sunday, January 6, 2013 at 10:31:07 AM UTC-5, Ben wrote:

Using a HD solo rigger, can one person comfortably assemble an Arcus? Have you actually seen it accomplished?

I have been solo rigging my ArcusM with no problem, however...

1) The wing dolly saddle must be low to the ground when receiving the wing from the trailer.
Otherwise, you will need to lift the wing high which is dangerous:
- the anti-tip gadget in the Cobra wing dolly holds the leading-edge pin only when the wing is low
- because of the wing shape you might be lifting 45 kg really high!

2) tip the fuselage towards the wing you are inserting.
This keeps the wingtip at a nice manageable height.
After first wing inserted, lift the 1rst wing very high so the 2nd wing is comfortable.

3) After inserting first wing, tape it. Keeps it from popping out much
better than wing pin partially inserted (and doesn't break baggage shelf).

4) Align the 2nd wing root PERFECTLY with the pin from the first.
Don't even think about pushing 2nd wing in until pin points exactly
to center of bushing in 2nd wing's root. Then 2nd wing goes in easy.

Very easy and fast! Really! On pavement or grass!
I will certainly need a safety person if it is windy, but in normal conditions
solo is no problem.

One more note: I modified my IMI rigger as follows:
a) Shortened base and top main tubes to get the wing saddle low
    enough to easily receive the wing from the trailer.
b) Added an internal electric drive with remote control (height only), so
    I can easily adjust the height until pins align perfectly.
I have provided all the engineering info to Jan Kantor (IMI) and he plans
to offer this; not sure if it will be just like mine. Jan was very helpful
and encouraged me to make these mods.

Hope that helps!
Best Regards, Dave

[Dave Nadler]

On Sunday, January 6, 2013 at 10:31:07 AM UTC-5, Ben wrote:

Using a HD solo rigger, can one person comfortably assemble an Arcus?
Have you actually seen it accomplished?

 
Per my notes above, I've solo-assembled Arcus now around a dozen times.
After a number of requests Nico made a video.
Sorry I was a bit slow - too much 'help'.

Also, I need a good way of lining up the wing without several tries.
Perhaps a string guide from tailwheel and fuselage dolly to mark wing dolly target?

Anyway, enjoy:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JEUQLSgUpoY&feature=youtu.be

The IMI wing dolly with these modifications should be available from IMI;
order "Arcus wing dolly with Nadler's electric mods".

Best Regards, Dave "YO"

[Mark B]

Well, thanks a lot for that video Dave, I have enjoyed watching it and I think I will find some aspects helpful.

I have a standard IMI rigger (as I think I mentioned earlier in the thread) with standard height and spring based height adjustment. As it happens, I have rarely used it, because it is so much quicker to do a 4 person rig carrying the wing - and I generally leave the glider out rigged under covers. Also, there isn't room in the trailer for the rigging aid, so it is generally in my garage at home!

I am not convinced that all of your 'special bits' are important to making the rig work - although without them I would always need at least two people involved in rigging. I always rig with the fuselage level, and the height of the wings does not seem to be a real problem with the tip brackets which come down a little lower than the tip. The spring in the (appropriate version) standard IMI rigger balances the weight of the wing very effectively, so that one person at the tip can move it up and down. You would want a second person to lock it in the chosen position - and I need a second person to help when lowering the rigger to the bottom after taking it off the first wing to use for the second wing. I have my second person stand by the rigging aid while bringing the wing out of the trailer (that way I do not need the bungy) and to walk by the rigging aid while I am wheeling the wing from the root for extra stability.

To initially position the wing backwards/forwards, I try to make a mark in the grass straight out from the fuselage root socket before pulling the wing out of the trailer. To make coarse adjustments of the wing position after inserting the root into the fuselage I lift the tip high enough to lift the rigger off the ground and let me move the wing backwards or forwards. This seems much quicker than pulling the wing out and wheeling the rigger to a new position.

What I am very bad at is getting the second wing the last inch in. I have generally needed three people waggling and pushing at the tip to achieve this. I hope that your illustration of getting the pins exactly lined up will help me do this bit more easily - whether rigging with the rigging aid or the traditional way.

I always use a helper when attaching the tips and the tailplane. Do you do those bits on your own? Do you rig the Arcus each day you fly (if so, that might be why your wings go together quite easily!)?

By the way, as also mentioned earlier, I was quite happy to rig my ASH 26E on my own using a motorised Cobra rigging aid. When I bought the Arcus I spoke to Cobra about a rigging aid, and they said they did not intend to make one for the Arcus because they did not think it would be sufficiently stable for the Arcus wing. Using the IMI rigger I do not think there is a significant stability issue. I do not know whether Cobra have subsequently started to offer one.

Thanks again for the effort of making the video,

Mark Burton Arcus M s/no 24, GKFVG/4M, London Gliding Club, UK

[Dave Nadler]

Thanks Mark.

I sometimes fly my ArcusM by myself, and I always need to assemble.
Often I give rides to non-glider folks, and I assemble before they arrive.
No hangar available at my home airport (where I'm the only glider).
Even when other people are around, I find it much easier to do myself.
Hence the chocks and bungy are absolutely required.

I've had terrible trouble with 'help', like the guy in the video who
kept grabbing the wing. Twice in years past I've got a back injury
when someone grabbed the wing-tip! Usually if someone wants to
help I assign them the task of making absolutely sure nobody gets
close or touches the wing.

I'm going to try make a string-gauge to give me a target for the
wing dolly. Getting the wing positioned correctly first try should
speed things up considerably.

Thanks,
Best Regards, Dave

[Mark B]

Understand your reasons for working without a helper. Also completely agree about keeping well-meaning folk away from the tip while you are managing the wing from the root. If you design a successful guide for correctly positioning the rigger I look forward to seeing a photo. Thanks.

[Kees Van Schaick]

Hi all,

Very interesting to see and read about your rigging ideas. I use a one-man rigging solution made by GEBU (http://gebutrailer.nl), which has a bespoke, custom-made wingshell precisely fitting the Arcus wing. However, not an electric actuator which I am now considering seeing Dave's video.

From this suplier/glider pilot I received once the following advice:

When trying to figure out the correct position of the wing (still standing in the rigging cart) relative to the fuselage, just align a line (the side of a tape) put on the wing root spar with the fuselage fairing. When these are parallel to each other, then turn the wing just outside the fuselage, insert the wing in the fuselage and it will fit perfectly. Yes, you still need to drive a bit around but you have a precise measurement just before you insert the wing. The plastic tape or something else you bring on the wing spar the first time you derig by taking out the wing, turn it on its side, all close by the fuselage.

Dave, if you could send me some details on the actuator (make, brand) you used that would be great. On the subject of the video, 2 questions:

- why landing flaps (I know, this is prescribed in the manual; I prefer flaps neutral)?

- why do you keep the Cobra aileron/flap holders (with the elastic band around the wing) on during rigging? Does that help in any way rigging?

thanks Kees

Op zondag 6 januari 2013 16:31:07 UTC+1 schreef Ben:

[Dave Nadler]

On Monday, August 29, 2016 at 4:13:34 AM UTC-4, Kees Van Schaick wrote:

...When trying to figure out the correct position of the wing (still standing in the rigging cart) relative to the fuselage, just align a line (the side of a tape) put on the wing root spar with the fuselage fairing. When these are parallel to each other, then turn the wing just outside the fuselage, insert the wing in the fuselage and it will fit perfectly. Yes, you still need to drive a bit around but you have a precise measurement just before you insert the wing. The plastic tape or something else you bring on the wing spar the first time you derig by taking out the wing, turn it on its side, all close by the fuselage.

That looks helpful - I will copy the markings from your photos.
Also I will make a string gauge to place a mark on the ground for the wing dolly position.
Too much 'driving around'!

 

Dave, if you could send me some details on the actuator (make, brand) you used that would be great. On the subject of the video, 2 questions:

I will find it and email to you.

 

- why landing flaps (I know, this is prescribed in the manual; I prefer flaps neutral)?

Only because manual says use Landing position.
 

- why do you keep the Cobra aileron/flap holders (with the elastic band around the wing) on during rigging? Does that help in any way rigging?

I do leave them on but I think it makes absolutely no difference.


Thanks for the suggestions!
Best Regards, Dave

[Mark]

Regarding leaving the "gust lock" on the wing during rigging/derigging.  If not left on, there is the chance that the aileron could deflect far enough downward that the underside mylar pops free and tries to reposition itself on top of the upper mylar....  if not noticed and the aileron is later raised, you could damage the mylars...

[Dave Nadler]

On Monday, September 5, 2016 at 4:08:21 PM UTC-4, Mark wrote:

Regarding leaving the "gust lock" on the wing during rigging/derigging: 

If not left on, there is the chance that the aileron could deflect far enough downward that
the underside mylar pops free and tries to reposition itself on top of the upper mylar.... 
if not noticed and the aileron is later raised, you could damage the mylars...

Good to know, I'll continue leaving the lock in place while rigging.
Thanks!
Best Regards, Dave

[Mark B]

About having the flap lever in L, and the 'gust locks' (I call them aileron locks).

I had guessed that the reason for putting the flap lever in L was because you would insert the wing without the locks in place and the flaperon would have dropped to a low position, I was therefore surprised at the combination of locks on/flap lever in L.

I have always fitted the locks on the root end, in which case they have to come off before inserting the wing root to the fuselage. I have always rigged with the locks removed and the flap lever in L. I have not noticed any damage to the mylar.

I will try to be more observant about the flap position and the mylar next time I rig (probably at the weekend). 

Thanks for all the interesting input.

Mark Burton, Arcus M no 24 UK Comp no 4M

[Roger.D]

This is an important matter. Probably not an issue with factory installed mylar but maybe more possibly a problem in the case of later year replacement of the mylar.

At extreme control deflection, the mylar on the control surface must not be able to escape the mylar on the wing/fin/stabiliser. I seem to recall a double fatal accident in the Netherlands many years ago with a Janus sailplane where on approach to land sufficient down elevator was applied such that the mylar on the upperside of the elevator slid out from underneath the mylar from the stabiliser upper surface.  Subsequent return of the elevator to neutral or up elevator caused the mylar on the elevator to be forced up and it stood up sufficient to ruin the airflow and lead to loss of elevator authority.

As I say to pilots I am training to be Daily Inspectors of sailplanes, the price of all this fancy sealing is eternal vigilance.
Kind regards froma far.
Roger Druce (S/N 028)

And that reminds me, has any had the experience of the insulation in the engine bay at the front at the join between the front wall and the starboard side wall ballooning off the surface?  I have this issue and at this point in time I have yet to find a real cause.  Something has pressurised the aluminium covered insulation to separate from and push off the wall.  I still have to get into the area behind the wheel box and change the filters, and in doing that I will check if there is something strange on the forward side of the engine box.
Ahhh, the joys of an Arcus M ...
Roger

On 6/09/2016 6:08 AM, Mark wrote:

Regarding leaving the "gust lock" on the wing during rigging/derigging.  If not left on, there is the chance that the aileron could deflect far enough downward that the underside mylar pops free and tries to reposition itself on top of the upper mylar....  if not noticed and the aileron is later raised, you could damage the mylars...

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[Dave Nadler]

On Monday, September 5, 2016 at 1:44:55 PM UTC-4, Dave Nadler wrote:

On Monday, August 29, 2016 at 4:13:34 AM UTC-4, Kees Van Schaick wrote:

...When trying to figure out the correct position of the wing (still standing in the rigging cart) relative to the fuselage, just align a line (the side of a tape) put on the wing root spar with the fuselage fairing. When these are parallel to each other, then turn the wing just outside the fuselage, insert the wing in the fuselage and it will fit perfectly. Yes, you still need to drive a bit around but you have a precise measurement just before you insert the wing. The plastic tape or something else you bring on the wing spar the first time you derig by taking out the wing, turn it on its side, all close by the fuselage.

That looks helpful - I will copy the markings from your photos.
Also I will make a string gauge to place a mark on the ground for the wing dolly position.
Too much 'driving around'!

I tried Kees' alignment tapes, but still too much "driving around" to find the correct position.
So I made a string-gauge with a target.
One string hooks to the tail wheel.
Second string hooks to the fuselage jack.
Target is positioned by the strings.
Place the vertical member of the wing-rigger over the target,
then rotate into position and everything is properly aligned.
No more "driving around"!
Looks a bit silly but greatly speeds solo assembly.

Hope that helps!
Best Regards, Dave


 

 

[Dave Nadler]

My one-man rigger (discussed and pictured here) is for sale:
As I used to rig my ArcusM Solo for 2.5 seasons.
Fits ASG-32 fine (has been used for ASG-32).
Asking $1300 plus shipping, includes battery charger + 3 remotes.
Power up-down (remote controlled), manual fore-aft.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JEUQLSgUpoY&t=682s
New IMI from Wings&Wheels is $2060 plus shipping.
Thanks,
Best Regards, Dave

PS: Requires a different wing collar to use this with other than Arcus or ASG-32.

Including shipping from W&W, these cost:
$400 Duo or other two-seater
$350 single-seater

[Mark B]

Dave, your experience was obviously awful. Is there anything about it that other Arcus M owners should know?

[Dave Nadler]

On Thursday, November 29, 2018 at 1:42:41 PM UTC-5, Mark B wrote:

Dave, your experience was obviously awful.
Is there anything about it that other Arcus M owners should know?

Unfortunately, almost no progress on finding out what happened to the glider.
Anything more at this stage is speculation, helpful to nobody, and counter-productive.
If and when I can say anything helpful, you can be certain I will!

[Mark B]

Dave, understood, thanks.

[Dave Nadler]

On Saturday, November 24, 2018 at 9:47:53 AM UTC-5, Dave Nadler wrote:

My one-man rigger (discussed and pictured here) is for sale...

Sold.