Cheap wax remover
Stephen R Daniels
Solvent at outrageous prices and I was wondering if, for example, it is not
the same stuff that Park Tools sells as bicycle chain cleaner. It sure smells
like it. Both are pretty potent degreasers claiming environmental friendliness
but the chain cleaner costs less for a much bigger bottle.
If anyone has some insider info that could shed some light, I'm interested.
I wonder what sorts of solvents actually damage polyethelene bases and if
Swix, Titab, Start, etc. actually engineer their products to be safe in this
regard.
-Steve
_______________________________________________________________________________
S. Daniels
U of W - Waterloo, Ontario
Eric Harvey
: Are there any substitutes for commercial wax remover? Swix is selling Citrus
: the same stuff that Park Tools sells as bicycle chain cleaner. It sure smells
: like it. Both are pretty potent degreasers claiming environmental friendliness
: but the chain cleaner costs less for a much bigger bottle.
: If anyone has some insider info that could shed some light, I'm interested.
: I wonder what sorts of solvents actually damage polyethelene bases and if
: Swix, Titab, Start, etc. actually engineer their products to be safe in this
: regard.
I have been using citrus degreasers designed for bicycle use to clean my
skiis with no adverse effects. I prefer them because I can buy them much
cheaper from my cycling team's sponsoring shop than I could hope to buy an
equivalent amount of ski-specific solvent. One of my favourites is
Finish Line's Citrus Degreaser, which comes in a spray bottle, probably
about $12.00 retail at your LBS (local bike store).
Eric.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Eric Harvey email: eha...@med.phys.ualberta.ca
Dept. of Medical Physics phone: (403)492-8737
Cross Cancer Institute fax: (403)492-8202
11560 University Avenue
Edmonton, Alberta
T6G 1Z2
William Claspy
SRDA...@MECHANICAL.uwaterloo.ca (Stephen R Daniels) wrote:
> Are there any substitutes for commercial wax remover? Swix is selling Citrus
> Solvent at outrageous prices and I was wondering if, for example, it is not
> the same stuff that Park Tools sells as bicycle chain cleaner. It sure smells
> like it. Both are pretty potent degreasers claiming environmental
friendliness
> but the chain cleaner costs less for a much bigger bottle.
> If anyone has some insider info that could shed some light, I'm interested.
> I wonder what sorts of solvents actually damage polyethelene bases and if
> Swix, Titab, Start, etc. actually engineer their products to be safe in this
> regard.
>
> -Steve
I use the plain old CitruSolve, don't remember where I got it, but it was
*way* cheaper than the Swix stuff. Works just fine, too. Don't know
about the base damaging aspect, though...
Bill
--
William Claspy
w...@po.cwru.edu
mnewell@alaska.net@alaska.net
I've used lighter fluid to clean skis and it works but it dries out the base to much
I believe. I've also heard of people using dry cleaner fluid, but it is a nasty chemical
and not good for the environment. I think the citrus bike chain degreaser and wax
remover are close to the same thing. I'm interested allso if anyone else knows.
Tim Dudley
>
> I've used lighter fluid to clean skis and it works but it dries out the
> base to much I believe. I've also heard of people using dry cleaner
> fluid, but it is a nasty chemical and not good for the environment. I
> think the citrus bike chain degreaser and wax remover are close to
> the same thing. I'm interested allso if anyone else knows.
The cheapest and most effective way I've found to remove wax (except for
klister) is to use an iron and fiberlene. Heat the wax to melting, and
just wipe it off.
Tim
--
email: dudle...@xerox.com
David Tan
Tim Dudley <dudle...@xerox.com> wrote:
>>>>>[ stuff about CitraSolve]
>
>The cheapest and most effective way I've found to remove wax (except for
>klister) is to use an iron and fiberlene. Heat the wax to melting, and
>just wipe it off.
But wax is the easy stuff! I used to use a torch for klister, which
works but is dangerous; now I'm looking for a better way.
Has anyone tried Pine-Sol (got this idea from the bike net)? Chemically
the active ingredients of Pine-Sol and CitraSolve are similar (isoprenoid
terpenes, for those who care.) Hot klister sure smells piney; would
like dissolve like? And just as importantly, does it damage bases?
Dave Tan
Jay Wenner
: In article <dudley.chi-19...@47.214.161.110>,
: Dave Tan
A small bottle of citrus wax remover is what, $8. This ought to last
me about 4 years. If you're into production line waxing, maybe you can
try a more generic citrus solvent. My local ski shop (lss) has been
ordering (I believe it's called orange solvent) solvent for that purpose
from a dental supply company.
There's lots of solvents that will remove wax, but I think citrus solvent
is used because it fairly clean (doesn't leave a residue), is not
too powerful (as to completely remove oils from your hands) and in not too
toxic (as far as I know). If you want some "good" wax remover, we have
some spectroscopic grade xylenes and toluene in the lab that we're trying
to pawn off to any willing taker. If you look these up in the Merck index
I bet they also are either known or suspected carcinogens.
Jay (how's your DNA these days) Wenner
Scott Elliot
>
> In article <dudley.chi-19...@47.214.161.110>,
> Tim Dudley <dudle...@xerox.com> wrote:
> >>>>>[ stuff about CitraSolve]
> >
> >The cheapest and most effective way I've found to remove wax (except for
> >klister) is to use an iron and fiberlene. Heat the wax to melting, and
> >just wipe it off.
>
> But wax is the easy stuff! I used to use a torch for klister, which
> works but is dangerous; now I'm looking for a better way.
>
> Has anyone tried Pine-Sol (got this idea from the bike net)? Chemically
> the active ingredients of Pine-Sol and CitraSolve are similar (isoprenoid
> terpenes, for those who care.) Hot klister sure smells piney; would
> like dissolve like? And just as importantly, does it damage bases?
Try a heat gun, one of the kind made for stripping paint and a putty knife.
The heat gun is also great for putting klister on and a lot less likely to
damage your base than a torch.
I usually use a paint gun and putty knife or spatula to clean most of the wax
or klister off, then finish with a little commercial wax remover and an
industrial paper towel. That way a can of wax remover lasts a long time to
why take chances with some product that wasn't developed specifically for ski
bases. With the cost of skis, I'm willing to pay a few cents more for wax
remover if there is any chance of doing damage.
The only problem is some races are held at sites that still don't have
electrical plug-ins. Maybe we'll all have to invest in portable generators.
Regards,
Scott Elliot
Kelowna, B.C.
Pete Hickey
>Has anyone tried Pine-Sol (got this idea from the bike net)? Chemically
>the active ingredients of Pine-Sol and CitraSolve are similar (isoprenoid
>terpenes, for those who care.) Hot klister sure smells piney; would
>like dissolve like? And just as importantly, does it damage bases?
>
No, but here's one test you can do. Put a few drops on a piece of
glass and let it dry. Does it leave a residue? If so, that residue
will remain in your base.
--
Pete Hickey | |
Communication Services | Pe...@mudhead.uottawa.CA | "Take off your shoes....
University of Ottawa | | .... for industry!"
Ottawa,Ont. Canada K1N 6N5| (613) 562-5800x1008 |
P.C.T. de Boer
supermarkets at less than two dollars for 4 large bars. After ironing it
onto the dirty base, it should be scraped off while still warm. This will
remove all foreign materials, including kick wax, klister, pine residue,
dirt, etc. By using this method, the base never gets into contact with
cleaning materials that tend to make it slower. After cleaning the waxing
pocket this way, kick wax will stick very well.
This method is recommended by many wax manufacturers,except that they
suggest you use one of their expensive softer waxes. In fact, the parafine
is a great glide wax over a fairly wide range of warmer temperatures. The
parafine is also great for covering the base during the summer, to prevent
oxidation.
Tob de Boer
Ithaca, New York
MJB99
and seems to evaporate with no residue - fast. It probably dries out the
p-tex, but its cheap and effective (about $4.50/gallon). Obviously, its
extremely flamable and should be used in a well ventilated place.
U52...@uicvm.uic.edu
area before adding p-tex. I bought a bottle for $1.29. Says it contains
Naptha and "excellent for removing grease, oil stains, tar, & labels". It
smells just like my $8.00 can of commercial ski wax remover. BUT I do not
know its effect on the ski base strength. It does clean up just as well as the
commercial stuff.
They key might be its effect on the ski base. I assume that the base is some
sort of polymer. Could it be bad for the durability of the base? Maybe, I once
worked with another polymer, polyester resin. I wanted to thin it and
considered using acetone to thin it out since that seemed somewhat like paint
thinner. BUT I discovered that Acetone works by breaking down the polymer,
so I would end up with very weak resin. Thus like acetone, lighter fluid will
do the intended job, but what is the effect on the base? Bob.
KMyersML
Works like charm! Stinks! Hurts you skin and is HIGHLY flammable!
KMyersML
local nordic center's lodge! For REAL ski waxing - especially when you're,
say outside - on a backcountry trip - you already have some type of gas
with you anyway - so what's wrong with using it? It WORKS really well -
have been using it for 30 years! Guess when you're in cyberspace you never
know how someone might take valuable advise. DON'T TRY THIS INDOORS! -
better?
Mitch Collinsworth
>I've always been into GASOLINE! Keep it in a backpacking SIGG bottle.
>Works like charm! Stinks! Hurts you skin and is HIGHLY flammable!
VERY STUPID PRACTICE. Don't do this at home. You DON'T want gasoline
fumes floating around your house. And noone wants them floating around
your local ski center's lodge either.
KMyersML
Just got some flack from someone who thold me I was STUPID!
Sorta thought this was supposed to be a friendly newsgroup!
To each, his own!
Happy Trails
U52...@uicvm.uic.edu
Wax remover flammability survey:
1. Gasoline - yep.
2. Lighter fluid - yep.
3. A popular commerical WAX REMOVER: - probably.
the can says: "DANGER: Keep away from open flame or spark."
and it smells just like my lighter fluid w/ NAPHTHA.
Bob.
Pete Hickey
KMyersML <kmye...@aol.com> wrote:
>.....
>say outside - on a backcountry trip - you already have some type of gas
>with you anyway - so what's wrong with using it? It WORKS really well -
>have been using it for 30 years! Guess when you're in cyberspace you never
>know how someone might take valuable advise. DON'T TRY THIS INDOORS! -
>better?
What about when you get some of the gas on your bare hands?
Isn't that sort of like instant frostbite? It makes my hands
ache just thinking about it.
-Pete
David A. Southard
Like the old-style ski-wax removers, it is clear and evaporates leaving
no residue. Cost is about $2 per quart at your local hardware store.
Newer formulations claim to be "environmentally friendly", but this must be a
relative comparison at best! Certainly it is *much* less toxic and less
flammable (though, still) than gasoline.
As with any petroleum product (including ski wax itself!), I agree with all
precautions: use in a well-ventilated
area, avoid breathing vapors, and avoid contact with skin.
--
David A. Southard | Principal Engineer
sout...@mitre.org | The MITRE Corporation
617-271-7425 (voice) | 202 Burlington Road
617-271-2964 (facsimile ) | Bedford MA 01730-1420
HTM.Koehle...@magnet.at
your idea sounds good but it is incompatible with the chemistry of current
running bases. The use of such solvents might also damage several other
materials used with your ski.
Stay with the recommended wax removers. Might be the cheaper solution long
term thinking.
regards,
fritz
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