Tech: need Bally Aid kit or Aid1
Jerry Stiller
Dave Rivett wrote:
>
> I am trying to restore a couple of Bally pins and could use the Bally
> diagnostic modules aid1 and aid2. I have the schematic for the aid2 and
> can build it myself if necessary, but haven't been able to find a reference
> for the aid1. I would appreciate any help on locating the modules, or a
> schematic for the aid1. Thanks
> Dave
> Old...@Islandnet.com
>
> In a corrupt republic vice increased, and laws were multiplied.
> Tacitus, Annals III 27
Marco Specialties sells similar boards by the Pinball Lizard for $99.
They are at http://magenta.com/marco.hardware last time I looked.
Hope this is some help. If you do find a schematic for both, please
let me know. I would like to build them too, if I can for a lot less
than $99.
--
_/_/_/_/_/ _/_/_/ Jerry Stiller
_/ _/ sti...@ti.com
_/ _/ 972-952-5293
_/ _/_/_/ 972-442-2012
David Gray
In article <333d493...@NEWS.islandnet.com>, Old...@Islandnet.com (Dave
Rivett) wrote:
> I am trying to restore a couple of Bally pins and could use the Bally
> diagnostic modules aid1 and aid2. I have the schematic for the aid2 and
> can build it myself if necessary, but haven't been able to find a reference
> for the aid1. I would appreciate any help on locating the modules, or a
> schematic for the aid1. Thanks
I have an AID 1 (AS-2892) and an AID-2 (AS-2892-1) and the original manual
that was packaged with them (FO 560-3). What are they worth?
David Gray
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Due to recent budget reductions all funding for smoke has been eliminated.
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The above opinions and statements are my own and therefore do necessarily
represent the opinions of Two-Bit Pinballs.
Rod Onotera
Dave Rivett wrote:
> What the aid1 looks like I have no idea. The aid2 consists of a 28
> connector molex connector part #22-01-2281 (KK100 series) with 1.2k
> resistors connected to the first 23 pins. The resistors must be
> installed such that a clip lead can be connedted to them between the
> resistor and the connector. These resistors are tied together with a
> clip lead so that they can all be connected at the same time to ground
> or +5v. Pin 24 is connected to two clip leads, the first is connected
> to ground, and the second is used to ground the connections between
> the connector and the resistors. The finished connector goes on J5 on
> the mpu module. I estimate the parts would cost about $5-10, and
> about an hour to build it.
Hi Dave;
How about a schematic? Perhaps a dreaded ASCII picture or better still a
bitmap that you could attach to an Email. I for one would very
appreciative.
--
Rod from the middle of the Great White North
rono...@infobahn.mb.ca
TCalla7290
Why? Neither one will tell you what is wrong with a Bally MPU. A logic
probe, digital VOM and clean, readable set of schematics are all you will
EVER need to fix this system. Take it from someone that has fixed over a
thousand mpu's and never used (my) bally aid kits. They are a waste of
time. If the mpu is locked up with stuck address/ data lines, no 'clip on'
kit will tell you WHERE those stuck lines are on the board. A logic
probe/ vom will. Give me some symptoms and maybe I can help. The Repair
Connection TRC
Pistol Pete
He's right... I've found the same to be true!
'Pistol Pete'
Ken Huber
TCalla7290 <tcall...@aol.com> wrote in article
<19970402033...@ladder01.news.aol.com>...
> Why? Neither one will tell you what is wrong with a Bally MPU. A logic
> probe, digital VOM and clean, readable set of schematics are all you will
> EVER need to fix this system. Take it from someone that has fixed over a
> thousand mpu's and never used (my) bally aid kits. They are a waste of
> time. If the mpu is locked up with stuck address/ data lines, no 'clip
on'
> kit will tell you WHERE those stuck lines are on the board. A logic
> probe/ vom will. Give me some symptoms and maybe I can help. The Repair
> Connection TRC
>
I have a board that boots with 7 flashes for the very first attempt of the
day (then locks), then after that 'sticks' ie stays lit on the third flash
for any other attempt. I have replaced all the socketed ICs (except for
the program ROMs) and U17, U18, and U19. I'm not sure what to try next.
Is the program ROM bad? I might try swapping the 5101RAM with a 2101 and
see if that make any difference. Any ideas?
klh
Mike
On 2 Apr 1997 08:33:02 -0700, "Ken Huber" <hub...@primenet.com> wrote:
>I have a board that boots with 7 flashes for the very first attempt of the
>day (then locks), then after that 'sticks' ie stays lit on the third flash
>for any other attempt. I have replaced all the socketed ICs (except for
>the program ROMs) and U17, U18, and U19. I'm not sure what to try next.
>Is the program ROM bad? I might try swapping the 5101RAM with a 2101 and
>see if that make any difference. Any ideas?
Some varieties of PIA (6821) can cause this behavior (going to seven
flashes then not working). If you can switch brands or steal one from
an old board, that would eliminate this as a cause. I'd also suspect
maybe a different brand of 5101 might be worth a try.
Mike
Pistol Pete
Ken Huber wrote:
---edited---
>
> klh
Check the socket for the 5101 and the 6821 at the bottom of the board.
Alkalia that leaks from the nicad battery will eat the pins right out of
the sockets, causing an intermittent connection. Any vibration will
cause a loss of contact of sufficient duration to crash the game
program. If I find electrolyte damage on the board I make it a point to
change the sockets.
'Pistol Pete'
John Robertson
Dave Rivett wrote:
>
> >Why? Neither one will tell you what is wrong with a Bally MPU. A logic
Hi, guy!
Well when you bring yourself to the shop on tuesday, haul that board
along, I have a STERN test fixture and we will pin down the problem...
But I don't think the AID 1 would help when you get the seven flashes
and the game just freezes up at that point. There are a couple of things
to check. First, is the game a multiball ball game? Stern pins (their
early multiballs) will NOT start/light up without the balls in the
bottom waiting on the trough switches! Now if the game has, say, a blown
playfield fuse, then you would not see the game cycling the outholes to
get the balls into the bottom. Otherwise you might have a bad cmos ram,
the upper one is not really tested by the power up self test. The test
was stolen from BALLY and I don't think that they upgraded it when they
went to the pair of 5101's for added bookeeping storage....
:-#)#
--
(Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) | John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St.
VOICE (604)872-5757 FAX 872-2010| Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
mailto:j...@flippers.com | http://www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
Clive Jones
In article <5ia0g0$m...@news.istar.ca>, John Robertson <"pin...@istar.ca
jrr"@flippers.com> writes
>Dave Rivett wrote:
>>
>> >Why? Neither one will tell you what is wrong with a Bally MPU. A logic
>> >probe, digital VOM and clean, readable set of schematics are all you ...
>Hi, guy!
>Well when you bring yourself to the shop on tuesday, haul that board
>along, I have a STERN test fixture and we will pin down the problem...
>But I don't think the AID 1 would help when you get the seven flashes
>and the game just freezes up at that point. There are a couple of things
>to check. First, is the game a multiball ball game? Stern pins (their
>early multiballs) will NOT start/light up without the balls in the
>bottom waiting on the trough switches! Now if the game has, say, a blown
>playfield fuse, then you would not see the game cycling the outholes to
>get the balls into the bottom. Otherwise you might have a bad cmos ram,
>the upper one is not really tested by the power up self test. The test
>was stolen from BALLY and I don't think that they upgraded it when they
>went to the pair of 5101's for added bookeeping storage....
>:-#)#
As a side issue: I've always wondered why the ROM checksum test wasn't
implemented for the Squawk and Talk module since a similar test already
existed with the Bally MPU modules?
Maybe it's implemented but not displayed?
Clive
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