OT-Dry Well Problems
Gunner ©
as well...But.. the dry well is not draining any longer. Its 20+ feet
deep, perforated 6" PVC at the bottom end, packed with gravel to the
surface. The surrounding soil in the area is hard packed sand/hardpan,
and the system has been in use for 12 yrs. The tank was pretty full when
it was pumped (850gal) and I believe sludge went into the dry well.
Running the washer causes the septic tank (buried 4' deep) to bubble up
above the tank, then quickly seep back into the soil.
Any one have any ideas of how to unplug or "fracture" the bottom end of
a dry well to restore the drainage? Im sure the substructure is filled
with soap scum as the roommates were using the wrong soap in the washer
etc. Ground water is around 350-400' down, so contamination is not a
concern..
Will 5 gallons of a strong lye or caustic soda mixture poured dircectly
down the dry well do the trick? Any hints or ideas would be greatly
appreciated. The top of the dry well is easy to get at.. when I
installed the tank and well, I put everything in boxes for ease of
servicing.
Gunner
"Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines."
Tto...@ix.netcom.com
several things nothing worked, just had to install a new one. But the water
table here in the winter gets to 12". All those wells just seem to go all at
once.
Code wont allow them to be that deep here. PNW
TT
Craig C.
>I had exactly the same problem for my gray water system dry well. I tried=
>
>several things nothing worked, just had to install a new one. But the wat=
>er
>table here in the winter gets to 12". All those wells just seem to go all=
> at
>once.
>Code wont allow them to be that deep here. PNW
>TT
>
>Gunner =A9 wrote:
>
>> I had my $eptic tank pumped a month ago.. and they pumped the dry well
>> as well...But.. the dry well is not draining any longer. Its 20+ feet
>> deep, perforated 6" PVC at the bottom end, packed with gravel to the
>> surface. The surrounding soil in the area is hard packed sand/hardpan,
>> and the system has been in use for 12 yrs. The tank was pretty full whe=
If you end up having to replace it, look at converting your system to
anerobic...one more tank, a pump. a small air compressor and a couple
of spary heads......no more problems....It would probably cost about
the same as replacing the dry well alone.
Craig C.
jim rozen
Nick Hull wrote:
> Before I abandoned a drywell, I would at least try a high energy
> solution.
LOL. I would get a large umbrella before doing this - a close aquaintance
shot a water well this way, and the column of water rose quite some
impressive distance up in the air.
Does the term 'shit storm' apply here?
Jim
joet
>
>
> Nick Hull wrote:
>
> > Before I abandoned a drywell, I would at least try a high energy
> > solution.
>
> LOL. I would get a large umbrella before doing this - a close aquaintance
> shot a water well this way, and the column of water rose quite some
> impressive distance up in the air.
Cool aquatechnics are just a bonus! Did it work?
--
+---- joe tomkowitz ----+ When something doesn't work, really force it
| jo...@jtcs.net | because maybe it'll go. And if it doesn't
| http://www.jtcs.net | or if it breaks, you needed to fix it anyway.
+-----------------------+ -my dad, ca. 1970
Nick Hull
> I had exactly the same problem for my gray water system dry well. I tried=
>
> several things nothing worked, just had to install a new one. But the wat=
> er
> table here in the winter gets to 12". All those wells just seem to go all=
> at
> once.
before I abandoned a drywell, I would at least try a high energy
solution. As much as 1/4 stick might be required, but I would work up to
it gradually starting with low charges (or even compressed air). In any
case, make sure the dry well is FULL up to the top to get maximum shock
effect and safety.
--
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