Wool Boreal Shirt (and other Bushcraft-inspired stuff)...

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Montclair BobbyB

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Nov 27, 2013, 9:39:40 PM11/27/13
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With Winter fast approaching, I've been looking to invest in some long-term durable apparel (made from natural materials like wool or cotton) to make my outdoor experiences in the cold more enjoyable.  I have been formulating a layering strategy that will hopefully carry me from late Fall through early Spring.  One interesting piece of apparel I recently stumbled upon (and subsequently ordered) was the handmade Wool Boreal "Shirt" from Lester River Bushcraft, although it's more like an anorak than a shirt. Founder Jason Gustafson specializes in custom handmade knives and bushcraft gear.  "Bushcraft", to those unfamiliar with it is a general term with Australian roots referring to wilderness skills. From my internet searches, I'm seeing bushcraft gear showing up on hunting and survivalist websites (not surprisingly).  But like Ventile cotton, there seems to be a resurgence in the use of natural (vs man-made) materials for outdoor gear.  The Boreal Shirt is made from recycled wool blankets, and is warm, tough and versatile. There are several YouTube video reviews of this that really convinced me I need to be sporting a Boreal Shirt of my own.  I'm in the queue for the next batch that Jason is making, and I'm very excited.  I'm wondering if anyone else on the forum owns one of these (or something similar... there are other hand-crafted wool shirts/jackets/Mackinaws from bowhunters Fred Asbell (http://gfredasbell.com/) and Ron LaClair (http://www.shrewbows.com/index.html).  I'm ready to ditch my stinky UnderArmour in favor of wool underlayers.

Now I need a good windproof shell.  I wish I had another few hundred bucks to drop on a Ventile jacket, but I may instead opt for a waxed cotton anorak (Orvis makes a nice one).  Any ideas/recommendations that are not too costly?

BTW, the Boreal Shirt IS rather pricey, but considering how durable and warm it is, and that it's handmade in Duluth, MN, I say it's well worth the $250 price tag.  

Peace,
BB

Deacon Patrick

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Nov 27, 2013, 10:49:39 PM11/27/13
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BobbyB, on the links you shared, I 'm seeing the wool jackets for $60-$90, so I'm wondering what you're getting for $250. There's this too: http://duluthpack.com/home-cabin/clothing-accessories/mens/mens-jackets/wool-blanket-shirt.html (they also have canvas anaroks, mitts, etc).

I'm all for hearty wool and layering, that's what I do. It's the time of year when I'm always wearing my long john wool shirt and wool sweater. It's easy to go outside and be moving around in the sun, then come in (we keep our house cooler, upper 50's-low 60's) without putting anything else on, though I'll toss on my Filson's mackinaw if breezy or colder than 35 out or I won't be moving much.

Ventile is well worth saving up for. Delighted with my Hilltrek (Cotton Analogy), and some of their jackets come in very reasonably and have that anarok design. http://www.hilltrek.co.uk/acatalog/copy_of_Foinaven_Cotton_Analogy__Smock.html (I got the Liathach Extreme and love the better hood, waist cinch and other upgrades).

Personally, rather than spending more on a heavies wool option, I'd suggest layering with more wool and getting the cotton analogy sooner rather than later. The outer garnet is perfect year round for all kinds of conditions, and then you layer as needed underneath, making those layers less critical (unless you're going lightweight down) to spend more coin on.

I look forward to hearing what you find and decide and how it works for you.

With abandon,
Patrick

Montclair BobbyB

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Nov 28, 2013, 12:06:05 AM11/28/13
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Patrick:

My requirements may not be quite as demanding ... slightly milder climate and (admittedly) I'm more foul-weather averse... I'm OK with cold, but prefer to not venture too much in rainy and windy conditions... We get enough "nice, cold, calm days" in between.  If I had to choose only one garment I'd choose a tough wool jacket any day.
 
The wool jackets for $60-$90 from Fred Asbell look nice in the photos, but I gotta believe they're not quite built the same as the Boreal Shirt.  Three separate testimonies from seasoned field users of the Boreal Shirt rave about it as one of the best pieces of equipment they have ever owned, and from sleeping in it outside in cold weather to wearing it all season in the woods, it's built for warmth and durability. 

The Duluth Pack jacket looks nice, but add a pocket and the price (at $240) is at parity with the Boreal.  The Boreal looks more rugged, and is hand-stitched.  But I guess I'll have to wait to see if I made a good choice!

And yes, the Hilltrek jackets ARE really nice... I may have to liquidate assets (gee, that's a measure I typically reserve only for when I'm saving for a bike)...  

Peace, BB

Anne Paulson

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Nov 28, 2013, 2:36:32 AM11/28/13
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The Boreal Jacket looks like a quality garment: that heavy wool melton
is a long-lasting, warm fabric. It's felted, so it's heavy and
wind-resistant.

However, it is not hand-stitched. And you wouldn't want it to be: that
wool cries out to be machine stitched. Gorgeous looking fabric.

If you want to compare two different wool melton jackets on price,
make sure they both have the same weight of wool. A thinner wool will
obviously be cheaper.

>
> The Duluth Pack jacket looks nice, but add a pocket and the price (at $240)
> is at parity with the Boreal. The Boreal looks more rugged, and is
> hand-stitched.

--
-- Anne Paulson

It isn't a contest. Enjoy the ride.

Deacon Patrick

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Nov 28, 2013, 8:46:30 AM11/28/13
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Ahhhh, you're talking the Empire Boreal Shirt? You should be in excellent hands! I've debated that one, but decided on a feathered Friends hooded jacket when they went on sale a few days ago.

With abandon,
Patrick

Ron Mc

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Nov 28, 2013, 9:06:45 AM11/28/13
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BobbyB, I went through the exercise last year for a tincloth outer layer and ended up buying a very nice Italian-made lined field coat from sierratradingpost.  But as far as a good waxed cotton shell goes, the best I saw was the Filson all-season rain shell.  

Montclair BobbyB

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Nov 28, 2013, 9:31:51 AM11/28/13
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Thanks for the clarification, Anne... one reviewer raved about the quality of the stitching... I must have misunderstood.

Patrick, there are actually two very similar versions of this; the Empire version (which is an 80/20 blend) and the Lester River, which is 100% wool.  I believe both are actually stitched by Empire, though.
Ron, I agree the Filsons are beautiful, but the price approaches that of a Ventile jacket.  I may go minimalist and find myself a Swedish Army Snow Smock to dye and treat with Nikwax.  Gotta get back into sewing... 

Thanks.
BB 

Matthew J

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Nov 28, 2013, 9:57:20 AM11/28/13
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Empire has a design for a shorter Anorak which presumably will be better for cycling.  Was all set on getting one, but unfortunately Empire could not source canvas this year so will not have any to sell.

Deacon Patrick

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Nov 28, 2013, 9:59:29 AM11/28/13
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I saw that. I'd absolutely want the 100% wool version and don't grasp why Empire went for the blend. That doesn't seem like them.

With abandon,
Patrick

Liesl

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Dec 5, 2013, 6:15:54 PM12/5/13
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Hi all,
(yes, I am alive but have been impossibly busy)

I have several Empire Canvas items and they are *the bomb*.  Well made, well designed, good materials, local (to me)/minnesota-made by a one-man-in-his-garage (Kevin) shop.  I have an all-wool bushshirt, a campcoat, an anorak, and an oil-cloth early version of the permafrost parka.  Okay; it's clear I love Empire the way I love Riv.  The garment I use the most for bicycling is the campcoat.  good from about 20 degrees to 50 degrees depending on what I'm wearing underneath.  With a Filson vest under it, it's pretty good down to 20; maybe 15.  This is without a windshirt and with a 10 mile winter commute.  Kevin's stuff is just outstanding.  Plus he is a really good guy.

yours,
Liesl

Montclair BobbyB

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Dec 5, 2013, 9:22:19 PM12/5/13
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Glad to hear, Liesl.  That campcoat is beautiful.  I just got notice from Jason Gustafson at Lester River that my Boreal Shirt is ready (wow, quicker than expected!!). Shame they couldn't get fabric this season... bummer.

BB 

Montclair BobbyB

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Dec 12, 2013, 10:18:58 PM12/12/13
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My Boreal Shirt arrived today. WOW... What a quality, heavy duty garment... I'm totally blown away. Worth every penny... Walked to the pub; temps in the teens... Wore it under a waxed cotton field jacket...extremely warm and toasty.  Literally a warm blanket, made into an anorak... Love it!!!

This will last a LONG time... Will wholeheartedly recommend this.  BB

On Thursday, November 28, 2013 9:06:45 AM UTC-5, Ron Mc wrote:oo

Liesl

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Dec 13, 2013, 10:30:12 AM12/13/13
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BobbyB!  Most excellent report on your Boreal Shirt.  Yes, you will love it for a long time.  The leather lacing is a fun place to adorn your shirt; I assume yours is laced "upsidedown" as mine was/is meaning that the ends of the laces come out of the bottom eyelets rather than the top eyelets.  Once I got used to it, this is a great one-handed design .  Anyway, you an use a hearty trade bead with a big hole as a slider or make a decorative knot.  A lanyard knot works really nicely and looks swellegant and sailorly.

http://www.animatedknots.com/lanyard/index.php?Categ=decorative&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animatedknots.com

http://www.craftingspot.com/artistic_knots.html

Montclair BobbyB

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Dec 13, 2013, 4:06:49 PM12/13/13
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Wow, you must have one of the early versions... Mine has bungee and cord-locks, which although are practical and useful, I would prefer non-stretch paracord with perhaps a decorative slide/lock.

But hey, if I'm gonna become a serious survivalist/mountain man I guess I best learn my knots... Thanks!!!

BB

Evan

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Dec 18, 2013, 7:32:20 PM12/18/13
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Hey Liesl: On your recommendation I just looked up Empire Wool & Canvas Company. Am impressed! Love these two paragraphs on their warranty page:

"We use natural fibers and hides, so we're going to incorporate their personality into our work. You'll see range marks on our leather, odd yarns in our canvas, and wild hairs in our wool because we won't waste good material. Forget the Technicolor perfection you've come to expect from stores. Our stuff was absorbing sunlight and chewing plants in the last decade, not locked in prehistoric limbo.  


Nature has its quirks. So do we. We're not afraid to run over a seam twice, and work a scar into the back of a mitten thumb if it doesn't affect the durability. Every hand crafted garment we make is flawed in some way, and no two will be identical. If we ever stitch something that is cosmetically perfect, it was not intentional."

Frank Brose

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Dec 18, 2013, 8:34:54 PM12/18/13
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Great. Now I'll spend more money on sheep. I should buy a sheep farm given the amount of wool I have in my closet. Seriously. Glad to hear you like it. I'm a huge fan of wool and have been for alot of years and will probably add one of these to my stash. You'll never see a sheep trying to get out of the rain, cold or sun.

Liesl

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Dec 18, 2013, 9:04:18 PM12/18/13
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Ha!  Kevin's disclaimers are pretty exaggerated in my experience. Between Erin and me, we are a walking billboard for Empire Canvas and all has been expertly done.  My Campcoats are the all time fav's.  I have the snap version and Erin has a custom pull-over version of the many-pocketed one (made from a very scratchy Italian army blanket so greatly reduced price).  We are each jealous of the other's while loving the one we have.  And the Empire True North Boots top Steger Mukluks for all-around utility and equal warmth.  (I should add that I am also a walking billboard for Riv, but y'all already knew that!)

Montclair BobbyB

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Dec 18, 2013, 10:52:17 PM12/18/13
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What are these imperfections he speaks of??? My Boreal Shirt is perfect.  (Maybe I should return it... it lacks the flaws he promised)
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