Help - can't ride for the lack of a bolt
Jay
my new to me Sam together and take it for a test ride.
It's almost done but I can't ride it because the bike shop failed to
include the bolt that keeps the seat post from slipping in to the
frame.
Do I just walk into a local shop and ask for a generic seat post
binder bolt? 5mm? 6mm? What do I tell them?
I could bring the bike down there but the logistics of that are more
than I care to deal with at the moment. I would ride it, but ... you
see the problem.
I'm sure this is an easy fix and I am hoping to avoid a wild goose
chase for the wrong bolt.
Anybody?
PATRICK MOORE
IIRC, all more recent Riv seatpost clusters are designed for a
standard allen bolt and hex nut instead of the harder to find seatpost
binder bolt proper -- and no, don't ask for one of these at your local
True Value because they'll just look at you with mouths agape. It's a
standard metric size that I can't now remember. But in fact, you can
jury rig it by using any bolt that will go thru the hole and taking
care of any issues with bolt head and nut not fitting the countersunk
places by simply putting big washers at each end -- not pretty but
should be perfectly functional and get you out the door.
What I often do in such cases is to get a selection of what seem to be
approximate sizes at the hw store; one usually fits and I have the
remainders left in my nuts 'n' bolts bins for other such emergencies
when they arise.
Curious: do y'all save left over and miscellaneous nuts, bolts,
washers and screws? I have separate drawers for each in a little caddy
and save them up as I find them.
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Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, NM
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CycloFiend
I recalled that the seatlug design was noted in the Atlantis flyer.. but
Hmmm.... I thought this said the size of the bolt -
http://cyclofiend.com/rbw/atlantis/atlflyer/06.html
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Seth Vidal
> on 8/6/11 2:48 AM, Jay at robi...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> I've been up since 4 after a 16 hour flight yesterday, excited to put
>> my new to me Sam together and take it for a test ride.
>>
>> It's almost done but I can't ride it because the bike shop failed to
>> include the bolt that keeps the seat post from slipping in to the
>> frame.
>>
>> Do I just walk into a local shop and ask for a generic seat post
>> binder bolt? 5mm? 6mm? What do I tell them?
>>
>> I could bring the bike down there but the logistics of that are more
>> than I care to deal with at the moment. I would ride it, but ... you
>> see the problem.
>>
>> I'm sure this is an easy fix and I am hoping to avoid a wild goose
>> chase for the wrong bolt.
>>
>> Anybody?
>
> I recalled that the seatlug design was noted in the Atlantis flyer.. but
> Hmmm.... I thought this said the size of the bolt -
>
> http://cyclofiend.com/rbw/atlantis/atlflyer/06.html
>
I'm pretty sure it is an M6 20mm long bolt.
Most ace hardware should have them.
-sv
Horace
Peter Pesce
Why yes, I do save any extra hardware I get. A small organizer / caddy has 4,5,6 mm nuts bolts washers etc, plus leather washers, cable end ferrules, fender hardware, headset spacers, valve stem caps, and so on.
I find I'm in there almost every day making a deposit or withdrawal of one sort or another!
Pete
Jay
minute ride on my old bike and some blueberry pancakes for me to
figure out for myself what Patrick suggested - take any bolt that
fits, a couple of washers and vioala ... my 1st ride on a Rivendell :)
Actually my 1st time riding a decent road bike of any kind.
Impressions so far are:
1. This is a very high quality bike - much better than anything else
I've riden, and
2. Drop bars are going to take some getting used to. I've got them
nice and high, but there are a lot of adjustments, decisions, etc.
I ride almost every day and have for years. With this set up I feel I
a total newbie. So many new to me things - drop bars, bar end shfters,
Rivenell sizing.
I've got a 6 day solo tour planned starting the week after next. Hope
I've got some of the kinks worked out by then.
Thanks for all the help.
PATRICK MOORE
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Philip Williamson
hoods to the perfect height. They affect each other, but riding around
with untaped bars and a tool usually works. Cable routing can affect
your grip, especially with cotton tape. I just retaped some bars,
replacing cork tape with cotton, and find that I really want to move
the cable, because the nice 'shelf' has become a sharp edge under the
new tape.
Philip
Philip Williamson
www.biketinker.com