Waxed Canvas Bag Instructions

[Robert F. Harrison]

For the DIY set I found these instructions on waxing canvas bags that might be useful. Disclaimer, I've not done this myself so I can't claim this works or is even a good idea. I imagine it might be useful for some though. 

The article is really about camera bags, but it's not such a far stretch to other canvas bags one might have floating around.

http://www.diyphotography.net/spoil-your-camera-with-a-diy-waxed-camera-bag

Aloha,

Bob

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Robert Harrison

Honolulu, HI
rfhar...@gmail.com
statrix.com

[Ryan Ray]

Supposedly this works on canvas Toms and Vans too. 

- Ryan

[Ron Mc]

I waxed my gray Sackvilles and they came out great.  Trick is don't apply too much and use the blow drier.  

[Cyclofiend Jim]

Filson Wax application to Keven's Bag -

http://vimeo.com/8025058

From a while ago - have used the same technique on my Country Bag and when I cleaned and resurfaced my Banana Bag.

- Jim / cyclofiend.com

"Yes it's silly.  It's supposed to be silly."

[Michael]

How often should saddle bags be treated?

[Scot Brooks]

Is the idea that the waxing gives it a bit more durability? I was considering doing this to my Sackville bags but I put it off because I've got 4 of them, including the massive Saddlesack Large. As it turned out, even frequent and extended exposure to the Seattle rain has yet to infiltrate the interior of any of them, even without additional waxing. 

[Cyclofiend Jim]

The basic canvas bags that I've seen (back to the Baggins and Sackville bags) all have enough of a base treatment to keep things waterproof.  I had gone to the double-seal system when I got my Country Bag as my older Banana Bag (which saw a lot of trail/mixed-terrain miles with no rear fender in place) had gotten really, really grungy.  When I started cleaning it off, it seemed like the mud and dirt had gotten into the fabric.  From my experience in owning Filson/Barbour garments, mud and dirt clean off better from a slightly thicker coating.  I had gotten a bit of seepage of rain at the seams, so wanted to make sure that since I was using the bag for longer rides and possibly randos that it was well sealed.

Retreating is really necessary only when you start having seepage - usually evident at the seams first, depending on the bag's construction. With my jacket that sees the most usage, that's maybe every 2 - 3 years, but there are a lot more moving parts and seams exposed directly to the rain than with most seat/saddlebags.

- Jim

cyclofiend.com

[ascpgh]

The exposure to sunlight evaporates the OEM wax treatment over time as well. Areas of frequent flex do seem to go first though. Most of the products made of waxed canvas are sewn with pre-treated fabric; how they look so tidy when new and sort of messy when you re-proof them. I use Martexin refinishing compound, which is also the brand of their waxed canvas fabrics used by many makers.

http://www.fairfieldtextile.com/fabrics.html 

Scroll down to reach the re-proofing product, appreciate the information between and consider whether or not you have access to a sewing machine able to run a seam in this stuff and might knock out a bag or two of your own!

Andy Cheatham

Pittsburgh, PA

 

[PATRICK MOORE]

Does anyone know how well a spray-on water-proofer like Scotchguard would substitute for re-wax treatment of saddlebags? It would surely be much less work and mess. My only experience with Scotchguard is to have saturated the cushions on my dining chairs with it when my daughter was small; they are still clean.

 

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Patrick Moore, Albuquerque, NM, USA
For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW
http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
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