Fit Issues with my Rivendell

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Michael

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Jan 18, 2013, 2:36:36 AM1/18/13
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My lower back has been killing me for the last month or so from riding.
 
I think it may be that the bars are up too high (~6cm above saddle). The view is great though.
 
I have been using the Just Ride PBH-11=Seat Height fit method, and the bars as high as one likes method.
I have shoved the Brooks saddle all the way back Riv-style, which my knees love, and my hands love, as this makes my weight further back and not on my hands.
Now I just have to work out the low back issue and I will be good to go again.
I am gonna try the RivReader fist full-'a-seatpost method with bars 1.5-2cm above saddle and see if that feels better. I'm gonna keep the saddle all the way back for the above-mentioned reasons.
 
It is odd, that yes, it is the most comfortable bike I have ever ridden, like riding a cushy sedan, but one part of my body always seems to complain no matter how I set it up. But I'll get there, I hope. I really love this bike.

IanA

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Jan 18, 2013, 5:22:17 AM1/18/13
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I think the fistful of seatpost is more a general measure of a good frame size, rather than a measurement for saddle height.  I'd suggest only adjusting one parameter at a time until you get dialed in.  Just try the bars at a different height for now and see how that feels.  

Kelly

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Jan 18, 2013, 10:10:22 AM1/18/13
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I'm not claiming this is the cause of your back pain, rather I am relating to a time on a new bike where I had lower back pain.     What I slammed the saddle all the way back set the height and figured I was good.   All three contact points lined up except for seat in relation to the crank.    Seems It was further back.  So I slid the saddle forward on the rails to where it was the same as on other bikes... and the back pain went away.      It may be something to check. 

Kelly

Ron Mc

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Jan 18, 2013, 10:22:22 AM1/18/13
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agree on the one at a time adjustment process.  
The last thing I tried to adjust was angle on the bar, and found at the end of a painful 20-mi ride (the pain didn't show up until the end) that it was better where I started.  


On Friday, January 18, 2013 1:36:36 AM UTC-6, Michael wrote:

robert zeidler

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Jan 18, 2013, 1:14:56 PM1/18/13
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try bars -1cm below saddle height
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Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery

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Jan 18, 2013, 1:21:02 PM1/18/13
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Here's an unconventional idea. Is this the bike that has the 50/34 crank? If the 50 is too steep, and you end up pedaling the 34 a lot, you may be pedaling gears that are too easy. Pedaling a taller gear will offset much of the weight that is on your back, arms, butt, etc. Of course, if the 50 kills your knees, that's no good. But switching to a 44t or 46t ring may help you get more comfortable without moving your seatpost, bars, stem. I experimented with this years ago on a fixed gear, and the effect of gearing on comfort was dramatic.

Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery

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Jan 18, 2013, 1:21:43 PM1/18/13
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Post a pic please.

Steven Frederick

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Jan 18, 2013, 2:33:16 PM1/18/13
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Having the seat too far back was the source of my lower backpain FWIW...

Steve

On Fri, Jan 18, 2013 at 2:36 AM, Michael <john1...@gmail.com> wrote:

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pb

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Jan 18, 2013, 3:29:07 PM1/18/13
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How can "shove the saddle all the way back" and "fist full of post" be helpful fitting guides for a given individual on a given bike?  Fist full of post is a frame sizing guide, not a saddle adjustment tool, and shove the saddle all the way back can't be more than a starting point for a personalized fit, just as the evil and maligned "KOPS" is nothing but a generalized starting point for a personalized fit.
 
Sounds to me like you've gotta get some knowledgeable help getting your saddle height and fore-aft set up -- for you.  Then you can work on the bars.
 
As an aside -- I have stems of four or five different lengths lying around, and every so often I'll change out a stem to try to make a little tweak to an established set-up.  When I'm in lousy shape, I ride with my 7-degree stem flipped up; when I'm fitter, it gets turned over for less bar height.  I'll also tweak saddle position pretty regularly - I carry tools with me to do that.  But I'm down to saddle adjustments of 2-3 mm at a time.  Yes, I can feel those changes.  
 
pb

Peter Morgano

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Jan 18, 2013, 3:34:03 PM1/18/13
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I think that some of us are "princess and the pea" type riders and some of us arent. I can also tell 2-3mm in seatpost difference, so much that I use a nice permanent marker to mark out where i left it and what date so I can go back and see how it feels (I use a pencil for the stem), some of us are that anal.  If you are one of those people go to the bike shop and have a fitting done, only you have to also be one of those forceful people who wont let them cram you into some uncomfortable position while telling you how comfortable it will "get".  Remember you are paying for a service so just keep tweaking it until you get it right. Winter is a good time for this stuff since most shops are pretty slow and would welcome some side business. I use my fluid trainer and block at home to do adjustments, while my wife looks puzzlingly as I move the seat and stem around incrementally.

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René Sterental

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Jan 18, 2013, 3:42:25 PM1/18/13
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I can feel less than 2mm on seat post height, but what I've found has the most effect on my lower back hurting or not, on any given setup, is the tilt do the saddle. We're talking ANAL here; a quarter turn on one of the seat post screws is sometimes too much. I'd suggest you try that first if you're otherwise comfortable. It'll change the weight distribution on your back. 

René  


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Michael

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Jan 19, 2013, 12:47:23 AM1/19/13
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@JimThill:
 
 a pic of the cranks or the whole bike? 

rw1911

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Jan 19, 2013, 1:14:23 AM1/19/13
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This is counter-intuitive to the assumption that higher bars equal  a "better" more comfortable position. I kept raising my bars in search of comfort. I usually ride on the brake hoods and after many miles found the drops more comfortable so I lowered the bars to 1-2cm below the saddle and haven't looked back.  I don't have an explanation other than if your saddle is in the right pace, I think it relates to torso/arm/top tube length and the angle in which your arms meet the bars in your preferred position. (Which also affects the shoulders, neck and back)

Each person has different proportions and individual preferences. If going up isn't working, try going down.

Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery

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Jan 19, 2013, 9:10:07 AM1/19/13
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I'd like to see the whole bike.

Michael

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Jan 19, 2013, 9:54:42 AM1/19/13
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@Jim:
 
Here are some. No closeups of drivetrain, though.
 
This is the only shot I have handy that has the drivetrain shown on it:
 
It is an Ultegra front derailer and crankset.
Ultegra 10-speed rear derailer.

Don

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Jan 19, 2013, 10:14:29 AM1/19/13
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I've had the same experience. I now ride with the handlebar about 1 to 2 centimeters below the saddle height. That business of raising the handlebar as high as you can get them doesn't work for me.

Cyclofiend Jim

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Jan 19, 2013, 2:04:34 PM1/19/13
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I think it's important to realize that any change can equal a really painful result.  Quick and dramatic changes - such as going from 3-4 cm below to 6 above (not saying that was what happened here, just trying to make the point) - change the stresses on the body dramatically and suddenly.  This can be especially problematic if you ride a fair amount already, because, even though uncomfortable, your body is used to a certain position.  I know I'm much more sensitive to changes and switching between differently set up bikes when my regular mileage is higher.

My experience has been that smaller, regular movements towards a desired position is much safer on the body. 

Backs and necks are funny things, and after pretty seriously tweaking mine playing high school football, I've always been careful with position changes.  I am very lucky to have been blessed with the genetics of good flexibility.  But, in my high mileage years, while also mostly working at a desk, I was definitely taking a "set" - rounding shoulders and back, while my head easily would look up (yeah, I'm a 1 - 3 cm below the bars kinda body/guy).  I was lucky enough to connect with an excellent yoga instructor and after 3+ years, have really undone a lot of that collapsing tendency.  She also has a strong core focus, and I was again slapped upside the head with the knowledge that a strong core (especially stomach muscles which have NO stress in most cycling) alleviates about 95% of any low back issues. 

The body is a lazy device, and will only make itself just as strong as it needs to be, and only in the directions in which you ask it to be.

..ok....time to ride!

- Jim / cyclofiend.com

Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery

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Jan 19, 2013, 5:43:06 PM1/19/13
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To my eyeball, it seems like that bar you're using has a lot of reach. Maybe a shorter reach bar would be better?

I still think switching to a more usable 44-46t big ring will eliminate lots of problems.

Jim M.

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Jan 19, 2013, 8:26:14 PM1/19/13
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Diagnosing fit by looking at a picture of a riderless bike seems silly to me. If you really want some help, we need at least a picture of you on the bike, with both feet on the pedals.

jim m
wc ca

Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery

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Jan 19, 2013, 10:25:59 PM1/19/13
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A riderless bike is actually full of information. Admittedly, seeing the rider on the bike is another useful data point.

Michael

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Jan 20, 2013, 1:47:36 AM1/20/13
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More datum:
 
Hoods 1 small.jpg

Michael

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Jan 20, 2013, 1:49:58 AM1/20/13
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Tops 2 small.jpg

Michael

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Jan 20, 2013, 1:50:54 AM1/20/13
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Drops:
Drops 3 small.jpg

charlie

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Jan 20, 2013, 2:25:47 AM1/20/13
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I'd lower the bar to level with the saddle height (measure from the ground up). Your back angle seems higher than 45 degrees when on the hoods. Your saddle height and fore/aft position seems okay. You would have to be the judge however. I've moved my saddle from where it was before to forward by 1 cm and I noticed a difference. Try lowering the bars first and see what you experience.  Just make sure you change the tilt of the saddle along with it. When moving the bars down, tilt down.... if moving the bars up, tilt the saddle up. 

charlie

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Jan 20, 2013, 2:27:16 AM1/20/13
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Measure bar height to the hoods......at the point where you place you hands normally.

Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery

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Jan 20, 2013, 9:42:43 AM1/20/13
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It LOOKS pretty good. It can't hurt to try lowering the bars, which is an easy, cheap fix if it works.

Also, it never hurts (well, maybe a little) to strengthen the core muscles with sit-ups, planks, cobras, etc. Riding a bike doesn't really do much for these important muscle groups, and it sounds like these are the muscles that are getting sore.

Jeremy Till

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Jan 20, 2013, 11:53:38 AM1/20/13
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It should be pointed out in all of this that the angle of the back isn't the only variable that will be affected by moving the seat forward.  Seat position also determines how well your are balanced on the bicycle between your butt and your hands, and the reason that GP suggests starting with the saddle all the way back on the rails is because it gives you the greatest chance of starting out in a position where your butt is taking most of the weight and your hands/arms are largely unloaded.  Now, if that position is well behind your balance point, i.e. the point at which you will start tipping forward and needing your arms to support your torso, then you can move the saddle forward slightly and not change overall balance.  But if you are just at that balance point now, curing lower back pain through moving the saddle forward is a bad idea IMHO since it means you will just be shifting the stress to another part of your body--namely your hands and arms.  Better to reduce back angle by reducing the reach. 

I'd agree with Jim T's suggestions on this one.  Try lowering the bars first since it's the cheapest and easiest change to make,  and sometimes our body is asking for more reach, not less. .  Do it slowly and incrementally, measuring your position before and after so you can revert to the original if the new one doesn't work out. 

But if lowering the bars makes it worse, I'd also agree that shorter reach bars might be a good idea.  Noodles are great bars but they're big in terms of reach and drop.  Try something more compact like the Soma Hwy One.   

charlie

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Jan 20, 2013, 12:36:16 PM1/20/13
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Rather than shorter reach bars a shorter stem will so the same thing....just do some measurement comparisons. You can also just hold on the curve of the bar and if that feels better maybe a 1-2 cmm shorter stem for a similar position on the hoods. One thing you don't want to do is limit your options. I did this by using a 20mm shorter stem and realized that I actually needed a longer one with my bars being so high on my bike. My solution, I went back to a 90mm stem and lowered the bars. In the photo your back appears more than 50 degrees when on the hoods, if this is comfy for you don't change but I'll almost bet a lower bar height, maybe and inch lower, will make a big difference for your back.

Jim Mather

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Jan 20, 2013, 6:37:53 PM1/20/13
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Based on this picture, I would suggest dropping your seat about a
centimeter. Tight hamstrings can cause lower back pain when your leg
extends too far.

On Sat, Jan 19, 2013 at 10:49 PM, Michael <john1...@gmail.com> wrote:
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Michael

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Jan 21, 2013, 4:16:47 PM1/21/13
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There may be something to what you are saying about the hamstrings as I noticed the back problem starting when it started to get cold here in Maryland this year and my hamstrings seem to be tighter these days (I do some light regular stretching).
 
 
I have the bars down to 1.75cm above saddle height now, and am starting to feel falling forward and getting limited viewing pleasure as the head is down more.
 
I am just really frustrated because there are 10 ways to adjust a bike, and so many combos, and it is hard to solve this problem. Though the ride yesterday was better with bars at 1.75 above saddle.

Rex Kerr

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Jan 21, 2013, 4:31:20 PM1/21/13
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Adding more fuel to your fire, your saddle looks too far back to me.  I originally set up my AHH with the saddle pushed back due to the advice I read, then spent 6 months wondering why I didn't enjoy riding it as much as my other bikes -- I just couldn't get comfortable.  Once I pushed it forward again I was MUCH happier.

Joe K

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Jan 21, 2013, 4:56:33 PM1/21/13
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I'm far from an expert on fit -- I probably shouldn't even be
responding here -- but under your body, that bike just looks small to
me. Are you getting decent leg extension with the pedal at 6 o'clock?

Joe

Peter Morgano

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Jan 21, 2013, 5:00:12 PM1/21/13
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I didnt want to the the first "Big Riv" guy but the bike does look a bit small.

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Michael

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Jan 21, 2013, 6:19:09 PM1/21/13
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According to the Rivendell Bleriot sizing chart in the Bleriot Flyer, as posted on the cyclofiend site, I fall smack dab into the 55 size.
I was surprised how large I look on it  whe I first saw the pics. I had never seen myself on it before and always thought it would look bigger under me.
 
However; I have gone from an 8cm stem to 7cm because the reach felt too far even when I had the saddle in the mid section with the 8cm stem.
 
BTW I'll be glad to trade if someone wants a 55 and has a 57, or a  56 Ram? 

Michael

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Jan 21, 2013, 6:20:38 PM1/21/13
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By the way:
I really want to thank everybody for helping me on this. I really appreciate it!
Kep it coming if you have any ideas. I need help.

Manuel Acosta

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Jan 21, 2013, 8:57:52 PM1/21/13
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The beauty of the human body...
General rule of thumb is that the human body will adapt. Granted riding a bike is pretty unnatural when it comes to human movement. But like in anything that you do with your body... if you do it long enough and constant enough it will change according to the activity that you are doing. Sometimes for the better and sometimes for worse.  I think that general DISCOMFORT on a bike is natural. After a while the body will adapt and you'll get use to it. But whenever pain is involved change in body position is recommended if not expected.
But sometimes we need to understand that bike related pain isn't always related to bike related things.
I would suggest looking at strengthening your low back and stretching out your core. 
The lower back is by far the hardest and least worked out part on the human body. 
Theres tons of body weight back exercises online. 
Keep working on that bike fit. 

Kelly

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Jan 21, 2013, 9:12:10 PM1/21/13
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Michael,

It doesn't matter if it's a bicycle or a computer or you name it.   Take the advice given and put together a plan of troubleshooting.  

Before buying or trading for a new frame in most cases if your contact points are the same the difference when you are looking at 2 cm is not going to effect handling as much as looks.   So get the bike right and enjoy. 

So you've said that the bike is really comfortable... and people have said to check stem, seat to crank relationship, saddle height and some other things I would ignore.. but hey what can I say. 

Make a list and make changes one at a time.   NO do not accept that a bike hurts you .. it shouldn't .. well unless you just haven't ridden for a long time.. then start out at 5 mile rides and work up... anyway... I digress.

So first question ...   Has it ever worked.   IE:  do you have a bike that doesn't hurt?   If so are the contact point identical?  Another way is .. do you have a known good reference to work from? 

Then for me I would go for the easy changes first....     how I would do it doesn't make it right fyi :)   

1. change the seat height .. go too low then up till it feels good to you.. not what some chart says. 
2. if the saddle is all the way back .. move it forward a tad.. then a tad more or too much.. we are after back pain.. not reach at the moment.  if the forward saddle fixes back pain then add a longer stem later. 
3. next 
4 next 

It was mentioned to make one change at a time...    please trust your body and your thoughts more than any of us.   Charts are starting points not working points.  Even if it's not perfect, if you can change the problem you have found the beginning of the solution. 

Good luck

Kelly

charlie

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Jan 21, 2013, 11:34:53 PM1/21/13
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Michael, Did you change the tilt of the saddle to match the height change of your bars? Keep in mind however that a saddle tipping too far down at the nose will put too much weight on your hands and make you feel as though you are slipping forward.
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